The Definitive 79-80 Desmog Guide

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The red hose is still on there. Do I just find a vacuum source for the other side? Or will this act like a vacuum leak on the motor?
 
With the OE application, the dizzy is not hooked up to the vacuum I think you are talking about. It connects to the air filter housing. So when the engine is running it does create a slight vacuum but it is not like the 20 inHg the carb produces. I am not 100% on this, but it's the way I understand it. I also no nothing about the weber setup. From what I've read it is an inferior setup. Not being able to get fresh filtered air through your dizzy may be one of the reasons why.
 
The definitive desmog is much easier: don't bother. There is nothing to be gained, there is value to be lost and it is a lot of work as detailed above.

Can you be a little more specific, Pin Head? Do you think it is best to remove more or not any at all? What do you think is wrong with this desmog? I have a 1980 model and would like to desmog it. I have already had to remove the air pump and rail due to failure and rust. When you say the definitive desmog, are you referring to Jim's FJ60 pdf guide? I am really researching this so I can get my truck running the best it can.
 
What I mean is that there is nothing significant to be gained, except possibly you don't have to fix this stuff when it is broken. I have messed around with removing and disabling this stuff and there was no change in performance or fuel economy. The common misconception is that it costs in terms of performance and fuel economy. This was true for the first 5 years of smog control, but by the late 70s it was also about meeting corporate average fuel economy standards. If fact, some of the stuff on there is to get better fuel economy, such as lean burning mixture during high speed cruising and EGR to reduce pumping losses. It does reduce smog related emissions if that is important to you. Taking it off is pretty much the same as running around with it broken and it is a huge amount of work. The results of desmogging are not optimal. You still have the wrong carb jetting and distributor advance curves for running without the electronic control. After desmogging, they are worth less because they are not original and there are fewer places you can sell them.

No gain for a lot of work and less money is a lose, lose, lose deal.
 
When you desmog. I'll take your smog stuff. :)
 
Thanks for clarifying your answer Pin Head. I am still very conflicted on a full desmog, but I did not want to pay to replace the air pump and rail. That leaves me somewhere between stock and desmog so I have to make it work the best I can without those parts.

Also, I enjoyed your videos on rebuilding the Aisan Carb (I am assuming they are your videos on YouTube.). I plan on rebuilding my carb soon and your videos are very helpful.
 
Thanks for your hard work in researching and photographing the procedures. Good Job!!!
 
Hi @Pin_Head :)

& : MUD SMOG CZAR / @Spike Strip Sir .....:D



- i
do not have the air horn tag ,

- but my maroon round decal matches / same ....
- is the 21100-61025


- FEDERAL

- or

- California


Thanks !

,

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- tech. reference only below , not my carb

1708666886805.jpeg



.

1708667031816.jpeg
 
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