The Apocalypse for my 80

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campoj2

campoj2

Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Threads
77
Messages
1,152
Location
The Land of Frank Rizzo
Well, lightning has struck twice. If had read my previous thread about my engine install, you would know what was going on with my 80.

As luck would have it, the second engine, with 87k, died before it left the parking lot of the garage that was fixing it. Yes, that's right, died...well sort of. The #3 piston's spark plug got the bottom bent and now it makes alot of noise and doesn't run very smooth. It was 20 hours to put in that motor...I don't think I will be putting in another.

I am either going to part out the truck or sell it whole, either way I am going to list the parts HERE first, I don't feel like shipping a tailgate to Oregon, if you know what I mean.

What I would like to do is sell the truck whole. ($3,000.)

If you bought the truck whole and this is what you would get:

This is also my proposed part out list.

1994 Green FJ80 with 220 on the clock
Front and Rear Locked axles (110K), not installed
Locked Front AxleLocked Rear AxleFront Wiring Harness (NIB)CDL SwitchDiff Lock SwitchECURadiatorWater Pump (Zero Miles)Lex Center ConsoleDoor PanelsSecond Row Leather SeatsFloor Mats (NIB)Floor MatsRear Door PanelsSteering Column CoverDoors TailgateMud FlapsMirrorsTail LightsAntennaRadioSpeakers (Pioneer)OEM Grill (NIB)OEM Roof Rack (NIB)Ome ShocksOME SpringsWheelsManualsFSM/Transmission/Wiring)Door SwitchesTail Light GuardsCBWheel Bearings (4) OEM NIB Toyota
 
I've been popping zantac like Pezz!

Wayne is right, this truck is ready to go, the paint is acceptable is there is very little corrosion, if you have 3K and some time it will be worth it. It does run.
 
94 Landcruiser, the driver's side door has rust along the bottom edge that runs the length of the door. The panel and the whole door will run you about $50. The switch itself $20-$25????
 
A more ledgible listing of parts that the truck has:

Fully fuctional sunroof
Locked Front and Rear Axles 110K (not installed)
NIB Front wiring harnes for locker
CDL Switch (installed)
Locker ECU (installed)
Diff Switch (installed)
New Water Pump (installed on New Bad Motor)
Newer Radiator
Newer Power Steering Cooler
Lexus Wood Center Console (not installed
4 Lexus Leather Door Panels (not installed)
4 Switches (wooden) for door panels
NIB Front and Rear Floor mats (LC)
Used Lexus Floor Mats
Lexus 2nd Row Seats (mint & not installed)
New Steering Column Cover (installed)
Tail Light Guards (OK) not installed
CB (not installed)
Speakers All Pioneer (installed)
NIB OEM Toyota Grill (not installed)
NIB OEM Toyota Roof Rack (not installed) try finding one these!
OME Shocks less than 8k (not installed
OME 852 Springs fronts only (not installed)
Manuals (Factory Service, Transmission and Wiring)
All New door switches (installed)
4 NIB OEM Toyota Main Wheel Bearings (not installed)
Standard FJ 80 wheels (they are rough) but straight as an arrow
Michelin tires with 85% or better tread

That's about it, you know what locking axles will run you, if you buy the truck, I have some one that will take the old axles for $300. Your cost now is $2700.
I forgot to mention that everything works in the truck. All electrical & mechanicals.

John
 
Location is Media, Delaware County.

The 1st motor had a bad HG and turned the motor oil into chocolate milk, if that wasn't bad enough, the bearings started making some noise too, so we (mechanics and myself) decided that it was not a good idea to rebuild that motor and that we should get another motor. I found one with 89k and had it shipped in. Install took about 20 hours and before it left the lot it died, or at least the #3 piston died.

They are going to pull the head off this week and I will know what EXACTLY IS WRONG with this motor. I may be selling it whole, parting it out, or keeping it. I'm thinking it's 4th and 99 right now.

MORE TO FOLLOW!

John
 
One more project car and I better be able to sleep in it.
 
That's a shame, definetly more than 3K in parts. I inderstadn your frustrated, but I love my cruiser, I'd be tough for me to ditch it.

I hate to see a post like this but, I'd be interested in the upper rear hatch and the fuel filler door.

bob
 
Dang, man, that really sucks . . . .

But if the vultures are circling, I might be interested in the hood if it's in good shape, both metal- and paint-wise.
 
Lugboot,
Hood is OK at best, there's a pretty good chip on the leading edge, but for $75 I don't think you can go wrong! I will also include the shocks, they are still tight.

Bob,
Upper hatch is in EXCELLENT SHAPE. Try to find someone that will take the lower half and I will cut you guys a pretty damn good deal!

Ruger280,
If I had a roof top tent I would throw it in and you could sleep on it!
 
Bob,
I will have a better prognosis of the situation here shortly. Do you need any doors or interior stuff?
 
campoj2 said:
Lugboot,
Hood is OK at best, there's a pretty good chip on the leading edge, but for $75 I don't think you can go wrong! I will also include the shocks, they are still tight.

Bob,
Upper hatch is in EXCELLENT SHAPE. Try to find someone that will take the lower half and I will cut you guys a pretty damn good deal!
Click to expand...

Is it just a chip in the paint and no rust? If so, it still might be better than mine. I have a decent rust spot on the leading edge.

Bob--I might be interested in the rear tail gate, too . .. since mine is warped. Haven't tried to straighten it yet.

Brett
 
Lugboot said:
Is it just a chip in the paint and no rust? If so, it still might be better than mine. I have a decent rust spot on the leading edge.

Bob--I might be interested in the rear tail gate, too . .. since mine is warped. Haven't tried to straighten it yet.

Brett
Click to expand...

Brett, I only need the upper, the lower is yours if you need it. My upper is still very good but has developed a few bubbles under the emblem. I'm anal about rust. The truck hundreds of dents and scratches but that area ticks me off....

Let me know maybe we can work something out with transporting them.

I'm in Pa 18707


campoj2,

I could use the front floor mats if they are brown. Speakers and covers maybe ..

Don't forget I want the fuel door and hinge...

I'd love to get your axles but I really have no real need for them just cool factor for my DD.




Just to float it out there. I have a 71 that could be road ready with new TRE's I would concider swapping rig for rig and I'd likely regret it for the rest of my life. soft top and extras.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/norville//right.jpg
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/norville//front.jpg
 
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Norville YOUR KILLING ME!!!!!!!!!!! VERY TEMPTED-send some more pictures (when you get a chance) to campoj2@verizon.net


Floor mats are new and I have all 5, I think, there's the 2 up front, the 2 in the back and then the 1 long one. I have the carpet for the rear area as well.

My goal, if this rig heads to the junk yard, is to make sure that there is not 1 usable part that will end up in the crusher. There will be good deals to be had, the axles, however, will not be "given" away. They are immaculate and if I were single I would park them in the living room next to the Harley, oh wait, I got rid of that along with the Vette when I got married!??
 
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