The 1987 4Runner SR5

[thetoyotaman]

If I can pull this off I am going to make this kind of a 85/87 hybrid restomod using parts I’ve been collecting.
Found a steering box with only a little over 60k miles on it.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Finished pulling the front bumper. Had to put solvent on the bolt collar, Vice grips on it and then an impact to break it free.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Went to warm up the engine for an oil change and it stalled. I think the fuel pump may have given up. Will have to troubleshoot.

 

[Mudder]

IIRC 79-80 SFA don’t have a lower truss, 82-83 have a lower truss that stops 1” short of the spring perch while 84-85 goes all the way. Yellow does stand for 4.56 but it’s also inaccurate. Best to check by spinning and counting.

If you do go with a solid axle just do a high steer swap. I did a 2.5” OME lift on my 84 with factory steering and it was scary around corners, went to hi steer and I wouldn’t go back. The solid axle frames have a higher frame arch up front and you can make it work with a flat pitman arm and 2.5” of lift.

 

[ferg]

IIRC 79-80 SFA don’t have a lower truss, 82-83 have a lower truss that stops 1” short of the spring perch while 84-85 goes all the way. Yellow does stand for 4.56 but it’s also inaccurate. Best to check by spinning and counting.

If you do go with a solid axle just do a high steer swap. I did a 2.5” OME lift on my 84 with factory steering and it was scary around corners, went to hi steer and I wouldn’t go back. The solid axle frames have a higher frame arch up front and you can make it work with a flat pitman arm and 2.5” of lift.

Only the '79. The '80 was factory trussed.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Went to warm up the engine for an oil change and it stalled. I think the fuel pump may have given up. Will have to troubleshoot.

Besides the connection differences would a 80/100 series fuel pump work if I need one since I have one on the shelf? I tried to research flow rates, etc., and found conflicting information.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Tested voltage at the fuel pump connector and no voltage with key on.

 

[pappy]

Tested voltage at the fuel pump connector and no voltage with key on.

Correct. Did you short B+ and FP in the diag box next to the battery? The fuel pump doesn't run unless air is moving through the AFM. Shorting FP and B+ will bypass the AFM and the COR and put power directly to the pump. Don't drive it like this. It's a safety feature to kill the pump should you get in a wreck.

Pull the pump out and check the negative wire to the pump. Mine recently broke and left me disabled in the middle of Death Valley. Easy field fix, once I figured it out.

Besides the connection differences would a 80/100 series fuel pump work if I need one since I have one on the shelf? I tried to research flow rates, etc., and found conflicting information.

Yes, and no, the fuel pump connection on your truck is a pair of studs and ring terminals. The 80/100 will have a plug connector. The pump hanger can be modified to use the newer pump. If the 80/100 pump is the same as a Gen3 4R it's also a physically smaller pump. Same flow and pressure, but tiny compared to the one you have. The filter screen is also different, IIRC.

I'll be adapting the filter bracket on my 1985 next week for the newer pump.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Played around with it again tonight and with the clutch out starting I could hear the fuel pump running so I think it only engages in the start position instead of on??? I think what happened is more gas than I realized pumped out of the return line that was leaking and since it's on an angle ran dry. How do I figure out if I have the hoses in the correct position that clamp on the pump housing?

 

[thetoyotaman]

Assuming our turbo model is the same I think I got the gas hoses on correctly. They actually cross under the car.
Changed the oil and filter with some protect and restore with a Toyota oil filter. Discovered the PCV valve grommet was bad so replaced it and checked the valve which seems good and put a little brake cleaner through it under vacuum for good measure.
The idle is around 1100 so I went to adjust it and discovered the air bleed screw was turned all the way in. Not sure what’s going on there.
The brake pedal will slowly go to the floor if you give it any pressure so I’m guessing the master cylinder is bad. Not sure if the brake booster is original, but I’ll post a picture of a sticker I saw on top of it.