Tesla style 16" Android Radio install/information (3 Viewers)

[Torres Braga]

Dear Mate could you please send me the Link of the Unit, thank you

Dear Mates, for those interested in the link, u can access it below

16" vertical screen android nav radio for Toyota Land Cruiser 2008​

16" Vertical Screen Android Navi Radio for Toyota Land Cruiser 2008 - 2015

This radio can be installed in any 2008-2015 Toyota Land Cruiser. Stunning, feature-rich. Plug and Play. Retain most OEM features. WiFi, Bluetooth, MirrorLink.

phoenixautomotiveinc.com

 

[Tractable]

Hi tlcruiserman,
I got the similar unit but 12.1 in. It has android 9 and most of the features are same as in 17 in.
There is obd connector came with it but it does not help to show rpm /speed. You mentioned there is a port to connect original canbus connector, can you pl. show pic of the connector?
Pl. See the video of my issue.

 

[ekolpack]

I currently have my 08 TLC torn apart for upgrades/repairs/mods. Eventually I'd like to add one of these Tesla style head units with just about every feature, including 360 degree bird's eye view cams, but I'm not quite there yet on the budget. My question, while everything is torn apart (ie. all interior trim panels, headliner, carpet, etc) is there any pre-emptive wiring I should run to make things easier when it comes time to install this head unit + accessories? I may also add a secondary rear media player/screen to replace the OEM one, which I'm told becomes effectively useless after going the Android/Tesla route. I'm thinking something like this: Amazon product ASIN B08K2NF5ZN
Thanks!

 

[grinchy]

I currently have my 08 TLC torn apart for upgrades/repairs/mods. Eventually I'd like to add one of these Tesla style head units with just about every feature, including 360 degree bird's eye view cams, but I'm not quite there yet on the budget. My question, while everything is torn apart (ie. all interior trim panels, headliner, carpet, etc) is there any pre-emptive wiring I should run to make things easier when it comes time to install this head unit + accessories? I may also add a secondary rear media player/screen to replace the OEM one, which I'm told becomes effectively useless after going the Android/Tesla route. I'm thinking something like this: Amazon product ASIN B08K2NF5ZN
Thanks!

I suggest you put in rear electrical. If nothing else, it’ll enable the subwoofer amp and sub upgrade (money well spent ) but can also use it for rear power for fridge lights and accessories

 

[ekolpack]

I suggest you put in rear electrical. If nothing else, it’ll enable the subwoofer amp and sub upgrade (money well spent ) but can also use it for rear power for fridge lights and accessories

Hey Grinchy, thanks once again for the help! I ran 12awg to the back for the sub. As for a dual battery + rear power setup, I haven't decided if I wanna do a deep cycle battery in the engine compartment, or a portable/removable lithium thing in the back. Either way I'll need to run high amperage power from front to back (either off Redarc BCDC to rear lithium or off deep cycle battery to rear power distro). I have some 1/0 wire that's probably long enough to run inside the cab through the front firewall. 1/0AWG @ about 20ft would be perfect for a 1000W inverter, a small 12V fridge, some LED's and a couple USB ports which is more than I'd ever realistically need. Total draw would be about 110-120A with everything running at full capacity. 1/0AWG @ 20ft should theoretically handle about 150A @ 12v with 3% voltage drop.

I guess the question is, do I run it inside the cab behind trim panels, or under the truck zip-tied to the frame? Inside the cab is a more direct route, so shorter cable run....and I feel like it'd be less exposed to damage. Hmmmm, yep, that's probably the way to go.

Anything else I should run? LED bars on the roof are usually run up through the windshield wiper shroud and directly up to the roof, correct? So no need for any internal wiring there? Might do a couple component video cables for rear cameras and/or DVR or future security stuff. Can't really think of anything else right now, but I feel like the second I put it all back together something will hit me

 

[ekolpack]

Hey Grinchy, thanks once again for the help! I ran 12awg to the back for the sub. As for a dual battery + rear power setup, I haven't decided if I wanna do a deep cycle battery in the engine compartment, or a portable/removable lithium thing in the back. Either way I'll need to run high amperage power from front to back (either off Redarc BCDC to rear lithium or off deep cycle battery to rear power distro). I have some 1/0 wire that's probably long enough to run inside the cab through the front firewall. 1/0AWG @ about 20ft would be perfect for a 1000W inverter, a small 12V fridge, some LED's and a couple USB ports which is more than I'd ever realistically need. Total draw would be about 110-120A with everything running at full capacity. 1/0AWG @ 20ft should theoretically handle about 150A @ 12v with 3% voltage drop.

I guess the question is, do I run it inside the cab behind trim panels, or under the truck zip-tied to the frame? Inside the cab is a more direct route, so shorter cable run....and I feel like it'd be less exposed to damage. Hmmmm, yep, that's probably the way to go.

Anything else I should run? LED bars on the roof are usually run up through the windshield wiper shroud and directly up to the roof, correct? So no need for any internal wiring there? Might do a couple component video cables for rear cameras and/or DVR or future security stuff. Can't really think of anything else right now, but I feel like the second I put it all back together something will hit me

Aw man I just thought of a cool idea (pun intended). I could put the "cool box" on a SPDT rocker switch with one position being normal wiring and the other running it off the second battery for a super low powered 12v fridge for camping. I'd just need to remember to turn it back to normal mode when not camping, so as not to drain aux battery. Probably won't need wiring in the back for that though....unless I end up going with a portable lithium back there.....hmmmmmm. Now that I think of it, if I'm going with a portable lithium in back, I'd also need a separate power wire running for any switches up front that'd run off the aux battery, like LED light bars. So yeah, probably a good idea to run some decent gauge "aux power" wires from front to back, even if they don't end up getting used now....or ever.

 

[grinchy]

If you have the hatch apart put a power wire in there for a rear ‘dash’ cam and for a light that will face down when the hatch is open.

 

[grinchy]

There is a path under the car and there are access rubbers in the floor pan at the rear corners. I’ve got a 1/2” AN hose under there fir the compressor, and a 5/8” rubber hose for the evap relo; the Elocker wiring and the evap wiring extension.
Big risk is heat from the exhaust. You can stay behind the shielding most of the way, but there are a few inches at the back of the firewall that aren’t optimal.

 

[ekolpack]

If you have the hatch apart put a power wire in there for a rear ‘dash’ cam and for a light that will face down when the hatch is open.

Okay, yup, wire for rear cam/DVR for sure. Also, yeah, I noticed there's no hatch light.....kinda weird considering there's a super useful tailgate on a very off-road/camping/utility focus vehicle, but nothing to illuminate the back hatch. I'll probably throw a small LED strip back there.

As for high-amp wiring running to the back, you're suggesting going under the vehicle as opposed to inside the cab under the little floor wells?

 

[grinchy]

Okay, yup, wire for rear cam/DVR for sure. Also, yeah, I noticed there's no hatch light.....kinda weird considering there's a super useful tailgate on a very off-road/camping/utility focus vehicle, but nothing to illuminate the back hatch. I'll probably throw a small LED strip back there.

As for high-amp wiring running to the back, you're suggesting going under the vehicle as opposed to inside the cab under the little floor wells?

its probably better f you already have the trim out to go inside. but there is a physical limit to what will fit in the inside channels. More space in the right (US Passenger) channel than the left.

 

[ekolpack]

its probably better f you already have the trim out to go inside. but there is a physical limit to what will fit in the inside channels. More space in the right (US Passenger) channel than the left.

Haha, roger that! And yep, indeed I see there's much more track space on the right side! Perfecto! Thanks man! You're a wealth of knowledge!

 

[ranger474]

Today is one year mark of using Tesla style radio, zero issues.

 

[greynolds]

Did you lose access to any factory features such as any heating controls or setting configuration (things like setting which doors unlock when you unlock the drivers door)? I realize the results on an older 200 series may differ from a newer 200 series because they’ve changed how some of these things work over the years.

 

[ranger474]

The console that controls vehicle configuration is there, but inactive, so I set my settings via keyfob, instructions are in the owner's manual. All HVAC controls are 100% operational and controls both from the unit or buttons (temp settings).

 

[JLH]

The console that controls vehicle configuration is there, but inactive, so I set my settings via keyfob, instructions are in the owner's manual. All HVAC controls are 100% operational and controls both from the unit or buttons (temp settings).

Is that the 16" version? What year is your LC? I've got a 16" phoenix and am trying to match connectors up.

Do you remember which, if any OEM connectors were abandoned? Looks like the OEM GPS antenna connector might be one that isn't used.

 

[JLH]

Well, I've got the 16" installed and working except for the cameras. The unit switches view and shows the direction bar but I get a "No Signal" on the display. Is there a connector I'm missing or is there something else I need. I've been waiting of a couple days to hear from phoenix tech support.

Here's what connectors I could match from the "high configuration" harness. The brown connector is the dual USB and the white is "air key jack".
Not very many connections which I why i' curious if I'm missing a connection for the camera video.

The cover on the wifi antenna fell off and is nowhere to be found.

Anyone know what "The control box" controls?

 

[grinchy]

I think control box is the CANBUS interpreter, so likely the climate interface is the main item, but could be doing the hazards and clock too.

*I have no direct experience with this, just conjecture*

 

[JLH]

Climate is working perfectly, including the manual temp controls. If I can get the cameras working it's looking like it might be a really good upgrade

 

[ekolpack]

Climate is working perfectly, including the manual temp controls. If I can get the cameras working it's looking like it might be a really good upgrade

Going purely off of memory, but I'm pretty sure I saw an install video for one of these where the video connections were standard RCA component connections coming from a breakout cable. Did you get the 360 deg cam kit? Is it possible a cable/harness is missing? Did you RTFM? Any clues there?

 

[JLH]

It came with a harness that includes RCA connectors, but I believe those are for the 08-12(?) that had the climate controls not integrated into the display unit. There's not an RCA connector anywhere on the radio/cd/nav display. I've researched the service manual and the camera circuit pinouts don't match what is claimed for a truck with a manufacture date of 11/13. Those locations on the connectors are empty so I'm pretty much wedged as far as tshooting this myself.

The call from phoenix is now 3 days overdue...This thing may be going back.