Tech Questions

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I re-read that warranty thing....It makes sense now.

If you break a shaft, blow the bell, or the cage, etc... but dont have the hub gear, you are ok. But if another failure causes damage, that isnt covered. Like when you grenade a trunion and make bearing soup in the bell and the bells get all scarred, Bobby wont warranty that. Or a bent housing, bending a shaft....no warranty.

And yeah that has always been the case.

It sounded like you were saying if the longs them selvs fail....and you dont have the hub gear, then you are SOL.
 
Maybe a stupid question, but sure wont be my first, With the 30 spline longs do you have to change the side gears in the third member or is the 30 spline just on the birf end?

Mark
 
Maybe a stupid question, but sure wont be my first, With the 30 spline longs do you have to change the side gears in the third member or is the 30 spline just on the birf end?

Mark

No sir. the side gears are 30 spline already...as are the hub gears. The "30 spline" count is refering to upgrading the birf to 30 from 27. The only mod you likely have to make is to clearence the bell a little bit to fit the longs bells...which are a little larger.

...Oh and try not let your family see you go balls deep into the bell.....they are sexy!!
 
Cool thats what I figured but wanted to be sure. I've decided that the 30 set will be the way to go, with the hub gear just to make it as bullet proof as possible. My only concern is do you pop for another long for a trail spare, or carry a regular birf with both shafts as a spare, or just go on their rep and not bring a spare?
Tony you have a PM.
The weather down here is nasty so pull-a-part is out this week. So going to study up on cross over steering set ups, and u-joints for the steering shaft. Richard gave me some 3/4" D shaped rod for the shaft, I just need to see if I can find it.

Mark
 
Cool thats what I figured but wanted to be sure. I've decided that the 30 set will be the way to go, with the hub gear just to make it as bullet proof as possible. My only concern is do you pop for another long for a trail spare, or carry a regular birf with both shafts as a spare, or just go on their rep and not bring a spare?
Tony you have a PM.
The weather down here is nasty so pull-a-part is out this week. So going to study up on cross over steering set ups, and u-joints for the steering shaft. Richard gave me some 3/4" D shaped rod for the shaft, I just need to see if I can find it.

Mark

No real need for a spare. I dont think you could break one if you tried. Ive never broke one in 5 years, Joe never broke one, Todd either..... Woody might have...but relatively speaking he has 20 years worth of wheeling on his.
 
The no spare was what I was thinking But just asking. Will probably put what I take out in the box of spares that rides in the pickup. They may keep somebody wheeling, just in case.

Mark
 
I can give you advice of what to definitely avoid when doing your "budget" crossover steering. It's actually possible to make it work with the minitruck tie-rod flipped, a jeep cherokee pitman and draglink. There are plenty of guys running around with that set-up, too. That was my initial set-up that only lasted two days out in Tierra Del Sol. The ends weren't anywhere near stout enough. I ended up re-doing it all with 80 series rod ends and making a new draglink. You're kinda wasting your time until you go SOA, though. If you do make the leap, then you can pick up either Marlin's, All-Poo's or (dare I say it?) Trail Gear's forged arms to go with your minitruck knuckles. Until you do go SOA you'll be fighting with clearance issues on the pitman arm and spring.
 
no need for a spare, unless you are running sticky 39's and don't like reverse...my Long's survived a busted front pinion...

...and if it were me, when you really upgrade, do the 6-stud knuckles and be done with it...mine were installed 2 years ago and haven't seen a torque wrench...4x4labs histeer and a combo West Texas and PSC hydro assist...

if you do the Scout box, port it...first...Matt from West Texas offroad did mine...ports on the frame-side...
 
Joe found some suspension seats for cheap that were intended for a VW. They are pretty sweet, maybe he will chime in.


EMPI RaceTrim


Seats are super comfy, they are a closeout, EMPI stopped making seats and this guy bought a bunch of them up. I want to say a pair retailed for nearly $600 orriginaly. They are definately worth the money, im trying to find something to put mine in.
 
Cool thats what I figured but wanted to be sure. I've decided that the 30 set will be the way to go, with the hub gear just to make it as bullet proof as possible. My only concern is do you pop for another long for a trail spare, or carry a regular birf with both shafts as a spare, or just go on their rep and not bring a spare?
Tony you have a PM.
The weather down here is nasty so pull-a-part is out this week. So going to study up on cross over steering set ups, and u-joints for the steering shaft. Richard gave me some 3/4" D shaped rod for the shaft, I just need to see if I can find it.

Mark

Don't even carry a spare. I broke two ring and pinions up front, a set of ARP hub studs, and a set of ARP knuckle studs, all on the same set I wheeled for a few years on 38.5" boggers and then almost 3 years on 42" IROK's. If you get to the point where you break a 30 spline long, im pretty sure that busted birf is the least of your problems.
 
Will probably put what I take out in the box of spares that rides in the pickup. They may keep somebody wheeling, just in case.

Mark

Then you will have to also carry a short side and long side inner with you.
 
tony, when i lock my hubs in my runner wants to jerk from side to side. this is only when in 4wd. if i put tcase in 2wd its fine or if hubs arent locked in. tire pressure is equal. any ideas?
 
tony, when i lock my hubs in my runner wants to jerk from side to side. this is only when in 4wd. if i put tcase in 2wd its fine or if hubs arent locked in. tire pressure is equal. any ideas?

Your drivers headlight is out of alignment.
 
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ok, i just went out and realigned both headlights and my hella driving lights....still pulls back and forth while in 4wd..... :)
 
WOW....talk about your rookie thread HI-Jack.....WOW


That could be a CV shaft jerkin. could be drive shaft binding...Might be t-case jumpin in & out of gear (doubt it) What have you checked? Have you put it up in the air & ran it? Have you put it in the air & spun the front wheels with hubs locked & in 2wd to see how smooth it goes?

Better yet, bring it to my garage & lets have a look.
Give me a call Nate & we can check it out.
 
Oh & John.....Steffy says your fix for everything is to adjust the T.V. cable.....

So you might want to suggest that next time.
 
Oh & John.....Steffy says your fix for everything is to adjust the T.V. cable.....

:rolleyes:

C'mon Tony....Of all people, I'm sure YOU can prolly figure out how that conversation REALLY went.

:flipoff2:
 
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