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I thought I posted this already but I guess I didn't.

The hot water valve sends coolant through the throttle body and increases idle speed at lower temperatures and decreases it as the coolant heats up.


as well as warm the air entering the engine:)
 
how bad would it be if I eliminated it?
 
I guess it gets eliminated in the swap. It is external on the '85 TB and internal on the '94. I am doing some web wrenching as I wait on new injector seals. I'll have it figured out when I start doing the swap. Right now, I am in that stage of worrying that I will have to reverse my work.

This probably isn't worth it, but I might as well do it since I have the upper plenum off anyway and all of the parts to do it. I just wish I could find all of my newer injectors. I've only been able to find 1 of four. Looks to me like the newer type will defuse fuel particles better (2 small jets vs 1 large on the older style).
 
so i was running mean green today , and i turned on the heater . was happy that the heater worked , and then noticed the temp guage , was allmost in the red , so i shiznited and turned it off checked the water all good turned the heater off and ran it to see , and it went back to normal , wtf ? i did notice when i took of the radiator cap that i could hearwater flowing in the top hose like it was vapor locked
 
You should have a thermostat with a bypass valve. If you don't, it will not open all the way sometimes when you have the heater running. If you wait, sometimes it will pop open right as it is getting close to the red. You can either get the right thermostat (search around for a part number), or you can drill a ~1/4" hole in the body of the thermostat like I did.
 
if thermo dosn`t have a vent I do the same more like 1/8" though
 
thats what it did after it was right at the red and just poped open and the temp droped fast!, i think i will drill a hole in the thermastat
can i just take it out compleatly ?
 
I wouldn't do that....either never warm up or not stay in one place long enough to make a difference.....yeah, 1/8" sounds better, it's been awhile!
 
if n it don`t warm up -------it will sludge up
 
can anyone get me the measurements of the front spring hanger?

basically i need the length from one side to the other and the width where the springs go.
 
can anyone get me the measurements of the front spring hanger?

basically i need the length from one side to the other and the width where the springs go.

after I get off work tonight I can get those for you. send me your email address also. later
 
I've used these guys stuff before and like the quality

SAS Spring Hanger kit

The silver truck has a marlincrawler hanger on it. The 4Runner has datin hanger on it.

I'd go with whatever you said :lol: :) you've done it enough to know the in's and out's and what works. The club's SAS Guru :cool:
 
well i would go for the total kit but...i already got really good deal on the frame tubes and jigs.....and the shackles i punch out at my dads shop for $0.....so i can see myself paying almost $100 for some 2x3 tubing with plates on the end.

if it wasnt for that then i would agree on the kit.
 
My starting problem was definitely due to lack of pressure in the fuel rail caused by leak-off. I got everything back together tonight with new injector seals and she fired up instantly on the first try. It's amazing what I little leak can do on these EFI systems.

Afterthought - If you are messing with this, don't for get to hook your 5th injector back up before hitting the key. Otherwise, that AFM will open, the pump with run, and everything will get a healthy serving of gasoline!
 
well i would go for the total kit but...i already got really good deal on the frame tubes and jigs.....and the shackles i punch out at my dads shop for $0.....so i can see myself paying almost $100 for some 2x3 tubing with plates on the end.

if it wasnt for that then i would agree on the kit.

$61 at Datin Fab:
Toyota Front Spring Hanger
 

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