TCM Code 63 explanation plz

[cc93cruiser]

Was able to pull up a code from the TCM as my transmission (1993 cruiser A442F, OBD1 )has been acting kinda funny at times when driving down the freeway. 2-3 times now, the torque converter has disengaged for no apparent reason (increase of approx 200 rpms).
So today, I decided to try and see if I can pull a code from the TCM and see if something came up. I didn't try this at first because I never saw the o/d light in combination meter blink on/off while the TC disengaged which would indicate a fault code. Followed the procedure on the FSM connecting the Tt & E1 terminals on the diagnostic port under the hood and sat and watched the o/d light blink, code 63.
Was reading the diagnostic on the FSM and code 63 reads as follow:
"Severed No.2 solenoid or short circuit- severed wire harness or short circuit." Then there is a HINT on bottom of page it states, : If codes 62,63,64, or 65 appear, there is an electrical malfunction in the solenoid. Causes due to mechanical failure, such as a stuck valve, will not appear."
My questions, so does this mean it is an electrical problem with the solenoid no.2? Where would the electrical be located for this solenoid or rest of them? Does all this mean that just simply replacing the solenoid might not fix/clear the code?

 

[cc93cruiser]

I am starting to think that this is going to be a electrical problem rather than a mechanical problem with one of the solenoids because the problem is only intermediate and the transmission shifts fine almost all of the time (if it was a stuck solenoid or mechanical problem, problem would be there the whole time).
Years ago, I had 2 or 3 corroded pins in the electrical plug that connects the Neutral safety switch (which is located on transmission) to the main wiring harness (I believe it's the engine harness). Instead of fixing the problem correctly and putting new pins in the terminal plug, I ghetto rigged/cut & spliced all wires (approx. 10 of them) and all was good for years. Now, I am starting get this intermediate problem and I am starting to think that one of the wires I cut and spliced together is starting to make a faulty contact.. Any thought? I will post a pic of the electrical connection from the NSS to main wiring harness I cut...

 

[cc93cruiser]

Plug that cut off...Would a bad contact with one of these wires be causing problems like the ones I am having?

 

[bloc]

Possibly, yes. Mine had water in it when I checked. Addressing that did fix the multiple gear indicator lights on the dash.. but didn't fix the odd shifting issue from Neutral or Park. That has stayed the same for a year now.

 

[baldilocks]

It is very probably that you have a failing solenoid. My 93 needed two solenoids last year. This problem crops up more and more as our trucks get older. I have a thread covering my misadventures and vehicle maintenance. I don't know how to paste in a link with my phone (or desk top for that matter) but the thread title is "Reconstruction after rollover and other stuff I do to my 93" IIRC. In there you will find solenoid part numbers and some photos. Be advised that the first posting of part numbers is incorrect so keep reading if you decide to check out the thread. Should be in the first few pages.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Possibly, yes. Mine had water in it when I checked. Addressing that did fix the multiple gear indicator lights on the dash.. but didn't fix the odd shifting issue from Neutral or Park. That has stayed the same for a year now.

Mine had water/coolant in it too from leaking PHH for god knows how long.. I tried to switch out my NSS and broke like 3 pins from that connecter just from unplugging the damn thing.. If I do replace the solenoid, I might as replace all 4 at the same time? I will read your thread baldilocks once I get back home.. Thanks for the input guys..

 

[cc93cruiser]

So, does the A440 and the A442F share the same solenoids being as to them being almost identical? I have a buddy with a spare A440 out of a 92 fj80.. Also, I'm still a bit confused as far as the order of the solenoids. If I need to replace number 2 solenoid, what's the part number and which gets replaced when I drop the oil pan?

 

[cc93cruiser]

Top of pic is towards front of cruiser......So replace the 3rd from the right?

 

[baldilocks]

What you have pointed out is correct. The A440 has not solenoids as it is all hydraulically controlled.

 

[cc93cruiser]

What you have pointed out is correct. The A440 has not solenoids as it is all hydraulically controlled.

Ok thanks for the input.. Pic was stolen from your thread..ha.. So in your thread you mentioned that no. 1 and no. 2 solenoids are identical.. Are they the same part numbers and can be swapped?

 

[baldilocks]

I can't remember. There should be part numbers listed in the thread though.

 

[baldilocks]

Ok thanks for the input.. Pic was stolen from your thread..ha.. So in your thread you mentioned that no. 1 and no. 2 solenoids are identical.. Are they the same part numbers and can be swapped?

The info you are seeking should be in post #57 of my thread. You could simply go to the dealership to order solenoids but they would costs over 3x as much as the website I mentioned in the thread.

 

[slow95z]

Where to buy transmission solenoids?

 

[cc93cruiser]

Check out Transmissionpartsus.com. The Aisin Warner AW450-43LE is the same transmission. The solenoids are about $50 each and the same exact part you will buy at the dealership. S1 and S2- D49422A. Timing Solenoid-D49425A.

Cool, so solenoid 1 & 2 are the same solenoids even though I think the part numbers from Mr. T are different.. The lock up and timing solenoids are the different ones then. These solenoids from transmissionspartsus.com are Aisin brand?

 

[cc93cruiser]

Man you guys a f@@king awesome! I think I know what I have to do.. I am going to spend some time and correctly solder and seal the connection from the NSS and Main harness that I butchered up years ago and replace the solenoid #2 and clear code # 63 from TCM by pulling fuse.. I hope this will take care of my rare but annoying problem I have with my TC unlocking..

 

[baldilocks]

The shift 1 and 2 solenoids appeared to be identical when I was looking at them. Good luck and glad to help. Help here is like mash potatoes on the dinner table, we pass it around.

 

[cc93cruiser]

For reference from 1993 FSM, yes I was bored!

 

[bloc]

Some good info in this thread.. so I'll add mine.

All of this started after I put a 97 body onto my 94 frame/engine/transmission/axles and had to adapt the wiring. I noticed that when I put the transmission into "drive" multiple lights would come on the indicator in the gauge cluster, and the truck wouldn't pull away as if it were in first gear. I spent a LOT of time double checking my wiring, assuming the harness massaging I did to make the 97 dash/body work with my earlier transmission was the problem but it turned out to be water in the round connector by the starter. This connector doesn't have the same level of waterproofing as almost everything else exposed to elements on our trucks.

Get water out, clean terminals, use dielectric grease.. lights on the dash got better, but it still shifted weird. By this point I start putting some miles on it and get a better idea of what's happening.

If the truck is in park for any significant length of time.. running or not.. when shifting to Drive, the transmission stays in 3rd gear (apparently). You can pull away from a stop but it is very sluggish, feels like things are slipping.. and once you hit about 15mph it downshifts into second (apparently) and acts normal. Same story if transmission sits in Neutral for any length of time. When it is acting odd.. if you go to L (1st gear) directly, it'll go right to 1st gear and shift manually as it should.

All of the above can be avoided by shifting to reverse first.. BUT.. you MUST roll backward at least about 6 feet.. then you can shift into Drive and it'll act normal. Anything less than bout 6 feet.. it goes straight to 3rd as above. Going to Park or Neutral for more than a few seconds brings back the above behavior.

I assumed it was a shift solenoid issue. Ordered only one (my mistake) and installed.. I can't remember which position, but it was whichever made the most sense based on the logic tables in the FSM.. and the problem persists. No idea whether it would have been fixed if I did 1 AND 2.

Either way as mentioned it doesn't seem to be getting worse. Once it kicks into drive as normal, everything about the transmission seems appropriate. So I'm not too worried on getting it tip-top as I'm planning on doing a vortec swap in the next few months.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Some good info in this thread.. so I'll add mine.

All of this started after I put a 97 body onto my 94 frame/engine/transmission/axles and had to adapt the wiring. I noticed that when I put the transmission into "drive" multiple lights would come on the indicator in the gauge cluster, and the truck wouldn't pull away as if it were in first gear. I spent a LOT of time double checking my wiring, assuming the harness massaging I did to make the 97 dash/body work with my earlier transmission was the problem but it turned out to be water in the round connector by the starter. This connector doesn't have the same level of waterproofing as almost everything else exposed to elements on our trucks.

Get water out, clean terminals, use dielectric grease.. lights on the dash got better, but it still shifted weird. By this point I start putting some miles on it and get a better idea of what's happening.

If the truck is in park for any significant length of time.. running or not.. when shifting to Drive, the transmission stays in 3rd gear (apparently). You can pull away from a stop but it is very sluggish, feels like things are slipping.. and once you hit about 15mph it downshifts into second (apparently) and acts normal. Same story if transmission sits in Neutral for any length of time. When it is acting odd.. if you go to L (1st gear) directly, it'll go right to 1st gear and shift manually as it should.

All of the above can be avoided by shifting to reverse first.. BUT.. you MUST roll backward at least about 6 feet.. then you can shift into Drive and it'll act normal. Anything less than bout 6 feet.. it goes straight to 3rd as above. Going to Park or Neutral for more than a few seconds brings back the above behavior.

I assumed it was a shift solenoid issue. Ordered only one (my mistake) and installed.. I can't remember which position, but it was whichever made the most sense based on the logic tables in the FSM.. and the problem persists. No idea whether it would have been fixed if I did 1 AND 2.

Either way as mentioned it doesn't seem to be getting worse. Once it kicks into drive as normal, everything about the transmission seems appropriate. So I'm not too worried on getting it tip-top as I'm planning on doing a vortec swap in the next few months.

Wow, your tranny has way more symptoms than mine.. Mine has just unlocked the converter a couple times in the last month (although I don't drive rig too often) and I was freakin out bout this..After reading all your guys' wonderful threads and hitting the FSM, if my transmission had all these problems, I would def. replace ALL the solenoids.. But looks like you got your mind set on a heart transplant. Good Luck..

 

[jcrock]

This is great info. Baldilocks, cc93cruzer, could you post a link to the thread where this is discussed. I'm gonna dive in and replace the solenoids as well, exact same problem, and I hear they are pricey. Any tips on replacement procedure anyone?