tailgate junction block toast

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radio shack strip

found this on the Radio Shack website!
8-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips; Model: 274-670
Catalog #: 274-670

from the radio shack website;
This 8-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strip lets you access wiring without disturbing the circuit. Barriers help prevent short circuits. For hobby projects and security alarm hookups. Base is 7/8" wide, 13/32" high. 15-amp, 1100 Vrms. For wire size 16 AWG and smaller.
Price 2.49$ :grinpimp:
Looks a lot like the one Nat installed on his pig but this one is rated for 15 amps
:hhmm:wondering if that is strong enough.......any thoughts?...the price is great :)........... just don't want to fry my wiring when I place it under a load!

Lou
 
here is a picture of my fried terminal strip...........same place as Inge's:frown: any one know the load rating on the original terminal strip?; those are some pretty hefty wires to the tailgate motor, just would hate to screw up the rear wiring harness with a lightweight terminal strip! TIA:cheers:

Lou
IMG_2166 conection strip fj55.webp
 
there is a similar terminal strip used in the early fj40...located on the front fenders for lighting up front...still available from toyota...cost about $16.00 delivered to my door from molle toyota in kansas city

osagecruiser
 
osagecruiser said:
there is a similar terminal strip used in the early fj40...located on the front fenders for lighting up front...still available from toyota...cost about $16.00 delivered to my door from molle toyota in kansas city

osagecruiser
Click to expand...

How similar. I know that they had wiring fuse blocks rather than the rubber fuse blocks like later ones. Have one infact. But while it would work fine likely, it is kind of wide. Or is there a narrow strip like N2666s

By the way Lou, went by Radio shack today. The have one that looks just like nats. They also, had some rate 15 and 20A 300v but also, 16 gauge wire. Then they also, had a "European style" white nylon (3.6mm mounting hole diameter) rated 30A 600V.


edit: Nats was an 8 postion 15A 110V (based on the picture) and there are 4 and 6 position "barrier strips" at the higher ratings. And $2.49/ $2.89
 
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Osage; do you have a part number or more info.........fj 40 year?
Eric, will try to get to Radio Shack next week..........just would prefer to go with something heavier than 15 amp.......the 30 amp sounds better, being lazy would prefer to use the original toy terminal conectors

Lou
 
n2666s said:
Osage; do you have a part number or more info.........fj 40 year?
Eric, will try to get to Radio Shack next week..........just would prefer to go with something heavier than 15 amp.......the 30 amp sounds better, being lazy would prefer to use the original toy terminal conectors

Lou
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Yeah, I picked one up...$2.48 and I can always use it somewhere if not there. I like the elegance of OEM and if 1 made it 30 years then a new one can make it another 30. I always shoot for OEM. Every thing on the fuses is 15 and 20 A with the wiper and heater motors on 20A so....But you do have that breaker and those fuses.
 
X2 on originality......entire weekend has been trying to undo and solve problems by POs removing or altering things..........see the thread on strong gasoline smell in the 40/55 tech section :( one problem I ran into last year was when the wiring was altered by PO installing a massive stereo system splicing it into the wiring harnes to the blower motor and when I turned it on it fried not only the harness but the motor :(

Lou
 
osagecruiser said:
nah i don't have a part number...sorry but it is called a wire block and it is for a 1968 fj40...one mounts to each of the front fenders in the engine compartment

osagecruiser
Click to expand...

Going to toyota tomorrow for my wifes camry...I'l try to remember to ask.
 
n2666s said:
any one know the load rating on the original terminal strip?; those are some pretty hefty wires to the tailgate motor, just would hate to screw up the rear wiring harness with a lightweight terminal strip! Lou
Click to expand...

i would guess not enough since they all fry right there;)
 
Just went to toyota today as well and they do not go back further than 69. If I had not been a space cadet I'd have said well, lets look at that.
 
My window is not going up now. Thought it was the switch on the side. My fuse block is snapped at the same spot. I love electrical problems!

I can reverse the power at the block and it will go up or down. This is not cool. I can't seem to solve this one. The power on the one wire can be found along the way, but not right at the end. The wires are like new. Bummer!
 
Does anyone have a wire diagram for the fuse block? I looked at one of the pictures and it apears that one of the white and black wires may be tied to a blue one...

I don't know if mine is wired correctly. Sure would be a good start ay! Mine has the two white and black wires on the same terminal as if they are grounds. Seemed correct but I have no clue...

goebs
 
Goebeler said:
Does anyone have a wire diagram for the fuse block? I looked at one of the pictures and it apears that one of the white and black wires may be tied to a blue one...

I don't know if mine is wired correctly. Sure would be a good start ay! Mine has the two white and black wires on the same terminal as if they are grounds. Seemed correct but I have no clue...

goebs
Click to expand...

colors match on each side, blue to blue, b/w to b/w, blue/black stripe to blue/black stripe and blue/white stripe to blue/white stripe.
 
Goebeler said:
My window is not going up now. Thought it was the switch on the side. My fuse block is snapped at the same spot. I love electrical problems!

I can reverse the power at the block and it will go up or down. This is not cool. I can't seem to solve this one. The power on the one wire can be found along the way, but not right at the end. The wires are like new. Bummer!
Click to expand...
Howdy! Don't forget the safety switch on the left side of the tailgate. On mine, the plastic stop died of old age, and so there was nothing for the plunger on the switch to hit when the gate was closed. I just wired by it. Now I can open the gate, and then run the window out to clean both sides of the glass at once. I do this about once every 5 - 10 years!! Just be careful you don't go too far, as there is nothing to stop the glass from going too far out. John
 
I rewired it color to color. Window still won't go up. When I wire the key switch it blows a fuse. This is new...
I can reverse the wires and it goes up. The motor isn't the problem. How does the door side switch work? Can I wire it so it is closed all the time?

Since the wiring is a bit beyond stock up at the firewall, I am guessing there may be something else that needs attention.

Goebs
 
Goebs, you are going to have to trace the wires..try hot wiring first......a 12 volt source + alligator clips or probe......start distal; unhook the motor side white black tracer wire and use it as the ground connected to the battery neg....use your pos alligator as a probe;disconnect the lower solid blue wire that I believe is the power source to the motor; touch it with the + alligator clip; it should move upwards; the next one up is the down control cable I believe; touch it with the + alligator after you disconnect it towards the motor side; once you have established what controls what then you have to backtrack towards your ignition/fuse box....seeing which wires are hot when you turn the switch........tedious but it will get you there; Shmuckster had a great write up on the rear pig window I believe on toyota trails several years ago; you might ask him to point out where it is and share it as I lost the file I had on it:frown:

HTH

Lou
 
Lou,
I will do it this eve. I tried to do it the other night and found power all the way til' the tailgate. Then when I tested it at the block, I had no power. Then I couldn't get power anywhere in the line. Mine is a problem with going up and it is in the blue with white wire. That's about all I know yet. It seems that the power is on and off when it feels like it. I might try to locate the start of the wire and run a spare all the way back and see if that is it. Otherwise I may have a hidden problem up under the dash or the switch. I tested the switch and it was fine.
I might just burn it to if I get any more frustrated! I am thinking who needs a window there anyways!!!!!

Goebs
 
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