Suspension opinions, I'm analyzing it to death... (1 Viewer)

[LL247]

Ok, I need help! Let's start with, yes I've used the search function and I've read every bit of info I can find. This thread is to ask the opinion of those more experienced than myself to help me pull the trigger on a suspension setup. I own a custom bike shop now, but was a Research & Development executive for a lot of years, then in finance after that. Bottom line, I'm a big bearded tattooed guy that WAY over-analyzes everything due to his corporate past.

Coming from a modified Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (lift, bumpers, winch, rack, ect) the bone stock 2016 LC I just purchased is too stock for me. My first plan is lift, wheels, tires...followed by sliders, rack, bumpers, ect. Here's the rub, I'm way past neck-deep in a competition custom bike I'm building at my shop. It's happily destroyed any of my extra mod funds for the immediate future. So where I would normally toss money at the first round of mods, I have to stay on a budget for a bit. I traded the Jeep because I don't do the hardcore off-roading I did when I was young and realized 95% of my driving is on road. I want comfort, but also the capability to hit the trails or explore when the mood calls for it. I personally like the way my stock LC rides and don't mind that it wallows down the road like a cruise ship. If I wasn't budgeting for the first round of mods, I'm pretty convinced I'd go the BP51 route based on everything I've read. It's just not in the cards, if I threw a proper amount at the suspension there wouldn't be anything for wheels/tires. I know, I know...get to the point!

I would like to know what the most comfortable lift would be in the $1k-ish range? I've read mixed reviews on all of them, comfortable, firm, almost like stock, too harsh... Next question is, will I be wasting my money? Should I just hold out until I can throw $4k+ at a lift? I'm trying to decide if I should spend the money on a more budget lift, or possibly throw the oem front spacers in to level it, throw some more aggressive tires on the stock wheels, and save for a better setup. If someone would say, definitively, yes my ______ setup was around 1k and it rides as comfortable or better than stock...then I would probably make the jump. After hours and hours of reading the only thing I've found that seems 100% true is the BP51 setup is unicorns and rainbows with fairy dust as suspension. It's just pricey at the moment, and at the rate of my bike build that kind of expense ain't anytime soon.

The one thing I CAN decide on is, it's not staying bone stock for long. Any and all advice is welcomed and appreciated, sorry I'm long winded in person and when I post LOL

 

[OneManAsset]

I would just get a basic old man emu kit (1000 bucks), then search Craiglist for some used tundra wheels and tires. You might get lucky and find some wheels attached to oversized tires and call it a day.

I only say that because I hate 20" wheels with aggressive tires. Just my personal preference and to each his own, but I like my tires like I like my women....with plenty of meat on them.

 

[OneManAsset]

Another reason behind the wheels is that since you say 95% of your driving is on highway you could just swap back and forth on the rare occasion you do go off road.

 

[Mogwai]

Front struts spacers, taller/more aggressive tires (33 - 34"), and sliders and I'd stop there until you can drop some serious coin. Then drive it for a while, see if you even need/want more after that.

Any of the basic lifts will be a lot firmer than stock. If you liked a firm ride I'd say go for it but you sorta stated you didn't.

 

[WesSiler]

Front struts spacers, taller/more aggressive tires (33 - 34"), and sliders and I'd stop there until you can drop some serious coin. Then drive it for a while, see if you even need/want more after that.

Any of the basic lifts will be a lot firmer than stock. If you liked a firm ride I'd say go for it but you sorta stated you didn't.

This is good advice. Just add 34x10.5-17 K02s and call it a day. Maybe even just add some spacers to get the offset you need. I'm sure someone else can advise on that.

 

[LL247]

To clarify, I don't mind a bit firmer than stock. I'm just gun shy from driving Wranglers for so many years. I love having a daily driver that actually rides decent.

I've read a couple people saying the Dobinsons lift is pretty soft riding in the lower price range?

 

[TeCKis300]

I second @Mogwai s recommendation. Front OEM spacer, then paired with 15 or 20 mm rear spring spacers. Maintains a buttery stock ride with some lift.

Add a solid 33-34 tire for real under the axle lift. I'd recommend a 285/70r18 or 305/65r18.
1" wheel spacers necessary for clearance but also correct for suspension geometry.

This will be overall a solid 2.5" lift with all the goodness of the stock suspension tuning. With little compromise to suspension geometry or aftermarket reliability.

It'll look the business and be the business with huge capability. And be a good jumping off point for more mods as you decide which way to go. Most everything still applicable (including front shock spacer) as you build it further.

 

[Mogwai]

Where are you located? I'm sure a fellow mud member in your area would be happy to take you for a spin. I'd still say keep it stock and at least get it dirty and get a feel for her before doing to much.

 

[liv2bike]

Front spacers, Bilstein 4600s. The front spacers will raise the front end 3/4’ish of an inch. Bilsteins will tighten things up. They actually have adjustable spring perches up front. Stock setting, approx 3/4” setting and then about a 1.25” setting. So you could just do the Bilsteins w/o the front spacers.

Mount a 285/65/18 and call it good. You’d get a slight lift, new rubber, better/tighter handling, no more braking nose dive all for a fraction of the cost.

Just a suggestion. Cheers.

Guy

 

[LL247]

I second @Mogwai s recommendation. Front OEM spacer, then paired with 15 or 20 mm rear spring spacers. Maintains a buttery stock ride with some lift.

Add a solid 33-34 tire for real under the axle lift. I'd recommend a 285/70r18 or 305/65r18.
1" wheel spacers necessary for clearance but also correct for suspension geometry.

This will be overall a solid 2.5" lift with all the goodness of the stock suspension tuning. With little compromise to suspension geometry or aftermarket reliability.

It'll look the business and be the business with huge capability. And be a good jumping off point for more mods as you decide which way to go. Most everything still applicable (including front shock spacer) as you build it further.

So 305/65r18 would fit with just the oem spacer in front? I love the look of that size but assumed a lift off 2" was needed. Not afraid of any trimming either, owning a custom shop means we cut, weld, drill, trim, expensive stuff regularly lol

 

[M1911]

Why spend money on wheels? The stock wheels are fine.

 

[jwmNC]

The Dobinsons is a great option for reasonable price but it is not soft. I had one on my 200 for a couple of months and went back to stock for that reason, and because I didn’t like the extra height when towing my boat. It’s possible it would have broken in over time and been softer, but based on your description of your need I don’t think you’ll love it.

 

[LL247]

Why spend money on wheels? The stock wheels are fine.

I understand the oem wheels are nice, but for me they have to go. At the very minimum powder coated black.

I can't stand stock appearance of anything, it's an expensive habit...

 

[bloc]

You can put a spring on front King 2.5s that matches stock rate (500lb/in), for the record. Then their shocks in back to control damping.. this would give you relatively soft springs but with more body control.

Also while OE wheels are very strong and fit perfectly, they are pretty heavy. Enter the TRD Pro BBS forged wheels, or rock warriors.

Front spacers, Bilstein 4600s. The front spacers will raise the front end 3/4’ish of an inch. Bilsteins will tighten things up. They actually have adjustable spring perches up front. Stock setting, approx 3/4” setting and then about a 1.25” setting. So you could just do the Bilsteins w/o the front spacers.

The advantage to the spacers is you gain some down travel. Only adjusting the perches on the bilsteins will give the extra static height but no extra droop when needed off-road.

 

[Reckless]

I dont understand budget but recommend doing it once and doing it right. Personally I would do coil overs with adjusters using stock rear spring. You wont get much lift (0.75" front) but you will have a comfortable ride. The other option may be just do the rear shocks and wait for the fronts later. From my experience the rear shocks made the world of a difference in handling and comfort. It could have been because my shocks were shot. I intentionally tested rears on first before doing front just to see which made a bigger difference.

 

[M1911]

I understand the oem wheels are nice, but for me they have to go. At the very minimum powder coated black.

I can't stand stock appearance of anything, it's an expensive habit...

Your vehicle and your wallet, so do what you want.

Personally, I would spend money on things that improve functionality (bumpers, sliders, suspension, long range fuel tank), rather than replacing wheels that are perfectly functional.

 

[TeCKis300]

So 305/65r18 would fit with just the oem spacer in front? I love the look of that size but assumed a lift off 2" was needed. Not afraid of any trimming either, owning a custom shop means we cut, weld, drill, trim, expensive stuff regularly lol

Ayup. There's some mild trimming of the wheel well plastic, but it's straightforward and not a big deal, and would be child's play for your skillset.

EDIT, forgot to comment on lift. On an IFS suspension truck, lift is almost an independent consideration from clearance. Lifting IFS, doesn't really create more clearance. Unlike solid front axles, the suspension travel will be exactly the same from compressed to full droop. It just changes where the suspension is at rest. As we off-road, the tire still has to clear throughout the suspension stroke.

Bonus, the spare fits too.

One of my favorite rigs on here that runs 305/65s - @WildYoats

 

[scott johnson]

I'm in the same position now. I'm about to put a 2" Iron man lift on my truck. I'm used to wheeling a 40 so I don't mind it being a little stiffer ride. I put a set of 17 inch wheels on when I got the truck along with 34 10.50 BFG all terrains. They rub the mud flaps a little. Kind of weird how Toyota designed the flaps to jut out toward the tire . Hopefully it will clear after the lift. if not I'll trim the flaps.