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Jan 28, 2022
At the bottom where i highlighted, that just means to have the ignition on accessories correct?


FWIW, it's probably best to clip the meter's probes to the relay's terminals and then clip the NEG battery lead to the relay. Then you can momentarily touch the POS battery lead to the relay. You don't want to let the smoke out.
No... you need to remove the relay, apply 12v to terminals 1 and 3, then A. You might hear/ feel the relay contacts close, and then B. You should measure and have continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
Not going to lie, I have no clue how I'm going to do that. Any ideas?
Not going to lie, I have no clue how I'm going to do that. Any ideas?
Pull relay. Set on something underhood. Connect leads from multimeter to posts 2 and 4. Leave meter connected. Hook up ground wire from battery to post 3. Take a lead and connect it to post 1. Take the other end of the lead on post 1 and touch it to the + side of the battery while watching th meter. It should go from OL to probably .5 ohms or less.

And 9 volt battery.

Relays come in different configurations, but the purpose of each is to open or close a circuit via a contact(s). This is achieved using a small electro-magnet (coil) inside the relay. When power is applied the 'coil' either opens or closes the contact(s).

So...the basic test outlined in the FSM is testing for two things:

1. The coil windings are not broken or shorted to ground.
2. The contacts are not damaged and the rest of the physical structure (electrical) is not damaged either.

The test ONLY seeks to confirm 'continuity' (whether there should or should not be any).

It does not test for resistance. In the majority of cases IF you hear/feel the relay 'click' or make/break contact....then odds are the relay is good...or at least capable of operating. However.....a 'weak/intermittent' relay can occur IF the resistance in the circuit is high. The point being....not every relay is good just because you hear it is often assumed.

When in rule of thumb concerning relays is as follows:

1. IF the relay is inexpensive and relatively easy to access.....I will simply replace it. Relays are electrical components and subject to wear.

2. IF the relay is an expensive one and/or not easily accessed. I will test first. If passing the basic test....I will follow up with substituting a 'known to be good' relay (if available). Some relays are duty specific, others are of a shared design and can be swapped in for testing. Ultimately, you will have to decide whether or not to replace the expensive ones...but DO test them to the best of your ability.
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