I can not get the fill plug off of my 94's transfercase. Any tricks? It started to round off so I quit. I didn't drain it yet and I won't until I get the plug off. I have not changed oil in this yet and wanted to before I head out for a 12 hour trip for a double funeral. Thanks!
Stuck transfercase fill plug.
- Thread starter Kohle
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Hit the fill plug with a hammer to loosen it, also grind the end of the socket so you aren't using the bevel on the thin fill plug head.
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^2 AND use a 6 point socket.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
Hammer a 15/16" on there and use a 18" breaker bar. Once you get it loose...get a new one and use anti-seize. They're like $4 from Toyota.
Get a new one in the 10mm hex style, and a new special crush washer.
- Thread starter
- #8
Still can't get it. It was round before...but now it is really rounded off. I have a leak and I wanted to top it off before I left. The previous owner has had the transfercase apart for some reason. There is orange rtv on the backside of the transfercase.
Not following protocol expressed in the FSM.
Happens when people re use the washers too many times.
I always recommend and use new drain and fill gaskets. No use saving a buck to create a future headache.
I had the same issue. Finally had to get the welder out and weld another bolt on it. Easy enough after that. Have a new plug ready and go for the 10mm hex as someone else said.
I helped someone out with a similar situation. Took two of us. Used a floor jack under the breaker bar pushing up for rotating force. The other person leaned heavily onto the socket to keep it from rising up on the bolt, using a wood dowel to push hard. The fill plug let go with a bang and we put a new one on it. Asshats with air guns...
DougM
DougM
No it happens when they get over torqued.
Kohle,
Be super careful with this nut. The transmission box casing may be made of aluminium, like mine is. Forcing the nut will crack the casing like what happened to mine. Then you would need to use JB Weld and permanently close up the plug like what I have done!. I fill my transmission from the drain plug now (interesting exercise). So Dont Force It. Its a bad design having a steel nut in a thin aluminium casing but that is how it is.
To prevent rounding the nut, in the future, use a 15/16in socket which has been ground down so that there no taper on the opening. Then it will seat full on the head of the nut and allow better purchase. I use an aluminium washer which is reusable a couple of times. The OEM uses a crush washer on all the drain plugs except the sump plug which uses a fiber washer. Also use a torque wrench to tighten to correct specs. Never over tighten.
Be super careful with this nut. The transmission box casing may be made of aluminium, like mine is. Forcing the nut will crack the casing like what happened to mine. Then you would need to use JB Weld and permanently close up the plug like what I have done!. I fill my transmission from the drain plug now (interesting exercise). So Dont Force It. Its a bad design having a steel nut in a thin aluminium casing but that is how it is.
To prevent rounding the nut, in the future, use a 15/16in socket which has been ground down so that there no taper on the opening. Then it will seat full on the head of the nut and allow better purchase. I use an aluminium washer which is reusable a couple of times. The OEM uses a crush washer on all the drain plugs except the sump plug which uses a fiber washer. Also use a torque wrench to tighten to correct specs. Never over tighten.
Welding might be your only option, but before you do try to find a small pair of stillsons/pipe wrench and grind one side of the pipe wrench as flat as you dare to fit, then a short bit of pipe. Has worked for me before, but has also failed heaps.
I even went as far as grinding "shark teeth" profiles into the jaws to make sure they gripped well, line the jaws over the top of plug and smack them down with a hammer so the teeth kind of cut their own track into the plug all the way up to the aluminium housing, then wrench away.
Sounds like its pretty chewed up already, one of the reasons i bought a mig welder and never bothered to replace my last 8" pipe wrench after i killed it.
I even went as far as grinding "shark teeth" profiles into the jaws to make sure they gripped well, line the jaws over the top of plug and smack them down with a hammer so the teeth kind of cut their own track into the plug all the way up to the aluminium housing, then wrench away.
Sounds like its pretty chewed up already, one of the reasons i bought a mig welder and never bothered to replace my last 8" pipe wrench after i killed it.
I had the same problem with my diff fill bolts, after rounding them beyond repair I did some searching and found out about the Irwin bolt grips.
Had a reli in the UK post ten over as Irwin didn't supply the particular sizes in Australia. But when I got them the bolt came strait off after a bit of persuasion with the jack and breaker bar.
The bolt was a write off but I was planning on getting a new anyway. Oh and always replace the gasket and torque to spec
Gl on gettin the bugger out!
Had a reli in the UK post ten over as Irwin didn't supply the particular sizes in Australia. But when I got them the bolt came strait off after a bit of persuasion with the jack and breaker bar.
The bolt was a write off but I was planning on getting a new anyway. Oh and always replace the gasket and torque to spec
Gl on gettin the bugger out!
Yeah, the problem is finding the Irwin bolt grips in a 24mm. I could only find them up to 19mm.