Stuck Odometer Fix (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 13, 2012
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Like many of you I've read this thread on fixing a stuck OD. Well today was my turn to clean up a frozen OD as mine stuck yesterday. What I will document here are some of the observations I made during the process.

When I went to disconnect the speedometer cable I didn't find any clip as shown in this thread. I did see a window on the cable housing and pushed in with a screw driver and the cable released.

I've heard/read that the speedometer needle will pull off. After a few tries with what I consider moderate hand pressure I gave up on it, not wanting to damage it. I figured out that to remove the clip on the OD shaft I needed to remove the two screws that hold the speedo face to gain more clearance.

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Be careful when removing the OD wheels as one of the washers may stick to the housing.

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My drive gear was different than the '84 that was used in the previously mention thread. Mine happens to be a '73 vintage.

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As you can see in the following photo my gears were totally frozen/gummed to the shaft and would not budge. Also, the small gear has taller teeth every other tooth. These play a part in lining up the number. You just need to rotate the gear to get things to seat properly. You understand better when you actually start the assembly.

DSC01867.JPG


There is also a washer after the last number wheel.

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I cleaned my parts with a combination of electrical contact cleaner and Dawn dish soap.
 
Joined
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Like others I used a wire to keep the parts in order during the cleaning process and to make re-assembly easier.

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To gain access to the other parts you need to remove the two screws holding the housing to the unit.

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Now you can clean the other gears that drive the number wheels.

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When assembling you just reverse the process. What you need to understand is that the numbers that are to be displayed need to be in the middle of the brackets.

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Failure to do so may result in something link this.

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This is the alignment that resulted in the above image.

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Remember they need to be centered, not to one side of the other. Once properly aligned it just a matter of placing the 1/10 end into the bracket, making sure to have the smallest washer on the shaft before installing it.

Installing the clip is easy, just angle it like show and push it down the rest of the way.

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When things are aligned properly you end up with this.

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All that is left is to attach the face with the two screws. Attach the speedo/OD to the cluster with the four screws. Attach the two wires to the to of the speedo and then the two Amp meter wires. Putting the speedo cable back is accomplished by snaking your arm into the back of the dash and pushing the cable over the end of the speedo until it locks in place.

I hope this clears up any voids you may have in your attempt at resolving the problem of a stuck OD. I used a Teflon grease that I had for gun lube.

I worked like a charm and is functioning as it should one again.
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
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Greenfield, MA
Good write up.

I did mine and it worked like a charm - for a while. Then it started getting sticky from time to time, a day here or a day there. Be interested to know if yours keeps running well for months/years or eventually starts to pack it in again.
 
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Mar 30, 2008
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Asheville, NC
I just rebuilt my 1970 FJ40 stuck odometer and in the process lost one of the speedometer face plate screws. Luckily it was the one that had a stripped slot. Does anyone know the OD and pitch? I measured the one I have to be .089" which is slightly larger than a #2. Or 2.2 mm which is not a standard size.
 
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I just rebuilt my 1970 FJ40 stuck odometer and in the process lost one of the speedometer face plate screws. Luckily it was the one that had a stripped slot. Does anyone know the OD and pitch? I measured the one I have to be .089" which is slightly larger than a #2. Or 2.2 mm which is not a standard size.

I don't know what size they are but I would find a replacement for the factory screw and use one of the thread repair products or JB Weld to repair the stripped threads. You don't need a lot of torque to hold the gauge.
 
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By the way can i just use WD40 instead of grease?

If you want to use WD40 because you can spray it in to clean out the old grease without taking things apart that wouldn't be bad. However, in the long run I don't believe the WD40 would leave enough behind to keep the parts lubed for very long, as in multiple years. If that is your plan than after cleaning with WD40 I would lube things up with a spray on Teflon or silicon lube for heavier lube deposit.
 
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Prescott Valley, AZ
If you want to use WD40 because you can spray it in to clean out the old grease without taking things apart that wouldn't be bad. However, in the long run I don't believe the WD40 would leave enough behind to keep the parts lubed for very long, as in multiple years. If that is your plan than after cleaning with WD40 I would lube things up with a spray on Teflon or silicon lube for heavier lube deposit.
Hey @B y r o n just wondering how this fix has held up for you. My ‘3/76 just stopped working. Thanks. Excellent write up👍
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
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WI
I tried dielectric grease on mine... after full disassembly, just finished a few weeks ago so we’ll see how it holds up. Also, tip for the stuck brass bushings, wrap a few laps around in 1000+ grit sand paper or higher and grab that with pliers. Prevents gouging the soft metal and gives lots of friction gripping.
 

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