Stranded mid intersection... Progress report

[GAS-A-LOT!]

So my fuel pump takes a dump at an intersection.... (or so it seems.) and the jumps out to help me push... Why she's still married to me is beyond me. Any ways... Oh and she laughs at me for being a Yota Fan Boy... Any who, I text WristPin, he calls me back and we start trouble shooting. MAF sensor cable? Plgged and good. Then I checked if I had fuel going to the intake and that checked out OK... Then confirmed if I had a spark and that's there too... 25Amp fuse? All good.... So I try and turn it on and it runs!!!! So I start driving on small streets just in case it happens again and sure enough it did... This time I check again but now, I don't have any fuel... Then my cousin, who went to help me out, gets under the tank to see if the pump makes the sound it does when the ignition is turned on.... And no sound... So we figured it was the pump...
After bothering D'animal during dinner time (I don't know but that's when we have dinner) He gets me in contact with a gentleman named KC and he suggests squirting fuel directly into the intake and see if it turns on and quits... So we do that and sure enough, we confirm that we are getting no fuel...

Stealer is asking for $350!
Kragen is around $180.00 for an AC delco part.

Suggestions?

The pump is supposed to come on (make noise) when the Ignition comes on no?





Oh and just want to thank
Wristpin!
D'animal
And a Guy named KC who has no clue as to who I am but none the less helped me out cuzz "D'animal told me to call you"

For putting up with my newbness/ADD non ridlin using self...

 

[KLF]

The pump is supposed to come on (make noise) when the Ignition comes on no?

NO.

Turning the key to ON will not make the pump run. There are 2 conditions that make the pump run: when starting, and when there is air flowing thru the airbox which trips a switch in the MAF to turn the pump on.

Take a paperclip, bend it into a U, jumper across the Fp and B+ contacts in the Diagnostic connector under the hood. Then turn the key to ON. This forces the pump to run, you should hear it back at the tank, or listen at the engine for the fuel hissing thru the fuel rail.

Is this your '87 4Runner? Just making sure.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Yup... It's my 87runner.... And there was no sound from the tank.

I'm thinking to get the AC Delco pump no?

 

[KLF]

These pumps are very reliable.

I would pop the cover off under the passenger side rear seat, get to the plug where it enters the tank. Take some zip cord and run it straight from the battery to the pump, see if the pump turns on. If not, then you at least confirmed that the pump is dead.

 

[cavemancaleb]

probly be better off gettin a low mileage pump from a junk yard

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Ok... So I pull it and I'm nervous because of the amount of fumes the full tank is emmiting... Good news is that there was no rust in sight...

So I pull the old pump and it works!!!! Why? What????!!!! And I'm asking the cuzz I don't have fellow mudders there to chat with and she says, "might as well since you have it out already... And that way we make sure"... And I'm thinking... how about if the pump is not always making contact?????????????? And the filter was torn... sooooo In goes the new pump and now I've got a spare....

It's all together and IT DOES NOT START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HELP!

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

You have an electric issue... Test the Air Flow Meter, to make sure it's sending a proper signal to the fuel pump, if it's good, then test the wires from the pump to the AFM...

Bummer, but I'm sure you will be able to find it. Look through the FSM for test procedures...

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

These pumps are very reliable.

I would pop the cover off under the p***enger side rear seat, get to the plug where it enters the tank. Take some zip cord and run it straight from the battery to the pump, see if the pump turns on. If not, then you at least confirmed that the pump is dead.

Thats what I get for not listening... My only saving grace is that the filter was torn and in need of changing... And now I've got a spare... Now, I've bridged the paper clip deal and no pump...

Also, I will be unplugging the unit and running it from the battery to see wuzz up.

 

[KLF]

Do you have a FSM available? There is a detailed description of the system in the EFI chapter.

Check the Circuit Opening Relay (under the pass side kickpanel), also the Main Relay, the EFI fuse, and your fusible links. The wiring in this isn't very complicated.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Downloading now...
One big question. What electrical/ohm reader am I looking for when buying one at Kragen or Vatozone?

I'm planning to start trouble shooting the system and will also need it to measure current and all that mumbo jumbo when checking if the TPS works or upgrading my alternator.

 

[cruiser88]

the 15 $ grey one at autozone is fine

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Dang it! it's in some foreign language... But I did find one for an 85. Will be heading over to Vato Zone to get a meter to start trouble shoot ing.

 

[cruiser88]

did you hot wire the pump?

Dang it! it's in some foreign language... But I did find one for an 85. Will be heading over to Vato Zone to get a meter to start trouble shoot ing.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Im about to... Found some wire..

 

[KLF]

You can do everything you need with a simple 12V test light. But having a meter lets you do more later. Try to find one that will also test high current, at least 10A DC, 20A DC is even better.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

OK! So from plug to pump, it works... Going to the local auto parts store now...

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

I THINK I JUST FIGURED IT OUT!!!!!!!!
I remember seing that the after market temp gauge was not reading even though the ignition was on!

And so I went back and followed the wire.... And found that it went to.....

And shoooo knuffff, it was blown!!!!!!!!!! Why didn't I think of this before....
I will say that in a good way, I now know how to change a fuel pump and I'm glad I was able to replace the torn filler down at the tank. And have an OEM spare to boot. I'm trying to look at the bright side of things here.


BIG QUESTIONs...

What does that 7.5amp fuse go to? FOUND IT! GOES TO IGNITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would like to find out why it blew vs just adding another one...


Would it be safer if I run a relayed electrical panel (sorry I know residential electrical ) what do you call those? Any ways, or could I place the temp gauge meter there again in the mean time?

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Newb log... 04012011. I've managed to turn on the car for only a short moment. And then, the 7.5 amp goes out.... What could be the cause? A mastery that man, probably would never know.

Seriously though, what could be causing that fuse to GO!

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

Well, I checked and at least I know that there is a loose wire or short somewhere.... I know schematics are cool and all but where does it go?
Talk about wanting to just light the damn thing on fire...

I'm finding loose/unplugged connectors everywhere.... Along with spliced here , spliced there.... If there is one thing I hate is a crappy cut to OEM wiring .....

Sorry about the rant.... That's all I can pretty much do right now.

Anyone know a local gremlin killer in the LA AREA?

Ok... Rant over... What sucks even more is that I aint got no other car that I can use right now...

 

[Bogo]

Tape over the ends of any loose/cut wires you can't figure out where they go. Note their colors, base color and stripe color. You may also have a intermittent short in one of the wires off that fuse. You can use the wire colors to hopefully figure out which wire it is in the wiring diagram. The wiring diagram will have a key for the color designations. B-W would be a black wire with a white stripe. Note blue is not B, i think it is L. That is why you use the color key.

When looking for intermittent shorts, I'll put the DVM into continuity mode and attach one lead to the circuit that is shorting, and the other lead to the frame. They I'll grab bundles of wires and wiggle them. If I hear a beep then I'm getting close. This doesn't always work.