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Last night I made use of the bead blaster I just found out was available for use in the shop.
Stevo's Unofficial Build Thread, FJ60 + FJ62 + FJ80 Axle = FJ68? (1 Viewer)
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Then I threw some paint on the cleaned up knuckles:
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Then I also got the new crossmember set up.
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I made a decision regarding the paint, and decided to go with some tractor supply implement enamel.
I am very happy with the end result.
Overall I paid roughly $80 for it, and should have done this from the start. It has a much nicer finish, and was much faster to coat the whole truck.
I am very happy with the end result.
Overall I paid roughly $80 for it, and should have done this from the start. It has a much nicer finish, and was much faster to coat the whole truck.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
good with some extra layers!! 
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Yeah right now it has two coats of primer, 3 coats of rattlecan gloss black and a top coat of oil based tractor enamel.
It should be pretty good for a while.
It should be pretty good for a while.
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Looks like a brand new truck.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Hope you're proud of the paint job!
;p
Sent from my GT-I9000 using IH8MUD app.
;p
Sent from my GT-I9000 using IH8MUD app.
shorter shackles will lessen the angle, not longer, that said I would just move the hangers. I would throw the body on and see what happens but it will probably be too shallow of an angle and may top out at the frame under compression before you hit your bumpstops. you're gonna need axle shims to cure your pinion and caster plus longer U-bolts than the stock fronts as well.
nice job, the black looks good but you're gonna need window tint and a murder job on the chrome.
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shorter shackles will lessen the angle, not longer, that said I would just move the hangers. I would throw the body on and see what happens but it will probably be too shallow of an angle and may top out at the frame under compression before you hit your bumpstops. you're gonna need axle shims to cure your pinion and caster plus longer U-bolts than the stock fronts as well.
nice job, the black looks good but you're gonna need window tint and a murder job on the chrome.
You are right, I am going to need to move the hangers forward. The suspension has settled a bit since the drivetrain has been put back on it. I might as well do it right while its easy to work on.
I don't think I'll need shims though considering I'll be doing a cut and turn. I have the Ubolts that came with the ruffstuff kit, they are pretty long so I think they will work.
The only chrome left on it is on the door handles. Maybe I'll get a tint, but they are semi-illegal in NJ.
sorry, I missed that you're going SOA.
sweet.
sweet.
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Not a problem, the SOA is going to be really nice with the 63" chevy springs in the rear. I'm going to be buttoning that up pretty soon, I need to do the galley plug fix and put the body on first.
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So last night I had some time and decided to tackle the galley plug fix.
Unfortunately when I pulled the valve cover, I found a bunch of antifreeze in with the rockers.
I have to check out the cause of this, if I can't I might end up pulling the head and replacing the head gasket.
There was one thing that I noticed that seemed a little odd, there seemed to be more antifreeze at the front of the head, but then again that could have shifted when I transferred the drivetrain to the new frame.
Are there any tests that can conclusively prove that the HG is blown, other than a visual examination?
But anyway I went ahead and finished tapping and plugging the hole (I love working with cast iron, its so nice to tap). But I forgot to take pictures of the end result.
While it was off I also bead blasted the valve cover. It turned out pretty nice, I still haven't decided if I am going to paint it or just leave it as is.
Unfortunately when I pulled the valve cover, I found a bunch of antifreeze in with the rockers.
I have to check out the cause of this, if I can't I might end up pulling the head and replacing the head gasket.
There was one thing that I noticed that seemed a little odd, there seemed to be more antifreeze at the front of the head, but then again that could have shifted when I transferred the drivetrain to the new frame.
Are there any tests that can conclusively prove that the HG is blown, other than a visual examination?
But anyway I went ahead and finished tapping and plugging the hole (I love working with cast iron, its so nice to tap). But I forgot to take pictures of the end result.
While it was off I also bead blasted the valve cover. It turned out pretty nice, I still haven't decided if I am going to paint it or just leave it as is.
The white sludge around your rockers is proof enough that the HG is blown. Remove head and start again.
I would also agree that having mayonnaise on my rockers is a sure sign of a HG issue....
I like the paint too..
I like the paint too..
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Yep I pretty much figured that, I have a new HG on the way. I'll be tackling that job this week.
While the head is off should I deck it, or do anything to it?
While the head is off should I deck it, or do anything to it?
This leads up to one of those... if I'm in there I might as well __(insert cash)___. Ultimately that leads to a rebuild.
At least inspect the head for cracks anywhere, cylinder condition, etc. Hopefully no worms come out and all it needs is a gasket.
At least inspect the head for cracks anywhere, cylinder condition, etc. Hopefully no worms come out and all it needs is a gasket.
Dude that tractor paint looks nice.
Too bad about the motor. Hope you can get it running ASAP!
Too bad about the motor. Hope you can get it running ASAP!
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Good point, I really just want this to last until I can put the 6BT in. I'd rather spend money on that.
Good point, I really just want this to last until I can put the 6BT in. I'd rather spend money on that.
Not Good point.....Great point!!
Spend the cash on the 6BT!
