All the steering shafts I see to buy for a Saginaw conv. on a FJ40 are fairly expensive. I could get a 3/4" piece of bar stock for cheap and put two u joints on the ends... Is there a problem with this? Does the shaft have to flex or something?
Not only is the solid link dangerous in case of accident, but if you go off-raoding where frame flex is involved, the shaft will pull up and down on the steering wheel at the head of the column. I have seen the wheel pulled down where the turn signal canceller on the back of the wheel bound up in the turn signal switch, resulting in not being able to complete the safe execution ot a turn!!!!! Not a pretty picture.
RULE NUMBER ONE: NEVER SCREW AROUND WITH YOUR STEERING OR YOUR BRAKES. YOU WILL BE A DANGER TO OTHER PEOPLE! IF YOU CANNOT AFFORD TO DO IT RIGHT, WAIT!
We use 5/8" or 3/4" PTO shaft (roundstock WITH keyway) and a SLIP JOINT at the connection with your steering shaft. A solid mount is dangerous, use a slip joint.
isn't there a wagon cruiser out there that has a steering shaft already with u-joints and a slip-shaft
that could be used or modified ?
can we see some picks i am intersted in this steering shaft (slip joint) also i have a solid steering shaft weled to 2 u-joints with one u-joint attached directly to the box . looks like the spud shaft from advanced adapter but it is welded or part of the ujoint i think old downey stuff .didn't they make a kit that came with solid round and no slip joint ?
I will get some pics of our slip-joint system ASAP (tomorrow most likely)... We sell a kit that includes just the shaft, joints, yoke, & slip yoke, keyway, etc... We can leave the shaft long so that you can mate it to your exact setup. Look for more details tomorrow...
I used a 55 column which is about 1 inch longer than the 40, but it has a splined output with a steady bearing at the fire wall. I took apart a 60 series column and got the 'double D' colapsible shaft out of it and the U joints fit on the spline of the 55 column. Using the female part of the double D, I had my friend machine me the male part, but much longer so it will reach the box. Cut a key way in the box end and put on your joint for the box. Make sense? If you got lots of parts around, it can be done pretty cheep.
cool ! can't wait to see pics i am interested .price info would be great also . i new there was a way of scavageing cruiser parts to make your own . thanks .
Jake
I used an 80s XJ steering shaft and lengthened it with 1" tube. It had the right u-joint on it for the box side. Cost of shaft was $10, I had to bend over and buy from borison for the other joint though, that joint amounted to half the cost of my PS conversion.
I don't know about the price of the steering columns, but my friend machined the shaft for $20 or so, and the yoke that attaches to the box cost $80. The price of the columns will vary depending on where you get em.
when i did mine ( column out of 74 camaro) i used the chevy slip joint that was attached to the column and got what they called a double d shaft from street rod shop it was around 4 ft. long and was only $18.00 and it fits inside the chevy shaft, and the street rod u-joints were about 60.00 bucks each. but you can get cheaper u-joints at auto parts place for around $20.00, had a buddy weld it all together and i have about 6 in. of slip before the ends meet with about 4 inches inside the shaft so flex is not a problem. hope this helps i could send pics if needed just pm me and give e-mail address because i still cant figure out how to resize a photo. good luck!!
There are alot of budget ways to do it, but for those looking for the complete steering shaft kit, ours will retail ~$200, that includes all the heavy duty shaft, DanaSpicer U-Joints, yoke's, etc... Lemme know if your interested...
