Steering Column Experts : Please Unite

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mjanderle

mjanderle

10 Year
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Threads
46
Messages
175
Location
Madison, WI
1977 FJ40 / 2F / Saginaw Conversion

This issue has been addressed by other members here, but I have a logistical question.
I need to replace this bushing due to an insanely annoying metal / metal knocking at the firewall :

attachment.jpg


(Image borrowed from other thread)

To execute this replacement, do I need to pull the steering wheel, turn signal switch, bearing, and upper bracket
to get at the bushing, or is there an easier route?

Any input from those who have ventured down this road would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Michael
 
mjanderle said:
1977 FJ40 / 2F / Saginaw Conversion

This issue has been addressed by other members here, but I have a logistical question.
I need to replace this bushing due to an insanely annoying metal / metal knocking at the firewall :

attachment.jpg


(Image borrowed from other thread)

To execute this replacement, do I need to pull the steering wheel, turn signal switch, bearing, and upper bracket
to get at the bushing, or is there an easier route?

Any input from those who have ventured down this road would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Michael
Click to expand...

That is a pillow block. You will need to pull the entire column to install the bushing on the end of your soon to be cut shaft. If you already have the conversion done and it knocks; it is because there is no bushing in there now. Buy the bushing from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters unless you want to hunt for it.
 
When we did my Saginaw conversion we used a steering colum out of a Sprint cup car made by Sweet manufacturing. I also use the firewall bearing and steering knuckles/shaft
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Call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. He has a bearing that goes in that little space and is perfectly sized to support the lower part of the steering column shaft. It's actually the way Toyota should have done it from the factory. The best part is, it's like $15.


You just pull the whole column. It's trivially easy-maybe 15 minutes. Leave the turn signals and steering wheel in place and pull the whole thing out as 1 unit.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. He has a bearing that goes in that little space and is perfectly sized to support the lower part of the steering column shaft. It's actually the way Toyota should have done it from the factory. The best part is, it's like $15.


You just pull the whole column. It's trivially easy-maybe 15 minutes. Leave the turn signals and steering wheel in place and pull the whole thing out as 1 unit.
Click to expand...

A picture at the end of this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/371681-fj40-steering-column-bearing.html Or you can use a different bearing with a modified hole pattern milled for existing bolts in the firewall mount. Either way, you have to cut your steering rod at the rag joint, and bearings are installed at the base where the cut is made. Both cases don't require removal and disassembyl from the steering wheel on down.
 
mjanderle said:
To execute this replacement, do I need to pull the steering wheel, turn signal switch, bearing, and upper bracket
to get at the bushing, or is there an easier route?
Click to expand...

No. When I bought a factory replacement bushing ('78 model) it came with a slit in it that allowed me to install it from the lower end without removing the steering wheel. I already had the column out when I found that mine was a crusty little remnant of its former glory. A little weatherstrip (contact) cement closed up the slit.

I'm going from memory back a dozen years so I could have dreamed it was this easy.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. He has a bearing that goes in that little space and is perfectly sized to support the lower part of the steering column shaft. It's actually the way Toyota should have done it from the factory. The best part is, it's like $15.

You just pull the whole column. It's trivially easy-maybe 15 minutes. Leave the turn signals and steering wheel in place and pull the whole thing out as 1 unit.
Click to expand...

This seems to be the path with least resistance. To clarify, all one would need to do is pull the bolts from the toe-board, pull the setscrew in the steering joint, and then pull everything including cut column out, put in the new bushing / bearing, and reinstall?

kurtnkegger said:
A picture at the end of this thread
Click to expand...
 https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/371681-fj40-steering-column-bearing.html Or you can use a different bearing with a modified hole pattern milled for existing bolts in the firewall mount. Either way, you have to cut your steering rod at the rag joint, and bearings are installed at the base where the cut is made. Both cases don't require removal and disassembyl from the steering wheel on down.[/QUOTE]
I looked up the parts at Cruiser Outfitters and found :

Column Bushing - $23
 (Required for all 58'-9/72' FJ40 installs)
 Part# PSCB1
 Column Bearing - $12
 (Required for 9/72'-84' FJ40 installs)
 Part# PSCB2

Do I need both bearing and bushing?

As per usual, thanks in advance.
Michael

A little video of the bastard noise in question :
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QFLo40BOwdkk3y6-AcKkhA?feat=directlink
 
Henry James the 47th said:
"To execute this replacement, do I need to pull the steering wheel, turn signal switch, bearing, and upper bracket
to get at the bushing..."

Yes

"...or is there an easier route?"

No.

IIRC, that 'bushing' is a seal made entirely some sort of rubber or foam.
Click to expand...

Not so. It depends how your column is connected to your u-joint. If it is welded you have to take your column apart. Mine has set screws so I could take that loose and slide a new one up over it.

Sent from technology I can't control using the IH8MUD app.
 
If you are doing a Saginaw steering anyway, you'll need to cut your steering shaft at the rag joint. You can replace the bushing, or replace that with the pillow block and bearing from the cut side. There is no reason to remove the steering wheel. I went with the bearing because it was serviceable with a zerk, and could be lubricated as needed. The bushing to me seems to be a wear part, that will eventually need replacing sooner than the bearing. That said, it really doesn't matter which one you use...you don't need both, just make sure you have some type of support there for the steering shaft.
 
Sorry to bring this up again, but I revisited this tonight to find that on my existing saginaw conversion my steering joint/knuckle is welded on both sides. With this, I can not pull the entire column out without breaking the weld, which I really don't want to do.

My question(s) :

Is it possible to take everything off of the steering column and run Kurt's bearing down the shaft of the column to the bottom where it would sit? Is there anything on the column that would prevent the bearing from going down where is should be seated?

Picture of Kurt's bearing (and what it would look like if I could pull my column, which unfortunately I can't do) :

attachment.php


Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
MJA

 
Are you stating a pillow block like the one below will not fit over the shaft from the bottom in your picture?

Often, in a saginaw mod, one would be bolted to the outside of the fire wall. (Is that yours in the video?)

If there is something precluding you from sliding one from the bottom then yes, you can take everything apart and slide the bearing the length of the shaft. There should be some lock rings on the shaft that will have to be removed.

The problem I see is that you will have to slide the shaft up from inside the engine compartment and may have some clearance issues depending on what you have in there.

Good luck.
 
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