starting the body work

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srf18 said:
So there is hope! I have similar rust and bondo issues and I'm trying to build up the tools, talent and courage necessary to tackle the job. I'm in the process of borrowing a welder, trying to source some replacement panels/ sheet metal and getting some practice. A couple of questions:
- What gauge steel are you using since it looks like you're cutting your own?
- How much time did it take you to do the rear quarter areas?
Keep up the great work and thank you for posting the progress. Now I need to get off my duff and get 'er done!
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Im using 18 gauge cold rolled. The drivers side was spread over two weekends. Im just doing the sheet metal work will do the body work and paint later
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shaunbags said:
Did you weld the roof rack brackets strait onto the roof? I or bolt thru from the inside roof rails?
Your doing a good job there mate, mine is coming in for a rust removal soon, need more good threads like this:-)
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Their was a factory roof rack so i used the original bolt holes. the back two seem fairly solid and are tied into roof rails I'm assuming. the front one seems to have a bit less strength once i remove the head liner ill get a better look.
 
this photo show a little better the brackets before the rails were welded on. originally i was going to just bolt it to the roof as you can see by the angle brackets but their was no strength so i removed them.
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fighting the rust said:
this photo show a little better the brackets before the rails were welded on. originally i was going to just bolt it to the roof as you can see by the angle brackets but their was no strength so i removed them.
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Yeah I see what you mean, I'm thinking of a skinnier long rack (end of roof to end) with enough room for lights on the front and a 2.4mx1.2m footprint for sheet carrying purposes:-)
I'm hoping to tie it into to the roof supports but will cross that bridge when I get to it
 
Hey "fighting the rust".

I see a Radd decal on the rear hatch glass..... are you near by? VI?

Cam
 
fighting the rust said:
Yes I'm in vic. Bought the cruiser from a guy in town who put the sticker on as i haven't been to radd cruisers yet but have heard good things bought them.
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We had a club meeting tonite..... perhaps you can make the next one. Its a good way to meet others and swap parts etc. I'd love to come by and see your rig and all the amazing work you have done! Mine was bad but nothing compared to yours.

Check out our clubhouse forum.



https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vancouver-island-cruisers/
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now the question with patch work

Your corrosion was way worse then mine. I have yet to tackle the other fender of my truck. Wonder what the cost would be for a company that has a english wheel to make a new inner inner wheel well, or find a used one from another seller. ?
 
I was at Tractor Supply today picking up some stall mat for the back end of my rig and noticed a variety of replacement trailer fenders. I started wondering if any would work to replace an inner wheel well. You would have to do a little bit of cutting to make it fit, but if the radius and length/ width are close it might save some time if you don't have the metal working skills of fighting the rust. This all assumes it is cheaper than getting a shop to fab one or cut one out of a rig being parted out. http://www.tractorsupply.com/carry-on-trailer-trade-fender-with-back-9-in-x-32-in--0175512
 
srf18 said:
I was at Tractor Supply today picking up some stall mat for the back end of my rig and noticed a variety of replacement trailer fenders. I started wondering if any would work to replace an inner wheel well. You would have to do a little bit of cutting to make it fit, but if the radius and length/ width are close it might save some time if you don't have the metal working skills of fighting the rust. This all assumes it is cheaper than getting a shop to fab one or cut one out of a rig being parted out. http://www.tractorsupply.com/carry-on-trailer-trade-fender-with-back-9-in-x-32-in--0175512
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those fenders look like a good idea they have a nice shape plus the rolled edges make then really strong.

a little action shot of the LC from today Im still only about 50 percent rust free but its important to get out to remember why I'm doing all this other wise it just turns into work
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rustybucket said:
Your corrosion was way worse then mine. I have yet to tackle the other fender of my truck. Wonder what the cost would be for a company that has a english wheel to make a new inner inner wheel well, or find a used one from another seller. ?
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I did some looking around before i started and every thing that was custom made cost more then i paid for the beast. At this point I'm about $80 of sheet metal and 60 for wirer for my mig.
 
starting the passenger side body work

first shot is half way striping the carpet out
2nd and 3rd pic are all the extra dirt I've been carrying around
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I thought I had it bad on my FJ62, but yours is worse. I would love to see more pictures of the welding, since I will be doing this soon. Are you planning to recreate the lower part of the panel or cut it off at the bumper level like others seem to do. I also have the rust on the wheel cover where it attaches to the floor. I think I can just cut it out the bad inch or so and replace. Please keep posting, very very interested in your progress.

Also, what welder are you using?
 
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