Spring Swap/ Shim question?????

[Degnol]

Yesterday I/we started at 10:30 and finished about 3:30, swapped in a '77 front axle and installed 4 new springs. Lots of brakework left to do, but happy with progress so far.
I installed a shackle reversal about three years ago, but other than that I don't think that the front end had ever been futzed with. Well, when I removed the springs from the old front axle, there was a set of shims that looked like they have been there since day one ('66FJ40). One is marked "T 102-3", the other is not marked and they are brass. My question is...Did Toyota ever install caster correction shims from the factory? My old springs were very flat stockers. After the shackle reversal install and new tierod ends, the thing ran down the road straight with no shimmy or other front end problems. Now I'm worried as I didn't re-install the shims
The new springs are 2" lift and came originally from SOR. Some Canadian manufacturer.
I guess I'll just drive it and see. But If I DO need caster correction shims, will I need to replace the u-bolts? I know they are technically only supposed to be torqued once. I did torque them to 85#.
Whaddaya think?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[Rocky_LC]

Nice Looking Truck.

What's that cool anodized speaker mounted on the engine for, your siren?

Rocky

 

[IDave]

Hah! I was gonna ask the same thing. Probably for when he has to make late night trips for emergency prophies.

 

[Pin_Head]

AFAIK, shims were not stock and I would guess that they were in there to compensate for some negative effects of the SR. The "rock finder" type of SR is designed the way it is so it won't cause caster problems. If you have problems with wandering or the death wobble, I would put them back in. I wouldn't worry about retorquing the U bolts. I do this a couple times a year to make sure they are still tight. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[Degnol]

Nice Looking Truck.

What's that cool anodized speaker mounted on the engine for, your siren?

Rocky

Well...you see this is a "father and son" project. That was the "son" contribution. He lets me handle the small stuff...suspension, engine work and brakes, paint, interior. He handles the "installation" of such necessities as the CB WITH external speaker. He hasn't had the time to tune the antenna, so all he can do is yell at people through the loudspeaker. Oh, and I believe there IS a siren option, which we don't have...yet.

PinHead, I didn't make myself clear, but I did the "rock finder" SR, so the shims were there already, unbeknownst to me.
I've seen aluminum caster shims and steel, but never brass. Is that wierd? I think steel is preferable, huh?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[bad_religion_au]

could be theshims that were available from toyota to assist with fixing the cruiser lean?

 

[Degnol]

Yeah, but they are the same, at least they appear to be the same. And the one is marked, which eliminates any booty-fab. At least I don't sign my name or a # to the schtuff I do.
I just think it is wierd that in a "stock" suspension there would be shims. Coupled with the fact that after I went through and corrected all the common problems for shimmy and wobble, and did the SR, everything was just fine. Now I've gone and f'ed it, maybe, by installing new springs and not replacing the shims. Shouldn't have replaced brass shims anyway.

Thanks, All,
Ed

 

[nuclearlemon]

i doubt they were factory...i sell lots of shims through work (for 18 wheelers) that have the same number pattern

 

[Degnol]

Thanks, Ige,. But the '40 only has 18 wheels when I've been drinking. Then it's 17. 18, 19...whatever it takes. They do not look factory, and BRASS?????WTF???
They look like the ashtray I made at Boy Scout Camp with a ball peen hammer.
Thanks,
Ed

 

[CruisinGA]

Brass is the best kind.
They bend to fit the curve of the spring instead of cracking like aluminum.

I have brass ones on mine right now from Napa, to take care of caster issues after the lift install.

Were they installed "fat forward" or vice versa when removed?

 

[nuclearlemon]

lol...the ones i sell have slightly different number ( i assume...yeah yeah yeah, i know never assume...that it's because of the different sizes)....t1031-1, t1031-2,t1031-3 and t1031-4. they also are brass.

 

[Degnol]

Bailey...Fat forward.

Ige...So, brass is better?

I'm just surprised that they were in there to begin with.

My U-joint is about max articulation right now. I think caster shims would put it over the top. I want it to track correctly, so may have to go with a CV joint in the front. I've got the SR and 2" spring lift...so about 3 1/2" of lift. Not exactly a SOA.

So, Ige, you sell shims and brass is good? I'll buy that, er, them. Can you dial in what I should try? Given the facts, Ma'am?

I'll probably drive it and break in the springs first. But thatnks everybody.

Ed

 

[nuclearlemon]

Ige...So, brass is better?

Ed

if they fail quickly and i sell more...yes, they are better

would i run brass in my cruisers...no

 

[rgentry]

Yo Degnol, what year or years is that cruiser?

I see a vented windshield, bib lights, marker lights, a hood with
no spear and no place for the windshield to rest. It looks too
clean for a collection of parts! BTW, I'd like to have the
drum brake stuff if you're willing to ship, otherwise, get it
to the local guy.

 

[nuclearlemon]

judging by the taper at the hood hooks, the hood is a two piece hood without the trim piece...so 68 or earlier

 

[Degnol]

It's a '66, but I welded the two-piece hood together. I like the look of the old windshield, but getting the vent to seal is a biatch. I'm about to put a '73 windshield on it.


Ed

The "spear" went to Chef.

 

[rgentry]

Tricky way to fool those of us who "think" they know the early
cruisers. I would save that vented windshield frame for
someone restoring a 60's FJ. My '68 cowl vent leaks pretty
good too.