Looking for some help. I have my ride on the lift to do brakes, calipers and rotors, along with re-grease or replace wheel bearings. Well this is the first time i have done this on my LC. Short story... previous owner had work done at a shop that i would not let work on a skateboard. They used either screwdriver or chisel to do the service. This wrecked the inner spindle nut and they wrecked the threads on the spindle. I am search of spindle, nut kit and all seals needed to do this, and any advise on this. Just looking for factory replacement or comparable. If you guys can point me in the right direction on the best place to source this and not the major parts chain stores not happy with them.
Spindle and nuts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter H2OFuzz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,233
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
cruiseroutfitters.com
inkpot
SILVER Star
I second Cruiser Outfitters!
be sure NOT to over tighten the spindle nut. i think it factory spec is 5 lbs. 2x check
- Thread starter
- #7
SO i have not yet received the parts yet, but i decided to finish the pass side rotors and what not. I am a bit gun shy of installing the spindle nuts and to seat the bearing. I am afraid to over tighten and strip the spindle on this side.
What i have found is that when i do install the nut on the spindle and tighten it to what the FSM says to seat bearings, i end up with not a whole lot of thread left on the spindle to put the locking washer and second spindle nut on. What i mean is there is barely a thread hanging on to that second nut. What am i doing wrong? I do not want to run into another stripped spindle and another week or so to get the replacement. So please let me know if i am doing anything wrong.
What i have found is that when i do install the nut on the spindle and tighten it to what the FSM says to seat bearings, i end up with not a whole lot of thread left on the spindle to put the locking washer and second spindle nut on. What i mean is there is barely a thread hanging on to that second nut. What am i doing wrong? I do not want to run into another stripped spindle and another week or so to get the replacement. So please let me know if i am doing anything wrong.
There should be plenty of thread. Try shimmying the rotor inward. Bearings might not be seated.
Hornd
SILVER Star
Not sure if anybody mentioned it, but I got my kit from Cruiser Outfitters.
Got my Wheel Grease Locally (Timkin or Mobil1) Red - cheap
Got the Valvoline Pallidium at Napa - cheap
Using a Lg Foil Pan underneath is smart.
Buy lots of paper towels and nitrile gloves, and a piece of 2" PVC if you plan on switching BIRFs (If you don't rotate your tires no need to switch your BIRFS)
Got my Wheel Grease Locally (Timkin or Mobil1) Red - cheap
Got the Valvoline Pallidium at Napa - cheap
Using a Lg Foil Pan underneath is smart.
Buy lots of paper towels and nitrile gloves, and a piece of 2" PVC if you plan on switching BIRFs (If you don't rotate your tires no need to switch your BIRFS)
Your inside bearing is not seating. That's why you need to torque to 45 lb-ft with the first nut. This will seat the bearings. turn the rotor while torquing.
Look up the @Tools R Us method for wheel bearings. The final torque is higher because if you set it per FSM specs, they will be immediately loose.
Wayne
Bought by His blood, kept by His power
I highly recommend you invest in a set of this chromoly spindle nuts.
Trail-Gear Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit - Yotamasters
Trail-Gear Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit - Yotamasters
inkpot
SILVER Star
If your spi
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,233
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
The spindle/nut will take 60ft/lb, likely more, but that is what we have put on them in testing. If preload is set at 5ft/lb, it will soon be loose, especially with new bearings, as they break in will loosen, require more attention.
We set preload between 25 and 35ft/lb, depending on grocery getter or wheeler. Most that we work on are often wheeled with 37" tires, so 35ft/lb. Bearings with preload are strong, loose bearings are weak and beat up parts.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,233
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
When properly assembled, the end of the spindle should be just proud of the outer nut. Something is not correct.
- Thread starter
- #16
OK thanks i plan on dabbling with it this evening. Like someone has said it's probably my inner wheel bearing not seated properly. I should be getting my parts in from cruiseroutfitters on Monday. So tonight i'm changing diff fluid and tackling a busted rear bump stop on rear axle. I love having access to a lift, lol.
bloc
SILVER Star
If you have a 90* oring pick it is a good tool to poke around behind the bearing race and see if it falls into a gap between it and the shoulder it should stop against. Obviously you can do this visually when everything is clean but by now there's probably grease everywhere.
Depending on what you are using to drive the new races in they may hang up on a shoulder to the outside of the new race. The machined bore is deeper than the new race is thick.. so that shoulder can hang things up. I use an older race that has the OD ground down slightly with a soft disk.
And, while they seem to work for many, I'm one of the few that isn't a fan of the design of the TG chromoly spindle nuts. Like the factory rear spindle nuts, they put ALL resistance to unthreading against the lock washer and groove in the spindle. Thing is in the rear that lock washer is very thick hitting a lot of threads in that groove. on the TG chromo parts it is very thin hitting only one or two. Factory front uses a thin tang in the groove as well as the interference between the two spindle nuts.. and seems to hold up well when the higher torque values recommended around here are used.
Personally I'd rather the star washer get damaged than the spindle, which is my main issue with them.
Depending on what you are using to drive the new races in they may hang up on a shoulder to the outside of the new race. The machined bore is deeper than the new race is thick.. so that shoulder can hang things up. I use an older race that has the OD ground down slightly with a soft disk.
And, while they seem to work for many, I'm one of the few that isn't a fan of the design of the TG chromoly spindle nuts. Like the factory rear spindle nuts, they put ALL resistance to unthreading against the lock washer and groove in the spindle. Thing is in the rear that lock washer is very thick hitting a lot of threads in that groove. on the TG chromo parts it is very thin hitting only one or two. Factory front uses a thin tang in the groove as well as the interference between the two spindle nuts.. and seems to hold up well when the higher torque values recommended around here are used.
Personally I'd rather the star washer get damaged than the spindle, which is my main issue with them.
- Thread starter
- #18
Thanks for all the help gents! I received my parts yesterday. Couldn't work on the LC due to adulting with kids in sports. But after examining the parts i received i do have one question for you smart guys. The spindle i removed has a brass bushing on the inside where as the one i received has both the brass and what looks like needle bearings. I have not attempted to fit it yet. Is this OK?
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,233
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
That is how the newer spindles come, an "upgrade" that I'm not a fan of, but works, mostly.
