well thats helpful but battery voltage alone doesnt confirm that the grounds are good. Since this started after the starter work, do a voltage-drop test while cranking.. measure from the battery negative post (not the clamp) to the engine block, then from the negative post to the body. Ideally you should see less than a 0.2–0.3v range . Also inspect/clean/tighten both ends of the battery negative cables and any engine to body ground strap.
also reseat and inspect the MET, GAUGE1, GAUGE2, ACC, and ECU-B2 fuses, then check the cluster connectors if the external grounds test good. theres a chance that the wording on those is wrong, i have a imported lc so mine may be different than yours
Bc the odometer still counts miles and cruise/shifting are normal, that kind of rules out that speed sensor. The cluster is seeing vehicle speed but isn’t driving the needle. The delay before all the gauges wake indicates a internal combination meter problem like power supply, cracked solder joint, capacitor, or speedometer motor. A scan tool showing live vehicle speed would confirm that before removing the cluster