Spare tire question

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Jun 10, 2006
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Abbotsford
Hi all, I've already done a search on this, and can't find an answer to my question since my particular 2017 GX460 didn't have a factory hitch; but I did install a rear hitch receiver adapter, that bolted to the rear frame crossmember (just for our bike rack only, not for towing). Anyway in all my searches it became pretty clear the limitations with max spare tire size, however all the searches referenced there being some potential hinderances with the KDSS system, but also with the factory rear hitch.

My question is for those GXs WITHOUT the factory rear hitch, and/or perhaps only with the rear receiver adapter (4 bolts), if there's a difference between the two, and if the models without the full factory rear hitch can allow perhaps a slightly larger spare than those that came with the full rear hitch?

Or is the limitation more on the inside (KDSS clearance) etc?

Hopefully my question makes sense? I had hoped to eventually run at minimum a 32" if possible 255/70/18 or 265/65/18 bare minimum. I'm not looking to downsize rims, as I already have 2 sets of factory 18s, and I like the look of them. I'd prefer not to go to a 17 if I can somehow manage to squeeze 70 series rubber (deflated of course) down there.
 
Hi all, I've already done a search on this, and can't find an answer to my question since my particular 2017 GX460 didn't have a factory hitch; but I did install a rear hitch receiver adapter, that bolted to the rear frame crossmember (just for our bike rack only, not for towing). Anyway in all my searches it became pretty clear the limitations with max spare tire size, however all the searches referenced there being some potential hinderances with the KDSS system, but also with the factory rear hitch.

My question is for those GXs WITHOUT the factory rear hitch, and/or perhaps only with the rear receiver adapter (4 bolts), if there's a difference between the two, and if the models without the full factory rear hitch can allow perhaps a slightly larger spare than those that came with the full rear hitch?

Or is the limitation more on the inside (KDSS clearance) etc?

Hopefully my question makes sense? I had hoped to eventually run at minimum a 32" if possible 255/70/18 or 265/65/18 bare minimum. I'm not looking to downsize rims, as I already have 2 sets of factory 18s, and I like the look of them. I'd prefer not to go to a 17 if I can somehow manage to squeeze 70 series rubber (deflated of course) down there.
A suggestion: Take your spare out from under your rig, go to your local tire shop (with your spare in the back seat) that you plan on purchasing your new tires from, and ask them if they would mount the tire, whichever sizes you're planning on getting. Then while in the parking lot, try to shove that spare up, under your rig and see if it fits. If it does (and they've already balanced it), leave it up there, and have them mount the other 4 tires, pay for them and call it a day! If not, ask them to try the next size down, or whatever size you think you'll want.
A good tire shop should not have an issue with mounting one tire for a fit check.
 
Here is how I fit 265/70/18's, stock wheels, inflated. Still working great. DrawTite hitch does not take away ANY clearance. The Curt 4-bolt did. OEM def would.
If you want to cut bumper you can do the OEM 4Runner hitch which also doesnt take away any clearance.

I needed the KDSS spacers to move the bar forward.

 
Here is how I fit 265/70/18's, stock wheels, inflated. Still working great. DrawTite hitch does not take away ANY clearance. The Curt 4-bolt did. OEM def would.
If you want to cut bumper you can do the OEM 4Runner hitch which also doesnt take away any clearance.

I needed the KDSS spacers to move the bar forward.


Hey thanks for that info! Ok so based on what you're saying, I'm guessing having that hitch receiver extension piece (with 4 bolts) will impede access to a larger spare, however (based on what I understand from your response) - if I move to a Drawtite hitch it won't impede access? I'm actually specifically looking to fit 265/70/18s ideally, so that would be perfect!

I'm still very new to the GX, we just purchased a couple weeks ago, after owning several 100 and 200 series in the past. So I don't have much (if any) experience with KDSS - I'll have to do some research into what KDSS spacers are - what are they? Does it affect the KDSS system negatively at all? Or just provide improved access to fit a larger spare?

Last question, what kind of tire do you run in the 265/70/18 size? (brand/model etc)? I'm guessing you'd have to do some inner fender trimming at bare minimum to fit that size.
 
DrawTite is curved at the “front” so it follows the contour of the crossmember. Gives a solid 1/4”+ compared to Curt which is straight across. That’s why the DrawTite sticks out further which is the only downside.

KDSS spacers go on easily. Floor jack under the bar. Add spacers. They make the bar lower but given its bends it moves it forward slightly. They are meant to correct the geometry when you lift the truck. With no lift they just add spare clearance. Only downside I see is the bar becomes about as low as the spare so if you do off-road it there is a higher chance of hitting the bar driving over rocks.

Look at the images I have in the post I linked above. The spacers are the black billet pieces not covered in the slimy Fluid Film that attach to the rear sway bar.

My 265/70/18s are Toyo ATIII takeoffs off a new 4Runner. They are standard load.

I took off the flaps in the front of the front wheel wells. I changed “the bolt” for a smoother one. I think this is also in my thread with pictures. No trimming yet. I get some slight scrub at full lock but haven’t even located it yet.
 
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DrawTite is curved at the “front” so it follows the contour of the crossmember. Gives a solid 1/4”+ compared to Curt which is straight across. That’s why the DrawTite sticks out further which is the only downside.

KDSS spacers go on easily. Floor jack under the bar. Add spacers. They make the bar lower but given its bends it moves it forward slightly. They are meant to correct the geometry when you lift the truck. With no lift they just add spare clearance. Only downside I see is the bar becomes about as low as the spare so if you do off-road it there is a higher chance of hitting the bar driving over rocks.

Look at the images I have in the post I linked above. The spacers are the black billet pieces not covered in the slimy Fluid Film that attach to the rear sway bar.

My 265/70/18s are Toyo ATIII takeoffs off a new 4Runner. They are standard load.

I took off the flaps in the front of the front wheel wells. I changed “the bolt” for a smoother one. I think this is also in my thread with pictures. No trimming yet. I get some slight scrub at full lock but haven’t even located it yet.
Thanks!

Just to clarify, when you're mentioning the drawtite hitch option, you're referring to the small receiver attachment with the 4 bolts that bolts to the crossmember, correct? Not the entire new hitch, right?
 
DRT-75685-2.jpg
Thanks!

Just to clarify, when you're mentioning the drawtite hitch option, you're referring to the small receiver attachment with the 4 bolts that bolts to the crossmember, correct? Not the entire new hitch, right?

Yes it is the small 4 bolt hitch that just bolts to bottom of crossmember. But that is also technically an entire new hitch. It’s just the Class3 compared to the big OEM Class4 hitch.

I think you are on the same page though.

Mine is actually the cheaper Amazon version of this. Just needs that curve at the top plate. I went this route since I only really use it for a rack too

Downside is the tube thickness is thinner and your rack can flop around more unless you shim it or your rack has means to take up receiver slop.
 
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