SOLVED Significant vibration post maintenance, lift and alignment (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 20, 2019
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Location
Bay Area CA
hi all. I was hoping to be documenting the build of my 06 GX here, but instead, im asking for help.

Bought with 115K miles - drives like a dream
@ 120K, all fluids (Oil, Trans, Diffs, Transfer case, Radiator and Brake fluid). All is well, drives like a dream

Then came lift and other maintenance @ 121K. Included: Fox 2.5 Factory race front and rear, Total Chaos UCA, OME springs, Brakes and new CVs (and seals), Fuel Wheels and Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 3 tires. No front diff spacers installed but I have them. bearings seemed fine.

After installing the lift, CV's and brakes, I drove it a bit, maybe noticing a little vibration but thought it may have been the more aggressive tires Did some fender trimming and dove again, didnt notice anything I thought was out of the ordinary. I figured all was well and then proceeded to set the level. Ended up with 3.5" in the front, took it for a drive around the block, but nothing stood out.

Next day, I took it for alignment and tire rebalance. picked it up, drove it home, in traffic so I didn't notice anything. Following morning, got on it getting onto the highway... could feel definite vibrations coming through the front end. seems to be between 35 and 50 MPH the most, but the more I drive, I can definitely feel it anytime I am on the throttle - harder throttle means more pronounced vibrations. Finally got up into the mountains, can feel more vibration with left and right turns, but left turns seems to be more.

ALSO, now I get a random front end noise... really loud at over 50. seems to almost sound like wind noise but more mechanical.. it seems to happen when there is a stiff cross wind. if I slow back down under 45, it goes away. I cant repeat it. I was driving along, noise is there, as soon as I was blocked from the cross wind, the noise was greatly reduced. the noise also changes when the suspension compresses and releases over the highway whoops. I almost thought it was the wind noise since I cut up the inner fenders and there is no skid plates back on, but this coupled with the vibration, im thinking its more

I looked into various forums on the vibration. most seem to go unanswered, point to CV's or needing a transmission flush. Ive done all of this.

anyone have any ideas on the vibration?? Wheel bearings? alignment issue? needs the Diff spacers? bad CV install?
on the unrepeatable front end noise... wind? Bearings? no splash guards installed (that's me grasping for straws!)

Chris
 
Brand on the CVs? Did you check the wheel bearings? Lift it up. Grab 12 and 6 and rock each wheel...any play it's the bearings
 
Cardone 66235HD on the CVs. Ill jack it up and check the bearings. I suppose just because it was good before, doesn't mean it would be good after bigger tires and lift!

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+1 on the CV's, most aftermarket CV's are are low quality.
 
Boot on the drivers side was wasted. It clicked really badly and you could feel a clunk on acceleration. No clunk anymore. figured best to replace both since it was all opened up and ready to go.
 
If you are up for some work, you can try swapping your one good OEM axle in the left side and see if that takes care of it (if it is more pronounced turning left). Just make sure your other bases are covered. I don't trust aftermarket axles at all, too many issues over the years with bad axles out of the box when I was wrenching in a shop. I got in the habit of feeling the range of motion on the cv before installation, usually you can feel them bind before installation.

I have the Fox Factory 2.5's with no CV angle issues; however, I am not running 3.5" of lift either.
 
If the bearings are good the cvs are the problem. Cardone are cheap for a reason.
 
3.5"

Go down. Youre too lifted for your CV angles. If you want to keep that height, FOR SURE do the diff drop spacers.
Look into axles from CVJreman.com. they are factory toyota/lexus remans using genuine OEM parts. You can also buy preassembled long travel axles from them.

Definitely sounds like youre getting CV binding. Im really surprised your upper arm isnt contacting the coil too or the uniball coming in contact with the cup...that angle is pretty excessive..
 
Negative on the diff drop. It doesn’t help much. Do the high angle CVs instead.
 
"High angle" CVs only have special boots, but they're standard axles (not counting long travel or RCV). I've been researching CVs myself and I'm starting to think the clicking I hear off road is from my cheap Napa's. Need to go back to OEM.

anyone have any ideas on the vibration?? Wheel bearings? alignment issue? needs the Diff spacers? bad CV install?
on the unrepeatable front end noise... wind? Bearings? no splash guards installed (that's me grasping for straws!)

Besides the already-mentioned aftermarket CVs, all I can think of is:

Wheel well plastic flapping in the wind (happened to me)
Tires rubbing on wheel well plastic (might explain the changes during suspension compression)
Extremely-worn LCA ball joints or bushings (or incorrectly torqued)
Pinion angle in rear might be off after lift causing rear drive shaft vibrations
The shop didn't balance your tires very well
If your wheels are lug-centric and not torqued in the right pattern they could be off-center vibrate

The effects of wind noise and suspension compression are super curious. Hope you figure it out!
 
My bad...I meant long travel CVs if you are really at 3.5” lift. What’s the hub to fender distance on the front?

3.5” lift is like over 24” hub to fender on the front.
 
thanks for the info guys! I just jacked it up. bearing on the driver side seems to be bad! no play on the passenger side, but definite movement (moving from 12 and 6) on the driver side. ill bet that's what the loud noise is for sure. I hope its the vibration too but am betting its the aftermarket CVs. wishing I kept the factory for rebuild.

@GXDude, thanks for the info on the CVs. ill look into them. any recommendation on bearings??

the hub center to fender is exactly 24". the ball joint on the UCA looks fine, about in the center when its standing on the wheels. I don't get any travel issues it seems but haven't really pushed it yet. Ill see about dropping it down some just to be safe. adjusting the FOX isn't easy... way better to have them out and compress the springs. maybe its easier lowering than raising??

the clocking on the reservoir is definitely wrong though. these shocks were for a 4 runner... apparently there is more room to mount them higher and therefore the hose fitting isn't a issue. I still need to look into that. Wheelers off road bailed when I asked them how to resolve that. when I mounts the resi's I have to twist them to get them mounted. the hose twists and interferes when the UCA is at full drop.
 
just looked at the ball joint again... should lower it some...

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Yea definitely bring her down about a half inch! Uniball is maxed out and preload is pretty cranked out! She should go down easier than up, for sure. I had issues with the damn resi Hoses too, my guy Jeremy at Fox said it’s the one issue that they have. I haven’t done it yet mysel , but I plan to release the no2, crack the fitting and reclock it so the hose doesn’t have those issues anymore.

For bearings, OEM or national. I wouldn’t mess with any others.
 
Solved! have not had a lot of time for the GX lately, but I finally got around to messing with it today. glad its not a daily! anyhow, diff drop solved the shudder. Simple 25 minute install and drives smooth now. drivers wheel bearing still have a tiny bit of play (from 12 and 6) but it doesn't seem to be making any vibration for the time being. ill see when I get it up in the twisty mountain roads next weekend. Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
Thanks for your thread. May I ask what you mean by diff drop? I’m new to the GX scene and am still learning. I too am having some mystery vibrations on a 2.5” lift.

thank you in advance!
 
Hi GX2004. I think you'll love the GX and IH8MUD forum, tons of knowledge here. The diff drop is a spacer that "drops" the front differential down. this effectively reduces the angle of the CV joints from the differential to the wheel hubs. many people say its not needed. I went based on that mindset but since mine if lifted up to the maximum, it proved to be necessary for me. I am still going to lower the front down a bit but the diff drop certainly solved my shudder/vibration issue.
 
@GXDude im wondering if you have done anything with the resi's? im eager to know how the clocking might be corrected. Ive tried to call Fox once or twice but never got anyone to call me back. my bike shock has even been there for 4 weeks being rebuilt. I love their products but think the post sale support lacks.
 
Thanks for the reply. I’ll see if I can find some options online and get a cost.
 

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