Solved - removing rim stuck on axle (1 Viewer)

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CharlieS

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Hi,

Looking for advice: I am doing a brake job on my 2001 lc. A rear rim is stuck on the axle flange and I'm having a bear of a time removing it.

All lug nuts are off, the rim is NOT seized to the brake hat (it has fore and aft movement), but it is stuck on the axle flange and I can't get it off.

I've used the old kick the tire, use a pick to make sure there aren't rocks or anything binding it, tried brake cleaner to clean it out, even tried some PB blaster to try to break down any corrosion. I've resorted to dropping the rig with the lug bolts finger tight, and bashing the tire with a sledge. No joy.

The only other thing I can think of is to put the lug nuts on finger tight and drive it slow speed back and forth on my driveway hoping the weight of the rig and physics loosen it.

Any been there, done that, kind of advice? What do the pros do?

Thanks,
Charlie
 
Based on title I'd have suggested BFH, but you state you've already had a sledge in your hand, and that's a BFH. I'd think that heat from a heat gun might help given that axle and wheel are two different metals and that might lead one to expand faster than the other and get it to let go.
 
Bashing the tire with sledge - come at it from the other side using a 2X4 long enough that you can give it a good swing from the other side - maybe use a brick to keep the end up in position. I might even pour a gallon of boiling water over the hub area before giving it a whack.

It that doesn't work you should leave the lug nuts on, but several turns out from contact with the rim. Lower the truck so the tire comes down on a block of wood only on the inner half, so the weight of the vehicle helps push at an angle. You could also maybe put a shoulder into it at that point if it still isn't breaking free.
 
Cancel the panicky cry for help, putting lug nuts almost all the way on and a little back and a little driveway turn around did the job. Thanks.

Leaving this here in case anyone needs it in a future search.

Thanks for the fast responses guys!
 
I found that there were little burrs on the inside of the rim, where it slips over the rotor. I filed them down, and now it goes a little bit easier. These hub-centric rims suck
 
I had a similar problem on my BMW. Jacked it up and while sitting on the ground kick the snot out of it a couple of times and broke the bond the mag chloride created between the rim and axel. Found out this is quite common where they use mag chloride on the roads for snow and ice. Keep it in mind!
 
A short length of 2x4 long-wise on the rim and a SERIOUS sledge- a 12lb sledge- swung with 1 arm while the other arm holds the 2x4 does it. It can take a ton of whacks though.

Anti-sieze paste liberally between the wheel and rotor next time. I basically paint the rotor dome silver with anti-seize and it's never a problem again.
 
My rim is also stuck to the flange but not to the rotor. Several 10mph swerves and panic braking have failed to free it. How dumb would it be to attach a toe strap around the rim and yank on it with a tractor? I am thinking about putting a decent size log under the axle so it cant fall off, then tugging with a front end loader first for some finesse then moving on to the drawbar.
 
My rim is also stuck to the flange but not to the rotor. Several 10mph swerves and panic braking have failed to free it. How dumb would it be to attach a toe strap around the rim and yank on it with a tractor? I am thinking about putting a decent size log under the axle so it cant fall off, then tugging with a front end loader first for some finesse then moving on to the drawbar.


You are in MD, so rust bowl capital of the US. lol you might yank the whole hub off that way, just be patient, spray some penetration fluid into the area where the wheel meets the flange and let it sit for a bit. You need to get to the backside of the tire and give it a good whack like it was a red headed step child.
 
Been dealing with this issue today while trying to replace rear brake pads. Ended up using an 8’ 2x4 and wedging it between the frame and tire. Plenty of PB oil and it eventually broke loose. Also trued rolling it over some 2x4 with lugs on loosely but it was the long 2x4 that did the job.

Now I’m cleaning the hub, wheel and brake drum with a wire brush and am wondering if I should use some silicone grease or something to prevent it from happening again. Cricky, I’d be up Schitt’s Creek if this happened off-road.

Suggestions for preventative maintenance? Thanks!
 
Been dealing with this issue today while trying to replace rear brake pads. Ended up using an 8’ 2x4 and wedging it between the frame and tire. Plenty of PB oil and it eventually broke loose. Also trued rolling it over some 2x4 with lugs on loosely but it was the long 2x4 that did the job.

Now I’m cleaning the hub, wheel and brake drum with a wire brush and am wondering if I should use some silicone grease or something to prevent it from happening again. Cricky, I’d be up Schitt’s Creek if this happened off-road.

Suggestions for preventative maintenance? Thanks!
Cleaning the hub and back of wheel of all crud, is first line of defense. Also helps with run-out.
 
Cleaning the hub and back of wheel of all crud, is first line of defense. Also helps with run-out.

Funny enough, I always have a hell of a time getting the RR wheel off of the Unicorn (and only the RR). I feel like the hub on that corner must be ever so slightly larger than the rest. The lugs on that corner always take additional torque after a short drive when the rest stay spot on.
 
lugs loosened, but still fairly tight, then gently bump into a curb with the tire has worked several times for me
 
Funny enough, I always have a hell of a time getting the RR wheel off of the Unicorn (and only the RR). I feel like the hub on that corner must be ever so slightly larger than the rest. The lugs on that corner always take additional torque after a short drive when the rest stay spot on.
Interesting. I do not recall that any issue with wheels stick off or on.

I'd inspect that hub closely. Sometimes the center protrusion gets damage or crud build-up, where wheel centers (hole) around it. The carfax did show RH side damage.
 

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