SOA vs. SUA

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36" if you plan to do some serius off road ( rocks . ? ) go with 4.88 .. but if is your DD and you love drive long distance .. go with 4.56.

My personal preference .. 4.88 :D
 
4.88 gives pretty close to stock speed. I want to be able to cruise at 70 with some decent mileage. Besides, 4.11's are easy to come by.

Alcans are about $200 a spring, but look like the best in the business. I think that I'll save up to get those. If I get the alcans in stock height, or plus one or two inches, that gives me 6-8 inches of lift, right? Does anyone have an SOA rig with 38's or 40's?


:beer:
 
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GLTHFJ60 said:
Does anyone have an SOA rig with 38's or 40's? :beer:

SOA with sotck ( flat ) springs gives 6" of lift ( easy :D ) and very very good flex.

I have SO + SR + 6" rear shackles + OME 2.5" springs = 37" MTR with plenty of room to 38" o more, and good flex.
 
Tapage,

So in addition, you have 8.5" of lift with the springs and the SOA conversion? Could one fit 38's under only 6" of lift?

:beer:
 
depends on if you want to cut or not
 
I'm guessing that cutting would be necessary with only 6" of lift? Any with 8"?

:beer:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I'm guessing that cutting would be necessary with only 6" of lift? Any with 8"? :beer:

Even less is my vote. Anyone have the bottom of framerail to ground measurements on their high lift SUA? I am SUA on Poo and had to do a cut and turn to have positive caster and driveline angles that would not bind. I am pointed right at the t-case now (double carden on the front and rear) and 4.0deg positive caster.

Framerail to ground right behind the front solid mount spring perch is 23" and 23.25" at the rear solid mount spring hanger. It was a 4" lift, with 35x12.5's, but has been customized since.

hth's

gb
 
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FYI
I got my SOA FJ60 "pretty close to stock" with 4.88's and 38.5's....
except nothings stock but the t-case, so the speedo/odom reads pretty close to stock at least

HTH

GLTHFJ60 said:
Looks like 4.11's with 38" tires is the right price at the right speed. 950 rpm's at 5 mph sounds pretty close to stock. I don't think that it will be a problem, do you?

:beer:
 
Just my two cents on this issue:

I actualy converted my truck from SOA to SUA. The reason at the time was all the welding that previous owner had done for new shock mounts and such had gone to s***. But anyways i am very glad i did the conversion. I found the SOA very top heavy on the road and off roading. When driving in the city, i had to slow down to almost nothing to take a corner. Anyway i would have to say SOA is cheaper and does get a little more clearence (gets U bolts out of the way), but SUA is much better set up and definatly worth the money!!
 
Great point!
Most FJ60 SOA that are done for rock crawling are not cheap though!
It's the tires/wheels/d-shafts/gearing snowball that adds up.
A SOA wagon is a purpose built vehicle, not to be taken lightly........anyways I drive mine in the city/highway too and it works great, I just drive slower so I don't tip over onto a Mini-C


andrew7elk said:
Just my two cents on this issue:

I actualy converted my truck from SOA to SUA. The reason at the time was all the welding that previous owner had done for new shock mounts and such had gone to s***. But anyways i am very glad i did the conversion. I found the SOA very top heavy on the road and off roading. When driving in the city, i had to slow down to almost nothing to take a corner. Anyway i would have to say SOA is cheaper and does get a little more clearence (gets U bolts out of the way), but SUA is much better set up and definatly worth the money!!
 
A guy localy here has 38's on a SUA. OME lift with a 3" body lift. He wheels it hard, and they fit fine.
 
Does he have pics of his setup? How does it look with the body lift?

:beer:
 
andrew7elk said:
I actualy converted my truck from SOA to SUA.

What's your relay rod angle, how's your bump steer, what's your caster, and can you have it locked in at any speed in 4H for winter driving on the street...or was your axle cut and turned for the SOA?

Thanks

gb
 
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GLTHFJ60 said:
Tapage,

So in addition, you have 8.5" of lift with the springs and the SOA conversion? Could one fit 38's under only 6" of lift?

:beer:

Add the shackle reversal and rear shackles to compensate. At this point I'm pretty sure as other said here, not always big is better. If you want to fit 38" with a regular SO ( stock springs ) maybe need to perform some little cuts on fenders, but if you ask me, I prefer it at more lift.
 
A guy localy here has 38's on a SUA. OME lift with a 3" body lift. He wheels it hard, and they fit fine.

Kinda off topic...not really...anyway, a guy i know near me has a FJ40 That he can fit 40" tires and still wheel. Its SUA without a body lift, ok i know everyone is thinking im full of sh*t, but im not, he moved his front fenders up higher on the body, and cut out his back fenders redesigning them so they are flat with the bed of the 40. He also extended his axels. Suprizing it still looks really good.
 
andrew7elk said:
Kinda off topic...not really...anyway, a guy i know near me has a FJ40 That he can fit 40" tires and still wheel. Its SUA without a body lift, ok i know everyone is thinking im full of sh*t, but im not, he moved his front fenders up higher on the body, and cut out his back fenders redesigning them so they are flat with the bed of the 40. He also extended his axels. Suprizing it still looks really good.
Sounds familar.

My 40 is 22" to the bottom of the frame with 40" IROKS.

That is about 6" taller than my 72 FJ40 with a shackle lift and 32's...

The more you cut the better off you are.

Unless you like mud.. Then taller is better for the most part.
 
Mace said:
Sounds familar.

My 40 is 22" to the bottom of the frame with 40" IROKS.

That is about 6" taller than my 72 FJ40 with a shackle lift and 32's...

The more you cut the better off you are.

Unless you like mud.. Then taller is better for the most part.


see "hard core with some :princess: added for Mace
 
Nah just the :princess:
 
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