Slow acceleration and shaking on highway (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 16, 2016
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Location
Doha, Qatar
So I just got my '94 three days ago, and I've already had to fill it with gas twice, but at least I was doing it with a smile on my face! :grinpimp:

I'm slowly trying to get all the kinks fixed. I've already changed the battery, fixed the headlights, and adjusted the hand-brake.

The two big issues I'm having now are:
1. The accelerator pedal is pretty stiff (not that big of a deal) but when I depress it all the way, I don't get the sudden response I should from the engine. Instead the truck accelerates slowly but surely.

2. When travelling at highway speeds, the truck shakes and vibrates pretty violently, and makes a loud noise. I thought it was wheel alignment, but as soon I let off the accelerator, the shaking and noise stops.
Any ideas? I greatly appreciate this forum and all your help.
 
1. Could be anything from fuel system components needing service like fuel filter, fuel sock all the way to kickdown on trans not properly adjusted.

To rule out, what happens when you press the 'PWR' button - do your shift points change to higher rpm's

2. Without better description, could be driveshafts, bad alignment, bad tire balance, combination of these.

---What motor is in your 80 since you're in Qatar? ~80% or better of us here have a 1FZ in a '94 since we're mostly USA spec owners.
 
1. Could be anything from fuel system components needing service like fuel filter, fuel sock all the way to kickdown on trans not properly adjusted.

To rule out, what happens when you press the 'PWR' button - do your shift points change to higher rpm's

2. Without better description, could be driveshafts, bad alignment, bad tire balance, combination of these.

---What motor is in your 80 since you're in Qatar? ~80% or better of us here have a 1FZ in a '94 since we're mostly USA spec owners.

Thanks for the reply. I'll experiment with the ECT button, and let you know its effects. As for the engine, I have the 1FZ-FE (fuel injection.)
 
1. Could be anything from fuel system components needing service like fuel filter, fuel sock all the way to kickdown on trans not properly adjusted.

To rule out, what happens when you press the 'PWR' button - do your shift points change to higher rpm's

2. Without better description, could be driveshafts, bad alignment, bad tire balance, combination of these.

---What motor is in your 80 since you're in Qatar? ~80% or better of us here have a 1FZ in a '94 since we're mostly USA spec owners.

I had a mechanic go under the truck and check the driveshaft really quick, and he said he saw no issues. So with regards to the vibrating and shaking at highway speeds, it's either alignment or tire balance?

I'm still experimenting with the ECT button, and I'll let you know what I've noticed.
Thanks in advance.
 
A miss fire is most evident under load. Sounds like you and your new Cruiser have a blossoming relationship that will quickly develop in the near future. I would start with the basics. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

Can you be more descriptive of the loud noise? Are you talking engine noise, or some kind of growling noise from the drive line? If it is driveline and the driveshafts seem OK, I would start by jacking up each corner and grabbing the tire at 12:00 and 6:00 positions, and see if the wheel bearings are loose. If you can shake a tire and hear or feel a knock, you may have a bad bearing at worst, or simply need to re adjust the preload at best. If everything is good there, the driveshafts will have to removed to check for a worn out u-joint. Might have a real sticky spot in the u-joint travel.

Congratulations on your new girlfriend!
 
Wondering if you might have a motor or transmission mount going out as well ? Ive not had issue like this w my Cruiser but when I had a mount go out on a Camry , it was alot like you are describing.
 
A miss fire is most evident under load. Sounds like you and your new Cruiser have a blossoming relationship that will quickly develop in the near future. I would start with the basics. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

Can you be more descriptive of the loud noise? Are you talking engine noise, or some kind of growling noise from the drive line? If it is driveline and the driveshafts seem OK, I would start by jacking up each corner and grabbing the tire at 12:00 and 6:00 positions, and see if the wheel bearings are loose. If you can shake a tire and hear or feel a knock, you may have a bad bearing at worst, or simply need to re adjust the preload at best. If everything is good there, the driveshafts will have to removed to check for a worn out u-joint. Might have a real sticky spot in the u-joint travel.

Congratulations on your new girlfriend!

Thanks for the pointers! It's difficult to identify where exactly the noise is coming from. It only happens after I hit about 110 km/h, and keeps happening at any faster speed. As soon as I go under that threshold, the noise is gone and the shaking stops.

Again, as soon as I let off the accelerator, the noise disappears. Maybe it is the mounts like @Slowguy432 is saying? Any other ideas?

I look forward to a (hopefully) long and fruitful relationship with my new Cruiser, and again thanks for all the help!
 
Just a thought, but you just adjusted the parking brake you mentioned, make sure there's no "drag" or resistance when it's fully disengaged. Easy to tell if you crawl under the truck and see if there's free play where the linkage goes into the backing plates (if you have rear discs that is). Im also curious, does the throttle pedal move smoothly, from being at rest to the floor? And does it rev normally, in park or neutral? (What I'm getting at, is I wonder if the cable moves smoothly, if not, and it's dry, frayed, or binding, that could be a part of the slow acceleration. You also mentioned the parking brake adjustment, so I wonder if the cables are all ok, or possible dry or binding in any way?) FWIW, my fiance has a GMC Terrain, and the Ute recently lost power and had a bad shake as well, and the transfer case went out, and that was the culprit. It's a completely different design, but nonetheless it was an internal part that caused this mess. It luckily was a warranty issue($3500.00) that saved us a hefty bill.
So, how are all the cables?!
 

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