Slee's 4" lift

[landtank]

The next time I'm in Boston for work, I'll be looking for a ride in your baby.

no problem, but let me get the caster straightened out first.

 

[landtank]

wow, that stuff of yours up front sure weighs a lot. You're only at 2.5" lift over stock based on your hub to flare number, far from the 4" nominal... )

well, the winch I chose is 50lbs lighter than the warn 12k. You have to remember that hanging all that weight out on the front has it's concesquences.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Landtank No my calculations are not wrong. I have measured several times before the lift to see if it would work and it is 7' I am 6'4" so I would know if it was 8'. stock with no lift and stock tires I had 11" of clearance without the rack. Then you add 6" lift and 2.5" tires so about 9" so I have maybe 2" of clearance maybe not 3-4" but close and that is with the rear spoiler on as well.

I went over and over the measurements before I got the lift because everyone kept telling me it wouldn't fit....but as my measurements proved before the lift it does. wouldn't with the rack, however.

Actually the tires are about 34" when measured with weight so clearance is problably about 3" or 3.25". but my door retracts all the way past the opening.

Something is definately not making sense here. Yesterday, I went into a parking garage that had a 7' warning marker out front. My '97 with j's and 35's had exactly 1.5" from the rear of the roof ract to the marker. Take the rack off add 2ish more inches and it would be dang close.....no way in hell the stock rack is 5 inches high!

 

[clarkrw3]

Ok so 1.5" and take off the 2-3" roof rack and then add 2" ... It still fits. My lift center of hub to flare is the same as others with the 6" so that is correct I do have the 6" lift ..... so 1.5 + 2-3= 3.5 to 4.5 and then -2 for lift = 2.5" of clearance aprox.

here are pics
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55932&page=2&highlight=build+thread

 

[OGBeno]

Rick--

That's a really great looking rig. You have obviously put a lot of work and thought into it.

Great lines and a really beefy look to it without being too 'big'.

Thanks for sharing.

Best.
-onur

 

[Uncle Ben]

Ok so 1.5" and take off the 2-3" roof rack and then add 2" ... It still fits. My lift center of hub to flare is the same as others with the 6" so that is correct I do have the 6" lift ..... so 1.5 + 2-3= 3.5 to 4.5 and then -2 for lift = 2.5" of clearance aprox.

here are pics
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55932&page=2&highlight=build+thread

Guess my mental math is more mental than math... Still scratching my head but thats normal...

 

[FirstToy]

2.5" lifted 80 is terrifying in a parking garage, I can't imagine a 4 or 6!
Slee 6 works like a mofo on the trail tho

 

[clarkrw3]

6" 315's in a 7' garage w/o rack

 

[alia176]

I went outside and measured the same distances that Landtank have:

22.5" front (lip to center of hub)
23.5" rear ( " " )

So as Landtank stated earlier, the lift is about the same as 850J/863 combo but the rates are different. So, does this mean that I have a 4" lift currently with my 850J/863 combo?

As far as garage door clearance, I have about 2" max of room between roof and door (no roof rack).

 

[landtank]

Alia, what do you have on the front of that truck? Putting a number on a spring set regarding lift is a little arbitrary. What you end up with as far as how much higher it is in the end has to do with how much weight there is resting on them.

 

[Kalawang]

If I spend less time on Mud, I might get the website update done.

Corrections that need to be made to suspension components are the same for 4" and 6". However we spec the caster plates for the 4" lift and not the arms. Also with 4" people might choose to ignore stuff like the panhards and the effects might not be so obvious as with the 6".

However the 4" is recommended for people that want good clearance for 315's and does a lot of highway driving. Both kits drive good on the road, but a 4" lifted truck is just less to handle on a daily bases. People that want to push true 35's and bigger go for the 6".

In short, if it is a toy, go for 6" and play hard, if it is the family hard core wagon, go for 4".

Great advice.

An added factor in favor of the 4" lift is that 33's don't look all that bad on them so if you're not planning to do any re-gearing, you can maintain reasonable acceleration and climbing ability plus fuel economy with the 4" lift.

Word of warning though. Keep your right side mirror oriented slightly low to watch out for those slammed cars sneaking in under your shoulders.


Kalawang

 

[alia176]

Alia, what do you have on the front of that truck? Putting a number on a spring set regarding lift is a little arbitrary. What you end up with as far as how much higher it is in the end has to do with how much weight there is resting on them.

I have the same identical bolt on as you plus:
York and dual batt up front
rear cargo drawer in rear

edit: pic didn't turn out so great. Where was that thread on how to resize pics?

 

[landtank]

Alia, rear bumper doesn't seem to be there and can't tell if you have sliders.


But the drawers might equal out to the bumper. Anyway pretty much the same stance.

 

[alia176]

Yup the rear bumper is there. Don't have the tire on the carrier in that pic though. With the spare tire, the rear goes down about 1/2" or so. I agree, the stance looks similar and the distances between the flare and hub center are identical.

 

[cruiserdan]

Ali also has a subtank. His rear bumper is quite substantial as well.

 

[landtank]

It would have been good if I had compared the spring height of the rears as I did the fronts to get an idea of how the height is acheived (length or rate). But if I had to guess I'd say the rear springs are the same rate as the 863s but are longer.