Slave Cylinder Rod Alignment (1 Viewer)

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I'm kicking myself for not taking pictures of my slave cylinder setup before tearing everything apart. I've got the H42 installed on my 72' FJ40 (it already has a 2F), and you can see from the first picture things aren't lining up well. The other pictures are gratuitous. Any thoughts on a slave cylinder from the appropriate year making a difference? Maybe the bosses are thicker? If not, I'll just turn some spacers on the lathe and space it out (although the rod already comes quite close to the body).

For all I know, this also lined up poorly with the 3speed shift fork (which I've misplaced). Other thoughts include:
This spring seems unnecessary.
The motor mount bolts are installed only for testing, which is why the nut isn't on all the way.
The thin bracket below the slave (last pic) was someone else's invention.
slave_cylinder_1.jpg
slave_cylinder_2.jpg
slave_cylinder_3.jpg
slave_cylinder_4.jpg


slave_cylinder_1.jpg
 

lcwizard

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There are three different slave cylinders with different offsets. The 60 series is different. Try something post 1985. but you'll have to match the
clutch fork. Early forks had a hole for the slave rod to pass through. 60 series did not. They were considered self adjusting. You can't mix and match
slaves and forks.
 
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lcwizard

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.....and the throw out arm is different also....I can't see what you have. The early slave had an adjuster nut the late did not. The ratio on early
throw out arms were different than later
 
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lcwizard

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Basically, if you installed a 60 series bell housing and transmission, match the fork and slave to the correct year of the transmission
 

Dynosoar

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I thought all H42 / 2f combos had the slave cylinder on the (US) Passenger side not the driver side.

Maybe the bellhousing pad is different on the Driver side?

Dyno
 

lcwizard

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I thought all H42 / 2f combos had the slave cylinder on the (US) Passenger side not the driver side.

Maybe the bellhousing pad is different on the Driver side?

Dyno
the market is saturated with parts from all over now. No telling what's out there. I've done more than one swap where I absolutely had to use the 60 series arm and slave to get the clutch to work right. The bosses on the late slave are taller and offset more than early so the slave pushes out and down. The clutch arm ratio also changed
 

Dynosoar

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Just shim it out until you have acceptable alignment. Use spacers or stack some washers.
 
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Thanks everyone, that's a lot of great info (and pics!). I have no idea where my trans came from, but I have a feeling I have a 60 trans and fork and a 40 bellhousing (I've had to source parts from all over). I think I'll just space it and go for now.
 

pbgbottle

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When I converted mine from passenger side to drivers side I had to mount
My slave upside down for better alignment. Just make sure to bleed it before flipping it over ,that may get you closer to alignment. May be worth a try.
 
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When I converted mine from passenger side to drivers side I had to mount
My slave upside down for better alignment. Just make sure to bleed it before flipping it over ,that may get you closer to alignment. May be worth a try.
The weird thing is, I have a feeling mine was already upside-down (I didn't take pictures) because of how the hose has relaxed. I had to fight it a bit to twist it right side up. I'll check that again.
 

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