Side Mirrors Not Working

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KYLandy

KYLandy

Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Threads
11
Messages
188
Location
Louisville, KY
I have already searched the forum:

Search Results for Query: side mirror fuse | IH8MUD Forum

but could not find a solution. I only have a 2004 FSM and it seems to be different as to fuse locations, circuits and names. In case it doesn't show up in my signature, this is a 2006 LC.

I'm not sure when the mirrors stopped working since I don't adjust them. I went through an automatic car wash and folded the mirrors in when we drove through so I don't know if that had an effect or not. Also, several of the components near the mirror adjusting switches are not backlit. Since they have always been that way, I don't know if all of them SHOULD be backlit or not. Since rear window vent button for the DS is lit, I presume that the rear window vent button for the PS should be lit also. As for the mirrors and the TPMS, I have no idea if they should be backlit or not. It's hard to see but the only lights are on the DS vent and the RSCA switch.

Lower DS panel.webp


I have tried all fuses related to the mirrors and it appears that there isn't one specifically for the mirror adjusting function. There is a fuse for the mirror heaters #6. I checked #18 along with the others because it was mentioned in another post that the mirrors were on the ECU-B2 circuit. That fuse is fine, too. This is from the 2006 owner's manual:

upload_2017-2-5_17-39-1.webp


All of the fuses (0-28) are in the engine compartment fuse box.

The rest of the fuse locations:

upload_2017-2-5_17-39-41.webp


upload_2017-2-5_17-40-1.webp


I'm gonna guess it is the switch, unless someone knows which fuse it is. Everything else works on the vehicle. I tried every function to find something that wasn't working and it all works. I was hoping that I would find something else on the same circuit that wasn't working.

If it is the switch, does anyone know how to get to the back of the switch to test it? Do I need to remove the lower cowling or does the switch just pop out forward? If so, can someone post a procedure that describes how to remove the panel and subsequently the mirror switch?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
I thought I had some pictures, but I cannot find them.

On my 4Runner, I had a torn trace on the board for the switch. I think the passenger mirror would not work but the driver's would. Anyway, I just soldered the traces back together. That was at least 4 years ago, still going strong.

You can pull the switch apart with a couple of picks or small flat screwdrivers. check the printed circuit board traces for issues, usually wear where the switch slides side to side.
 
For an 06 LC:
Check ACC (7.5A) fuse.

Everything appears to run through the switch. This is really the only fuse to check. I really stress at least testing the switch. This is the most likely failure point. I can provide info on testing.

The LC is much simpler than the LX:

For an 06 LX:
From the Wiring Diagram, Check ECU-IG1 (10A), DOOR (25A), ECU-B2 (10A), ACC (7.5A), GAUGE2 (10A). Those are all the fuses on the mirror circuit.

There are 3 ECUs involved in the operation of the mirrors.

Does putting the switch in R or L positions and switching to reverse dip the mirrors?
Does hitting the memory buttons change the positions of the mirrors?
 
I don't get any movement on any mirror in any switch position or up down left or right. That is why I thought it was a fuse. I don't think I have memory buttons. Where would they be if I had them?
 
Also, my mirrors don't dip when in reverse. I believe that might be an LX thing. At least I have never notice them doing that. Perhaps the mirrors haven't worked correctly since I bought it. Don't know for sure.
 
Following. My mirrors on my '00 LX work fully with the exception that they only dip into "reverse mode" half the time. Thought it was the switch position first, but have confirmed multiple times that is not the case.
 
The mirror switch crapped out on my lx. Not the adjustment switch but the fold out function. In the process of trying to repair it at the moment.
 
Memory might be LX only. It is on the door panel, 3 buttons: SET, 1, and 2.

I'll try to get the testing procedure tomorrow when I get home from work. Double check that 7.5 amp fuse. I would try replacing it, I've had a few fuses that tested fine but would not work.
 
seanz0rz said:
Memory might be LX only. It is on the door panel, 3 buttons: SET, 1, and 2.

I'll try to get the testing procedure tomorrow when I get home from work. Double check that 7.5 amp fuse. I would try replacing it, I've had a few fuses that tested fine but would not work.
Click to expand...

If it tested fine but wouldn't work than you're testing it wrong
 
seanz0rz said:
For an 06 LC:
Check ACC (7.5A) fuse.
Click to expand...
It seems to me that other things wouldn't be working if the ACC fuse was bad. If the testing procedure is the same as the 2004 LC, then I have the testing procedure in the 2004 FSM. I just need to know how to get the switch out. Does it pop out forward if you pry it or do I need to remove the lower panel under the steering wheel?
 
I agree that you should have other problems if the ACC fuse was bad, but still check it. Switch should pop forward. Should be exactly the same as the 04 FSM.

As for testing fuses, I have had a hand full over the years visually appear to be OK but were not when tested either with a continuity tester or with load. I have had 2 or 3 test fine with the continuity tester, but not work when load is applied. Never had the time to figure out why. I suspect it burned up but was still touching enough to provide continuity on the DMM but not carry any appreciable current.
 
seanz0rz said:
I agree that you should have other problems if the ACC fuse was bad, but still check it. Switch should pop forward. Should be exactly the same as the 04 FSM.

As for testing fuses, I have had a hand full over the years visually appear to be OK but were not when tested either with a continuity tester or with load. I have had 2 or 3 test fine with the continuity tester, but not work when load is applied. Never had the time to figure out why. I suspect it burned up but was still touching enough to provide continuity on the DMM but not carry any appreciable current.
Click to expand...

That can definitely happen and has happened to me causing hours of wasted time. Best way to test a fuse is by measure voltage on both sides while it is plugged in and powered. That way you'll see a voltage drop across the fuse if it is partially burnt. That being said, I normally only use that Method if I'm getting abnormal voltage at a load,switch, etc.
 
Fixed my mirrors. The connector wasn't inserted all the way. Must've been the dealer that left it that way because I have never been in there. I'm sure they pulled the LH cowling to check out the AHC when I dropped it off at the dealer shortly after I bought it. Plugged connector in and everything works fine. Thanks for all the tips! When I removed the blank next to it, I just reached in and pushed it forward until it clicked. Lucky me!
 
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