Shutter(long)

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Joined
Nov 9, 2006
Threads
101
Messages
513
Location
Alpharetta GA
Ok I will try and make this as pain free as possible. My 4runner has an old school rancho 3" kit with upper arms, a front subframe drop and balljoint spacers with stock torsion bars not cranked. I have auto hubs with a front diff supposedly from a 89-95 pickup. I am running 33x12.50 BFG AT's with 5.29 gears and an open front diff. The rear has 80 series rear coils and a track bar drop bracket and 5.29 gears with a full detroit. This runner was purchased from a friend with it already put together like thiis. The front d-shaft is out to allow the sway bar to stay on(poser I know). Finally onto my question. When I am turning at speeds greater than 5mph especially when the roads are wet the front end shutters and vibrates like the tires are skipping or the 4wd was engaged. Of course the front drive shaft is out so I don't know how this would be possible. My buddy tells me since the front end is from a pickup he had to disconnect some sort of vacumn actuated disconnect for the 4wd. So he says all I need to do is swap out the hubs to the aisin manuals. He has a spare set and he says it is a straight forward easy swap. Has anyone swapped from auto to manual hubs? Does any of this make sense? I miss my solid axle front ends. :doh:
 
Sounds like the front diff is locked and the auto hubs are locking up and causing a binding maybe... pull one of the auto hubs off and take it for a spin, if the shaking goes away then the diff is not an open diff...

And yes, swapping from auto hubs to manual is pretty straight forward....
 
Thanks for all the input. I do have a torn cv boot but no clicking yet. He thought at first when he bought the front diff it might have had a true-trac in it but the guy he bought it from wasn't sure either and when turning one side it spun freely. I'm going to try to swap out the hubs this weekend and replcae the boot and see what happens.
 
You don't have Auto hubs. You have that stupid ADD system, with drive flanges on your front wheels. Even though the Rancho lift has lowered the front diff, th ball joint spacers are flexing the CV's out of their design angle, so they are really complaining when you are turned.

Swap the drive flanges out for manual hubs, unlock the hubs, and the stuttering will go away.

Be prepared to buy a lot of CV shafts if you go wheeling.
 
As long as the hubs are unlocked, the CVs will last forever because they will no longer be spinning. But if you lock the hubs, then they are spinning again. Going off-road puts a lot of strain on driveline components, and the CVs will see a lot of abuse, something they're not good at taking.
 
Ok. I know the ifs front ends are weak but have never really wheeled one. I figured with just 33's and an open front diff the front end shouldn't explode on me. If it is indeed locked I know I will need to be more careful. The runner did have 35's on it before I bought it but elected to go smaller for one of these reasons.
 
Ouch. Oh well, I guess it will give me a reason in the future to straight axle it when its not my daily driver. There was some sort of recall on a steering arm but I haven't taken it to toyota since it's lifted. Does this recall help out at all?
 
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