Should Sliders Ever Fail? (1 Viewer)

[Idaho Savage]

So I'm now debating fabbing my own sliders based on the simplicity of the project vs. relative cost. I've built bumpers before, winch plates, headache racks and a few other items so I'm pretty comfortable with my Hobart.

I was taught that the gauge of steel should never exceed that of the frame when building bumpers so that should you hit something, the bumper will fail before the frame and you won't total your vehicle. This makes sense to me.

Is there similar a logic to Sliders? I would most likely bolt them on (definitely not weld).

Thanks in advance.

 

[orangeboxxfab]

I look at it this way when building a set of sliders for the FJ Cruiser. I never want them to fail. If using existing holes and not making new ones for the sliders they should never give out before the frame does.

 

[suprarx7nut]

The stress sliders exert on the 100 series frame (at least in the typical mounting I've seen) would be less than the stress exerted on the sliders themselves. The mounting will distribute the force and make it likely that even when the sliders are stronger, they will yield before the frame will. Hopefully that makes sense. The sliders will usually see a huge point load, while the frame will see that same load distributed across the mounting points, making for far lower stress on any given frame location.

IMO, if you are in a situation where you could permanently yield the frame of the 100, you're going to want all the protection you can get. You would have to absolutely SLAM down on your sliders to tweak the frame by my estimation. I can't imagine a typical trail incident tweaking the frame, but rather an accident on the road where any additional frame reinforcement would be welcome.

I would make the sliders and their mounting points as strong as possible.

 

[hoser]

Typical 100 series sliders use 3/16" (.1875) rectangle tubing on the main and .120 wall x 1.5 (or 1.75) DOM on the outer rub rails. My rectangle tubing has no significant dents, my .120 wall rub rails have several dents. My frame is dent/damage free.

 

[Layonnn]

One of the things I like about having robust sliders that stick out is that they are at the height of most vehicle bumpers. So I'm a side collision, they will be the first thing to take the impact and slow the other vehicle down, not the door and the crossbeam in it. It's the first mod I do to all of mine and get them as beefy as they make. Mine are 3/16" DOM from white knuckle off-road.

 

[Idaho Savage]

The stress sliders exert on the 100 series frame (at least in the typical mounting I've seen) would be less than the stress exerted on the sliders themselves. The mounting will distribute the force and make it likely that even when the sliders are stronger, they will yield before the frame will. Hopefully that makes sense. The sliders will usually see a huge point load, while the frame will see that same load distributed across the mounting points, making for far lower stress on any given frame location.

IMO, if you are in a situation where you could permanently yield the frame of the 100, you're going to want all the protection you can get. You would have to absolutely SLAM down on your sliders to tweak the frame by my estimation. I can't imagine a typical trail incident tweaking the frame, but rather an accident on the road where any additional frame reinforcement would be welcome.

I would make the sliders and their mounting points as strong as possible.

Typical 100 series sliders use 3/16" (.1875) rectangle tubing on the main and .120 wall x 1.5 (or 1.75) DOM on the outer rub rails. My rectangle tubing has no significant dents, my .120 wall rub rails have several dents. My frame is dent/damage free.

Extremely helpful. Thanks all. When I start I'll be sure to document it.