Should I drive it or have it shipped?

[Old Nick]

We did another fly and drive recently... flew from KY to Houston to buy a 2011 LX570 with a camper/trailer. We took a couple of days to do the drive back home so that we could enjoy ourselves and get to know the new rig. So, that's my second vote for a fly and drive... lol.

And, a week after getting home the radiator in the new rig spring a leak (oem @137k miles on the clock). Was hoping to squeeze a bit more out of the original, but once parts show up, the LX is getting all new heating cooling hoses/radiator/water pump/accessory belt and the valley plate resealed... because that would be the next thing to go... lol.

 

[themeat]

I never updated you guys on my trip from Houston to New York. So I left Houston at 5am on Saturday drove to my cousins house just south of Raleigh,NC. Got there around 10pm, so that leg took just under 17 hours. Just stopping for gas, restroom and snacks. Stayed overnight, and left for Long Island, New York around 6am. Pulled into my driveway about 6 in the evening, so that part of the drive took 12 hours. So in the 29 hour drive, not one issue with the Land Cruiser! Was a little unsure in the beginning, but as the drive progressed, the more comfortable I felt. Love the way it drove and my body actually felt pretty good for the amount of time I spent in the LC.

 

[themeat]

Some pics of the old gal

 

[Kernal]

"There are ways to protect the underside of the vehicle"

IME it's not just the underside you need to protect, and we aren't talking about "undercoating". IMO/IME you need to protect virtually every cavity (blind, hidden, ----), every frame rail and cross-member, radiator supports, inner fenders, outer fenders, quarter panels (cavities), every bracket, every component in the engine bay, brake lines, emergency brake components, hood, tail gate, rear hatch, doors, frame openings (windshield, rear hatch, rear body opening (under/behind the weatherstrips), rocker panels, anywhere there is seam sealer (doors, hood, tail gate, hatch), etc, etc, etc.

IME everything will be exposed to salt brine ie: even the smallest unnoticed seep/drip of rain water/salt brine (from road salt) can trickle into a few dozen locations which will start eating away at the vehicle from the inside out. Example: The reason there are drip holes in the bottom of doors (hatch, tailgate, etc) is because water normally seeps past the belt molding into the door cavity and out the bottom. But there are other cavities where water (and salt brine) can get trapped inside (quarter panels for example), those are some of the most critical to treat IMO/IME.


All that might sound like OCD but trust me, you're better off having it protected now before it sees it's first winter up North.

Here's one option on Long Island:

Corrosion Protection | Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.

The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.

www.waxoyl-usa.com

Waxoyl Application Centers | Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.

The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.

www.waxoyl-usa.com

About Randall’s – Why Our Auto Body Repair and Restoration Services is the Best

Randall’s Auto Body is a full-service restoration and auto body repair shop specializing in the care and restoration of hi-end vehicles.

randallsautobodyny.com

 

[osaga]

Looks like a beautiful example of the greatest car ever made. For modernization I would recommend a Sony xav-9000es (screen quality and features) for CarPlay integration and some new speakers (Morel or Focal are great), and a backup camera. You'll have to also replace or bypass the factory amp (under the front passenger seat) and find a reverse trigger wire (for the camera) and headlight trigger wire (to dim the head unit screen at night). There's some good info here about it.

If the headlights seem dim you can swap out the 9006 halogen low beams for 9011 halogen bulbs. They're brighter. Just have to clip some plastic off at the base of the bulb to fit them.

Also, in case it hasn't been mentioned yet, replace the heater tees immediately unless you know they were replaced within the last 10-ish years. It's a 10 min job with this tool. No need to drain the coolant since they're on top of the engine.

 

[themeat]

"There are ways to protect the underside of the vehicle"

IME it's not just the underside you need to protect, and we aren't talking about "undercoating". IMO/IME you need to protect virtually every cavity (blind, hidden, ----), every frame rail and cross-member, radiator supports, inner fenders, outer fenders, quarter panels (cavities), every bracket, every component in the engine bay, brake lines, emergency brake components, hood, tail gate, rear hatch, doors, frame openings (windshield, rear hatch, rear body opening (under/behind the weatherstrips), rocker panels, anywhere there is seam sealer (doors, hood, tail gate, hatch), etc, etc, etc will be exposed to salt brine ie: even the smallest unnoticed seep/drip of rain water/salt brine (from road salt) can trickle into a few dozen locations which will start eating away at the vehicle from the inside out. Example: The reason there are drip holes in the bottom of doors (hatch, tailgate, etc) is because water normally seeps past the belt molding into the door cavity and out the bottom. But there are other cavities where water (and salt brine) can get trapped inside (quarter panels for example), those are some of the most critical to treat IMO/IME.


All that might sound like OCD but trust me, you're better off having it protected now before it sees it's first winter up North.

Here's one option on Long Island:

Corrosion Protection | Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.

The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.

www.waxoyl-usa.com

Waxoyl Application Centers | Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.

The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.

www.waxoyl-usa.com

About Randall’s – Why Our Auto Body Repair and Restoration Services is the Best

Randall’s Auto Body is a full-service restoration and auto body repair shop specializing in the care and restoration of hi-end vehicles.

randallsautobodyny.com

that is the plan before winter arrives. Thanks for the Waxoyl mention, I will look into them.

 

[themeat]

Looks like a beautiful example of the greatest car ever made. For modernization I would recommend a Sony xav-9000es (screen quality and features) for CarPlay integration and some new speakers (Morel or Focal are great), and a backup camera. You'll have to also replace or bypass the factory amp (under the front passenger seat) and find a reverse trigger wire (for the camera) and headlight trigger wire (to dim the head unit screen at night). There's some good info here about it.

If the headlights seem dim you can swap out the 9006 halogen low beams for 9011 halogen bulbs. They're brighter. Just have to clip some plastic off at the base of the bulb to fit them.

Also, in case it hasn't been mentioned yet, replace the heater tees immediately unless you know they were replaced within the last 10-ish years. It's a 10 min job with this tool. No need to drain the coolant since they're on top of the engine.

Thanks! The interior is just as nice as the exterior. Upgrading the sound system and adding a backup camera is on the list. The headlights are pretty bright in my opinion and the heater tees were done on '24, so we are good on those for a while.

 

[Live to Ski]

double bonus: has the orignial anti-vibration weight.