Shop 'Build' for 2014

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Wheelingnoob said:
For heating and cooling could you not set up a heat pump for the shop and house (have no idea how they work). But if you could use one heat pump for both the house and the shop that would provide cooling in the summer and heat in the winter it maybe a win win. With the cheaper cost of gas up there it maybe an option. I have just been house sitting a friends place with one and its nice waking into a dry 22c house. Just a thought, no idea how they work.
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Air-to-air heat pumps extract or dump heat into the ambient air at some temperature differential - works like a fridge that is reversible. They work well at cooling - but nearl 40F they begin to produce heat in electric resistance mode which is more expensive than burning natural gas.
The ideal and more expensive option is to have gas heat for winter and the heat pump for summer and the shoulder months.
 
wrongway around said:
Carriage house layout roughed in is all you need to do ,minimum cost for big potential return down the road. Fiber is a fiberglass hair like bonding material you can put in the mix for strength,better than mesh I figure. Cheaper to put it in the truck than to order it in the load. Running a few zones of in floor water pipe for heat is cheap too. Sleeves are PVC or whatever pipe you put in under or through something ,so you can fish something through it later(AC,gas, low volt ,cable ,cat ,phone speakers ,water ,etc). A vault is a vault ,just a pit or even just a cut out framed for an access door,can be any size even gaining access to the whole underneath the slab if you build a suspended or monolithic slab.
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gotcha thar mate' - the conduit (sleeves) sounds like a wise move.
 
Hi Glen
Congrats on the new home and wishing lots of luck with your new garage.
Lots of great comments and suggestions for your new garage.

We did a lot of wrenching on our race car at a friends place in Langley and vowed not to work on cold floors or a cold garage.
Here is what we did for our garage which we build in 1992. Dimension are W27'x D28'x H15'.
Build the foundation so I could pour floor and foundation at the same time, (mono-pour) one pour vs two.
When I formed up the foundation I insulated with (R10) 24 inch wide vertically with PT 2x3 installed between each vertical piece of insulation. The PT 2x3 are used as nailing strips for the sheet metal afterwards.
The concrete slab was also insulated with (R12).
The exterior insulation was covered up with painted 26 gauge sheet metal.
Radiant heat pipes were placed on 6 inch centers, more water in the system the less often the the boiler or in my case hot water tank would cycle on and off. I used the hot water tank because it was/is much cheaper that a boiler and if you do the insulation right and sweat the insulation details you can minimize the heat loss. Except when the overhead door gets opened. But because of the mass of heat in the floor it doesn't take long to get warm in the garage.
The other type of heating system that I considered was the ceiling mounted gas fired commercial hot air blower. I didn't like the noise from those units.
Hand framed the roof in order to get a vaulted ceiling, used collar ties to provide an area for storage. One could also use an attic truss.
Wood frame was all 2x6 which was insulated with R20 fibreglass batt.
Used 2" and 1" conduits for both air and for electrical have 200 amp panel.
Brought in cable and phone lines .(No internet back then.)
Have water which is a frost free set up for outside. Used plywood in lieu of drywall on several the high traffic. Also makes electrical changes easy as well as mounting
Lighting was fluorescent strip lighting installed on every collar tie.
Natural light via 1'x1' glass blocks and 2'x4' skylights.
Overhead garage door was a 22' steel insulated with a 1HP motor.
Made my own overhead door weather stripping as I have never liked the ones that come with the door package.
Man door steel insulated as well.
Installed an alarm system and of course the all important fridge.:cheers:
 
Thank you for your time and ideas.
Glenn
 
neoworm said:
Maybe it's been mentioned (I didn't read every post) but put a s***ter in there Glenn. At the very least a urinal. You'll thank me later. lol.
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Many municipalities only allow for 1 plumbing fixture (that being a sink) in a detached secondary accessory building. Now if you added an in ground pool that rule could change as you can have 3 plumbing fixtures or Kelowna could allow a bathroom. Check your local bylaws before you design for a bathroom.
 
They allow a two piece (sink/toilet) - no shower. My zoning does not allow a carriage house, where in the city it does.
 
Tried the epoxy on floors, it suck when fabricating, left burn marks all over.. I would recommend a surfacing of the floor, polishing grinding it, I was told it would seal the floor?

Radiant heated floors a the stuff, if you think you need ac that's cool, but I found a shop with doors in the front and on the back would stay fairly cool..

In saying this, we had a super hot summer and I wished we had air in the metal supermarkets shop..:popcorn:
 
Diesel Cruiserman said:
Tried the epoxy on floors, it suck when fabricating, left burn marks all over.. I would recommend a surfacing of the floor, polishing grinding it, I was told it would seal the floor?
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I went with a machined surfacing on my shop floor which sounds like a polish grind and it works quite well. I don't think it stains much if any.
 
kim said:
I went with a machined surfacing on my shop floor which sounds like a polish grind and it works quite well. I don't think it stains much if any.
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Sounds like the same process, again if you do not turn on the welder or torches its OK to epoxy, I liked my garage floor quite well for the first year..

Rob:beer:
 

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Looks great! That, Sir is a freaking estate! Do you have a guy named Higgins looking after it for you?

Actually- it looks more like a 'Plantation'!

Nothing to add re garage, but I hope for an invitation sometime...
 
Overall looks good.
Things I would add/change.

Would add a location to have a winch mounted on the ceiling .
Ask to have a few of your trusses specified to be a girder truss or trusses if you want more than one pic point. That way you could use this location or multiple to pick up items with a winch.
Another thought would be an attic truss if you do not need a vaulted area over door #1 and #3.

Would add a two foundation walls or a few piers so that the slab has some addition supports.
Compact the fill and garvel with a big 500 or 1000lbs plate tamper.
Use a diamond saw to cut make some control joints the day after the pour which you can fill with a Dow 795 structural silicone. Use a Hydrozo Silane 40 or a similar water based product for a sealer for the concrete and yes power trowel the concrete slab and add a hardener while doing so. This will give you a great finish and also a hard concrete floor. The epoxy finishes that I have used work great but are very spendy.

Insulation below grade on the outside of the foundation needs to be protected with eg delta mat or similar.
On homes where we have insulated on the exterior below grade we have used brown aluminum sheet metal to protect the insulation. Stucco in this location of the foundation wall will look messy from the rain drops hitting the ground or dirt which will then splash on the stucco.

When you pour the concrete slab form it so that the the heated slab is finished in the middle of your overhead doors.Want to create a thermal break here, besides if you use asphalt for the driveway then you don't have the concrete slab sticking out.
Skin the interior walls with plywood instead of drywall. Use screws, easy to add or change things.
Install conduits under the slab and also to the exterior for future use.
Three way lock on man door and get sliding bolts on the overhead doors.
Use lami glass on windows to prevent easy break ins.
Insulated steel overhead doors, they are stiffer and have a bit of an r-value. Weather trip the doors.
Use frost free hose bibs for the exterior if you want water outside.
Two more lights on garage overhead door wall.
Could use a hot water tank to heat your floors, have done this in a few detached garage/shops.
Insulation, the more you insulate and be good in detailing the less it will cost to heat.

That's it for the typing as I need to get some things done around here.
Good luck with the build, contact me if you would to discuss.
 
sailor said:
Looks great! That, Sir is a freaking estate! Do you have a guy named Higgins looking after it for you?

Actually- it looks more like a 'Plantation'!

Nothing to add re garage, but I hope for an invitation sometime...
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Move to Kelowna and you can get your estate too ...
 
Nice looking property Glenn! Shop plans look quite good, little small though.....;)

I would add in or provide provision for a monorail over whatever section would be your potential fabrication bay. If you have the budget for it, a bridge crane would be a better option, as it can travel forward and back along the length of the shop and travel side to side.
Alternatively a pivoting jib crane attached to a column would be another option.

And lighting, lots of lighting. One problem with the standard roll up garage style door is that they block any ceiling lights once the door is rolled up. There are the industrial type doors available, that roll up into a cylinder above the door, that have a more residential appearance available.

You could also get real crazy and put in a service pit in one bay, similar to the local speedy lube type places. A four post hoist isn't super expensive either, as long as you have enough headroom clearance.
 
I always put lights above the doors on separate circuits, so I can turn them off when the doors are open. When I can afford it I hope to put in a two post clear floor Benpak asymmetric 10,000 lb hoist in the center -- Rob Millson has one on the Island he says it works great .
 
Vanny said:
These work well for a garage door.

http://www.smartgarage.ca/contact/

What about a pit to work in? When we come by we can pull in just like at Mr. Lube.
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Yeah, those are the kind I was alluding to in my post, they don't cover up the lights when you open the door.

I'm surprised Rob still uses a 2 post hoist, thought he would have a phobia of that style now.
 
pits are not aloud or even safe . ive had a couple and seen what gases and a broken light bulb can do let alone a welder. but you can put in in slab uplighting probably. or if your really creative a rough in floor drain to a recovery tank. trowelling hardner is a must for the best finish forsure. personnally i would bump up the mpa to 32 if your finisher can handle a hot load. no heat at least roughed in ? and if i had your money i would put an inslab vault under your cabnet line. lots of gravel for a base so the surface water can run and expand.
 
garage doors 2" R19
 
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