Semi float rear Lock-right install FZJ80

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I installed the lockright I bought from Kurt Cruiser Outfitters , Here are a few picks of the process....


I drove it on the highway for about 10 miles to heat up the gear oil so it would drain quicker, When I got home I drained both front and rear axles. I only put a lock-right in the rear, I drained both to keep the same schedule.
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Please remember to block the front wheels before you start to jack up the vehicle, Then jack up the vehicle and put it on some jack stands so you can pull the tires out a few inches, On a FF axles you may not need to remove the tires, I will leave that up to someone else to figure out.
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With the fluids drained I removed the sway bar axle bolts(10MM) and the parking brake cable(10MM) to get easy axess to the diff. cover(12MM), Then I removed the diff. cover to see what I need to remove.
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First you will need to remove the pinion shaft pin(10mm) so you can slide out the pinion shaft from the differential case, Which should slide out fairly easily, After you have the pinion shaft out the side and pinion gears should come right out, Mine also has C-clips, Remember to keep the thrust washer's from the side gears for the new Lock right coupler.
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Starting on the ring gear side install the coupler and push in the axle so the C-clip can be put on the shaft, Be sure to use some grease so all the parts ar lubes and it helps to hold some items together, Put the shear pins in the same side driver using some grease to hold in the pins, Put the spacer in the left drive gear, start installing the right side but leave out the C-clip once you have the right side put together push the shear pins through to the other side so you can install the springs, This will keep things together till you can put the pinion shaft back in, Now its time to line up the gears so you can install the C-clip, You will need to push the axle back in slowly so the C-clip will line up then you simply push it in and pull the axle back out so it seats in place, Now you can put the pinion shaft back in.
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Check to make sure that it is working by turning the wheels and start putting it all back together.
Add the required amount of gear oil and put all the items you removed back on.
It took me about 2 hours, But I had a hard time getting the tires off...gotta love tire shops.
Now go out and see if it works!
Mine works great, You will hear it ratcheting when you are turning unless you are on the throttle, Cant wait to get to Moab.
Good luck and have fun!
 
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Joined
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Nice, you'll be amazed at what a difference a locker will make. And good move not installing it right off the bat when you got the truck. I'm a big believer in learning your truck before you start dinking with it. I've seen several people get lockers that still have no idea to drive, they figure the locker will make up for skill.

One point - get some different jack stands. The point of the shock mount sitting on the flat top of that stand gives me the willies. Little bit of shaking from wrenching hard and you're in a world of hurt.
 
Joined
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Nice, you'll be amazed at what a difference a locker will make. And good move not installing it right off the bat when you got the truck. I'm a big believer in learning your truck before you start dinking with it. I've seen several people get lockers that still have no idea to drive, they figure the locker will make up for skill.

One point - get some different jack stands. The point of the shock mount sitting on the flat top of that stand gives me the willies. Little bit of shaking from wrenching hard and you're in a world of hurt.

Thanks for the thought, I did a bit of wiggling before I got under there, my good jack stands are in use.........still :rolleyes:
But thats another thread.
 
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Nice write-up. Is the lockrite really $605.00 or am I missing something? I want to do this as an alternative to the arb or electric lockers but wholly crap if that is the price I'll weld the spider gears!

EDIT: I was looking at the Detroit. My mistake. What was the price for the Lockright?
 
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Nice write-up. Is the lockrite really $605.00 or am I missing something? I want to do this as an alternative to the arb or electric lockers but wholly crap if that is the price I'll weld the spider gears!

You're looking at the Detroits on Kurt's site. Click on the link that says "CLICK HERE FOR PRICES". They're around $300.
 
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Thinking about it, I was wondering about the orange on the gears? Is this the stock gear setup paint? It seems to be on the diff. case...any thought?
 

adventr

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I did a lockrite install tonight. My deal on the FZJ locked axles fell through, so i thought that installing a lockrite in the rear would be a cheap easy solution...

WRONG.

I installed everything correctly, double checked it all before putting it back together, drove to my friends house to try it out. It was climbing really well, then it started making a horrible KLUNCK sound.

It did that 3 or 4 times, then CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK... Front wheel drive only.

Completely stripped that thing out within 15min of mild/moderate wheeling.

Brought 'er home and pulled the cover only to find a bunch of metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Lockrite doesnt LOOK hurt, but its completely stripped. I had to drive home with the center diff locked.

Needless to say, I will never buy another one, and I will also let all my buddies know just how they work. I think i'm just gonna weld the spider gears up. I've never had a problem with that breaking in the past....

-Tim
 
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I did a lockrite install tonight. My deal on the FZJ locked axles fell through, so i thought that installing a lockrite in the rear would be a cheap easy solution...

WRONG.

I installed everything correctly, double checked it all before putting it back together, drove to my friends house to try it out. It was climbing really well, then it started making a horrible KLUNCK sound.

It did that 3 or 4 times, then CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK... Front wheel drive only.

Completely stripped that thing out within 15min of mild/moderate wheeling.

Brought 'er home and pulled the cover only to find a bunch of metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Lockrite doesnt LOOK hurt, but its completely stripped. I had to drive home with the center diff locked.

Needless to say, I will never buy another one, and I will also let all my buddies know just how they work. I think i'm just gonna weld the spider gears up. I've never had a problem with that breaking in the past....

-Tim

Thanks for your comment's Tim.
I hope by me posting this you didnt buy one, It was merely an option.
Good luck
 

adventr

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I apologize if any of that sounded like it was directed toward anyone.

I was just angry that I spent all that time putting it in, only to have it break within 15min and have to pull it all back apart...

I purchased the lockrite on Friday, and that was before I'd even seen this thread.
I have a buddy that has them in his cherokee, and they seem to work great in there. I guess the landcruiser is just too heavy for it or something.

Anyway, i'm just gonna weld up the spider gears until I can find a deal on some factory locked axles. I know with the spider gears welded up, the axle shaft will break before the welds.

-Tim
 

adventr

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I'll post up some pics tonight.

There were a bunch of metal shavings stuck in the bottom on the magnet, so something definitely shaved off.

None of the pins were broke either. I don't know exactly WHAT broke, but something sure did...

With the rear end on jackstands, I was able to spin 1 tire and it would just keep spinning. Its like it would not engage. I wasnt even able to MOVE with the center diff unlocked.
Just being in Drive with the brake off would cause the rear end to just start ratcheting like crazy.

I pulled the unit out last night before bed, and also pulled both axles out and checked the splines. They were fine.

The only thing hurt looks to be the lockrite. I will be welding up the old spider gears tonight, and will try it out again. I have no worries with the welds holding up though.

-Tim
 

cruiseroutfit

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I did a lockrite install tonight. My deal on the FZJ locked axles fell through, so i thought that installing a lockrite in the rear would be a cheap easy solution...

WRONG....


Hmmm... I won't hide the fact I am not the biggest fan of the LockRight lockers... but for the $$$ I stand by the fact they are a great option.

I've sold dozens and dozens of the LockRights, installed many of them too... I have never, ever heard of someone having an issue as you pointed out.

Not saying you didn't, but I just can't even imagine what went wrong that would cause "no wheel drive" Other than a failure of the center pin.

I would love to see some pictures of all the parts...

What were your tolerances?
 

adventr

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The center pin was fine. The 4 pins that hold the clutches together were fine, as were the springs.

Its the teeth that interlock that are not fine. They are kinda rounded off now instead of being perfectly squared. So, basically, it ratchets WAY too easy now. Easy enough that the vehicle being in drive with the brake off will cause it to just start slipping.

Im just glad the thing broke at my friends house not far from my house, as opposed to breaking somewhere far away.

The width between the 2 clutches was around .180 or so, I THINK. I know it was within spec, but it was on the loose end of the specs. I was planning on getting thicker shims for the side gears, but i didnt even get that chance.

I think that if lockrite is going to make a product that requires shimming, they should include the shims...

-Tim
 
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The teeth have a slight bevel to them, that's what helps them slip and ratchet. It doesn't sound like a locker failure, sounds like something else like the pinion was binding up. My first thought was what Kurt mentioned, center pin slid out, maybe into the pinion.
 

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