School me on a 100 series

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Xpnsv72fj

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Threads
43
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797
Location
Hanover VA
Hello all,

I normally hang out in the 40 section but I have the chance to buy a 2000 100 series in good condition from a guy I work with.

I've done some research but still feel like I know nothing about them. It would be my DD replacing my 00 4Runner. I just want some opinions from the experts.

The cruiser is a 2000 with 141,000 miles and I can buy it for $6800.

Thanks
 
If it is in avg condition that is not bad for a sub 150k LC. I am guessing rust is a factor to look for. If it is a one owner and it spent most of its life in Southern VA then you have a winner. If it spent its life in DC or Baltimore then maybe not. Important to know the history.

Apart from the normal used car items such as paint condition, dents, original glass, seat/interior condition, tire life, oil leaks, you need to look for a few other Cruiser specific items:

#1) rust, body rust at the rear quarters behind the plastic rear bumper cover, fuel tank cover rust, exhaust system condition, rocker panel rust, rear gate underside rust, excessive frame weld rusting. NOTE: they all rust in normal 4 season climates, it is just when you catch it and if you mitigate it properly.

#2) Service History: If this is a one owner that should be easy. Timing belt and water pump should have been down by now.

#3) AC check it on a warm day to ensure it blows cold

#4.) is the plastic engine cover on it? That could be a sign of major work/shade tree fiddling.

#5) Does it shift into 4 High or Low

#6) Brakes, check to see if the discs are in good shape with out gauging

#7) Lift? Best if it is stock suspension.

A 2000 should be a pretty simple basic rig with out NAV and without rear AC units (I think)

If it is a friend, see if he will let you (not him) take it to your local Toyota store or at least Toyota specialist. $150 for an inspection may provide a wealth of information and even Toyota warranty and service history information. Don't bring him, if it is a good one the tech and service writers will try to buy it or at minimum drive up the price.

$6,800 is cheap for a low rust, original, one owner, serviced LC, but could be high for a multiple owner, modified rust bucket project rig.

"Each used car is an individual" How lucky are you with judging people/cars based upon examination and research.
 
I left out the fact that I work for a Toyota dealer here in VA. It's not a one owner but the guy has done a ton of maintenance to it over the last few years. I've been under the truck several times and it looks pretty clean. I just don't know what problems they have that I need to be on the look out for. I got burned really bad on my 40 so I will never make a move without asking you guys first.

Thanks for all the advice so far!
 
For a newbie 100 owner or someone looking to purchase one, I always tell them to refer to Slee Offroad's guide on what to look for/inspect on a used truck. They are Land Cruiser kings and cover just about every possible aspect. Check it out below:

Slee Offroad - Newbie Guide to LC/LX
 
I left out the fact that I work for a Toyota dealer here in VA. It's not a one owner but the guy has done a ton of maintenance to it over the last few years. I've been under the truck several times and it looks pretty clean. I just don't know what problems they have that I need to be on the look out for. I got burned really bad on my 40 so I will never make a move without asking you guys first.

Thanks for all the advice so far!
I'd take the opportunity to talk with some of the mechanics at the dealership. I'm sure they've seen it all and can comment on the reliability of the 100 series relative to other Toyota vehicles.
 
If the maintenance is up to date as in tires, brakes, fluid changes and timing belt then $6800 is a bargain price.

That is assuming it has no major dents, rust or trashed interior. You would be ahead of the game if it needed some major item later on.
 
I'd take the opportunity to talk with some of the mechanics at the dealership. I'm sure they've seen it all and can comment on the reliability of the 100 series relative to other Toyota vehicles.

I talked with two of my master techs today and they told me that all land cruisers are pretty bullet poof and they don't see many problems with them! I plan on taking some pictures and posting them up for you guys to see on Friday but it sounds like I'm getting a pretty good deal. I can't thank everyone enough for all the help. I love my 40 and love working on it and I can't wait to start enjoying the 100 series.

Josh
 
Another tip is to have a thorough PPI (pre-purchase inspection) performed while you are present. Almost any mechanic including dealerships will do so for a small fee, and having it up on a real lift and seeing parts of the undercarriage you wouldn't normally see if you got down on your hands & knees is very helpful. Some people walk away while the mechanic performs it because they trust their word exclusively. Get under there with him and don't be hesitant to point out any areas of concern to him.
 
One thing to keep in mind if you're going to DD it. These things get HORRENDOUS gas mileage. Expect about 11-12 MPG around town with no cargo. Thank god gas is $2/gal an not $4.
 
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Everything underneath looks correct. Very nice. That is a steal for that truck.

I see VIN stickers on both quarter panels, that indicates they have not been replaced.

I don't see a timing belt sticker that it has been completed.

Also, the writing on the rear diff and 10 sticker are not original.

Never seen those wheels before but they look good and the front center caps fit.

Do you get to keep the smart water, yakima rack and rear sub?
 
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I would be curious as to what kind of issue(s) they resolved or were chasing down with the rear driveshaft and rear diff. Perhaps it was just a pinion seal but perhaps it was more. I would probably inspect the rear axle seals too.
 
Things I know
The last time the timing belt was changed was he 08 so it will need that very soon.
The front brakes are at 3mm so I'll need to do them.
After talking with the guy at work he wants 7200 hundred which I still think is a good deal. He has the original wheels with new tires so I will be putting those back on and talking to 2016 Tundra wheels off.
 
I would be curious as to what kind of issue(s) they resolved or were chasing down with the rear driveshaft and rear diff. Perhaps it was just a pinion seal but perhaps it was more. I would probably inspect the rear axle seals too.

When the guy I work with first bought it he when crazy chasing some little vibration that I couldn't even feel! He came out of a 2016 Tundra and had never owned a used car before. I tried to tell him that older cars have little vibrations and noises but he damn near went broke chasing it. He put a brand new Toyota rear end and new Toyota drive shafts. All this was done at are dealership by a Toyota tech so one can only hope it was done right.

Josh
 
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