Sanity Check - 80 Series Buy and Engine Swap

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Joined
Mar 5, 2026
Threads
3
Messages
17
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Hi All!

I own a GX currently and am wanting to get into a Cruiser (I am green when it comes to cruisers, and want to learn so please correct me and be honest). I am mechanically inclined and can do anything but dropping transmissions/pulling engines/ swapping axles due to not having a lift and special tools.

i found a 1996 Colorado cruiser being sold for 6500$ that the owner claims has engine knock, and he doesn't have time to fix it up. Currently, the motor and frame have 208*** miles. My first thought: this needs an engine rebuild or a swap.

I attached pictures below to the vehicle. It has been lifted, regeared(4.88), has ARB front and rear lockers, pinstripes and some rear driver side damage above the taillight. The frame looks decent, as fasteners look free of rust. There does seem to be some surface rust on panels underneath where the spare would go, as well as an interesting tow strap that I am not sure what purpose it serves.

Conveniently, I found a supplier of a 1FZ-FE engine locally who is willing to sell it for 500$. I could potentially have a mechanic drop this motor in with full reseals and hoses.

The axles appear to be in ok condition, with the owner admitting there is a slight leak on one of the knuckles. I have not gotten confirmation on fluid intervals and servicing, and admit that a truck with offroad history may not be an ideal choice.

I however, really like the idea of bringing back this beast and restoring it slowly to its original glory. Can some fellow mudders sanity check me, and give me advice on this idea? If anyone else has approached a cruiser like this, what did it cost to get it back to spec? If it would be better to keep searching let me know. I can wait for another to come my way.

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IMO, the truck is worth what you are willing to pay.

From the pictures it doesn't look to have anything glaring. Also depending on your use case, the damage around the rear taillight might just stay and add character.

The tie down is hard to see why it is there but I would definitely check that out. Rebuilding the front end is a right of passage and once you do it the next one is easier.

Are there no catalytic converters on it or is that and aftermarket unit? Also, did you notice that the exhaust isn't run all the way back?

You say you have a GX so I would assume that this wouldn't be a daily as it compared to a GX will be enlightening to say the least.

You asked what it will cost to get it to get it "back to spec" and that is an open ended question because your use case, level of attention to detail, mechanical abilities and saving will determine the overall cost but these are not that cheap to get back up to OEM.

Lastly, if the mods are still good and to your liking, from the pictures you are looking at thousands of dollars just there.
Sliders - $1k
Front and Rear ARB with compressor - $3k
Front bumper - $1k
Lift (depending on height) but let's say - $1300 Oddly enough the front steering dampener is removed. Also missing the splash shield that go under the front of the engine (just above the dampener mounting). The pictures are hard to see parts but the lift doesn't look to be larger because I cannot see some of the drop brackets that usually are required with taller lifts. Maybe I am wrong though.
 
In addition to comments above from @Brindleboxer I would add that on a $500 1FZ I'm assuming the head gasket has not been refreshed. If you're paying retail to have a mechanic engine swap & reseal in my mind I would want to budget a head gasket (which could always lead to other discoveries once the head is off) rather than possibly end up needing to do that later.

From afar it seems like a decent price for the mods that are on it and the overall condition. If it were me in your position I would think about doing the engine swap myself. Not only will it save you a lot of $ but in the end you will be super familiar with all the systems under the hood for future repairs.
 
The cruiser is too expensive IMO. Although I don’t know what the market in your area is like. I have similar condition 80s with average engine wear for the same mileage, for around the same price.

Most cruisers are worth saving, but the knocking engine and damage at the drivers side taillight would price me out of this one
 
IMO, the truck is worth what you are willing to pay.

From the pictures it doesn't look to have anything glaring. Also depending on your use case, the damage around the rear taillight might just stay and add character.

The tie down is hard to see why it is there but I would definitely check that out. Rebuilding the front end is a right of passage and once you do it the next one is easier.

Are there no catalytic converters on it or is that and aftermarket unit? Also, did you notice that the exhaust isn't run all the way back?

You say you have a GX so I would assume that this wouldn't be a daily as it compared to a GX will be enlightening to say the least.

You asked what it will cost to get it to get it "back to spec" and that is an open ended question because your use case, level of attention to detail, mechanical abilities and saving will determine the overall cost but these are not that cheap to get back up to OEM.

Lastly, if the mods are still good and to your liking, from the pictures you are looking at thousands of dollars just there.
Sliders - $1k
Front and Rear ARB with compressor - $3k
Front bumper - $1k
Lift (depending on height) but let's say - $1300 Oddly enough the front steering dampener is removed. Also missing the splash shield that go under the front of the engine (just above the dampener mounting). The pictures are hard to see parts but the lift doesn't look to be larger because I cannot see some of the drop brackets that usually are required with taller lifts. Maybe I am wrong though.
I definitely noticed the catalytic converter and exhaust. Looks to be a new weld on unit. Will be something I can ask the owner as well.

Yes, this will become my weekend warrior camping/fishing/hunting truck. Nothing compares to the comfort of a GX lol.

Yes, getting back to spec is open ended, but basically I want it to drive. So engine issues taken care of, to at least get it moving.

Didn't catch that the steering dampener was missing. Good eye.
 
In addition to comments above from @Brindleboxer I would add that on a $500 1FZ I'm assuming the head gasket has not been refreshed. If you're paying retail to have a mechanic engine swap & reseal in my mind I would want to budget a head gasket (which could always lead to other discoveries once the head is off) rather than possibly end up needing to do that later.

From afar it seems like a decent price for the mods that are on it and the overall condition. If it were me in your position I would think about doing the engine swap myself. Not only will it save you a lot of $ but in the end you will be super familiar with all the systems under the hood for future repairs.
True. I just looked up the weight specs for that engine and damn. It'd be a pain just to get transport for that block itself. It would be doable, but a pain.
 
The cruiser is too expensive IMO. Although I don’t know what the market in your area is like. I have similar condition 80s with average engine wear for the same mileage, for around the same price.

Most cruisers are worth saving, but the knocking engine and damage at the drivers side taillight would price me out of this one
Fair opinion. I am totally open to waiting it out till I find one in better condition, not needing an engine.
 
If your abilities are there and you just don't have the tools I would definitely just get the tools. You'll come out waaay on top money wise, even if you just dump them afterwards for lack of storage space. And as mentioned you'll really get to know your rig. At this point only specialty shops are familiar with these and they are spendy. Other shops that don't know not to expect a typical Toyota v6/v8 with ifs should not be trusted or carefully vetted imo
 
Ditto: price maybe a bit high for condition but not crazy (need to diagnose the engine knock)

Depends on your usage and what you can tolerate ie: it has body damage, interior looks well worn/dirty, likely torn leather seats, crack in dash, leather steering wheel coming apart, rust on the undercarriage (likely fixable ie ice blasting maybe, but need to check all body panels very closely ie: bottom/underside of rocker panels, around the wheel wells (inside out out), bottom of quart panels, fenders, doors (inner lip at the bottom), hatch, hood, roof around the windshield, etc,etc.

For the engine you might get lucky putting in a used engine (and fix a few dozen small things) but in the long term buying a new short block from Toyota (~$4000), then building the rest of it from there (~$10,000+), then you'd have reliable engine for the next 20-30 years.

Altogether you might need to budget $15,000 (minimum) to get a reliable long hauler. If it's just going to be second or third vehicle or weekend truck, cross your fingers and toss in the used engine, then fix things as they come.
 
That 80 would sell in a minute for $6,500 here. I wouldn't put a lot of faith in a claimed "knock". It either has one or it doesn't. You need to check that out yourself. A new short block from Toyota, next day to your dealer, will cost you $3,500. A new head, same way, $1,500. Add $500 for incidentals, and you have a brand new engine.

Buy it, drive it until it doesn't drive anymore and then fix it. If you lived on this side of the world, I'd do it for you.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I also live right down the road from Redline Cruisers here in Springs.
Don’t waste your time there, go to cruisers and co or precision land cruisers.
 
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