Builds Sandy the Tan FJ60 (2 Viewers)

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@GLTHFJ60 Thanks for the info..... Do you apply the seam sealer RAIN CHANNEL sealer after primer before paint, or between primer coats?

Good question. Seam sealer on top of and below the rain gutter goes on after the first coat of Epoxy primer, before the second coat.
 
Oh yeah, this is what the paint looks like after the stripper sits on it for a day. I used this stripper when I did moonshine a few years ago, it works very well.

There's plastic over the stripper to prevent it from drying out too quickly, so it can work longer.

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Roof was been completely stripped, prepped and first couple coats of primer were laid down.

Next up is to planish out a couple dings in the roof skin, put a super thin skim coat of bondo over the patched areas to ensure they're smooth and put down the gutter sealant. Then another coat of primer.

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Spent today using my new pressure washer hose and tips to clean out the inside of the frame. Seems the truck had a fight with a mudpit at some point in its life and lost. Sticking my finger in the frame revealed 1/2" of sand/mud etc inside the back half of the frame.

The tip I used spins freely and shoots water in a cone pattern backwads. I fed the hose from the back of the frame all the way to the front and cleaned it front to back.
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The result.. lots of mud, rocks, etc.
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The plan is to let the truck air out for a few days and dry and then do some internal frame coating to keep it decent going forward.


I also replaced the wiper linkage since my wipers had a TON of play in them. Basically useless in the rain. This is the amount of play before the linkage tightened up.
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New parts. PN: 85160-90A07
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Took the time to put the new 4runner wiper arms in with new nuts and covers. Linkage is nice and tight now! Wipers cycle beautifully and will be more more confidence inspiring in the rain.
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Also replaced a front side marker that was toast.
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Where did you order your wiper linkage from? I am in very bad need of the same.
 
Order is:
Epoxy primer right on bare metal
Final hammer work, skim coat of bondo (1/32" thick or less) wherever needed
Another coat of Epoxy primer
Single stage color, 2-3 coats depending on our patience

Edit: Nason color matched single stage, and Eastwood direct to metal Epoxy primer.

Question @GLTHFJ60 , how does one go about getting the color match and ordering the Nason SS paint? Do we have to go through an auto parts place or a specific auto paint company? Thanks for the additional guidance. Truck is looking great 👍!
 
Question @GLTHFJ60 , how does one go about getting the color match and ordering the Nason SS paint? Do we have to go through an auto parts place or a specific auto paint company? Thanks for the additional guidance. Truck is looking great 👍!

I got it at a local Napa who mixes up paint. Just give them the Toyota color code.
 
Last coat of primer is on! All that's left now is to shoot color and let it cure. My painting experience now consists of the last 3 coats of primer and I am getting the hang of it.

I forgot to take some pictures but here's what we did after laying the first primer coat and before the second.

We put a very thin skimcoat of bondo over the patched areas and a couple dimples in the vertical part of the roof skin to smooth it out. There were also a couple of high spots that were hammered back down flush. Then I applied the 3M heavy bodied seam sealer on the underside of the gutter all the way around. This was followed by some final gutter adjustments to ensure they were straight and then I applied the 3M self-leveling seam sealer to the inside of the gutter area. It laid down really nicely and I'm happy with it. For the a-pillars, I started at the top and slowly worked my way down with the self-leveling seam sealer to ensure it got to the bottom of the channel along the full length.

3M Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer 08308 - I purchased 1 bottle and we used about half of it.
3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer 08307 - I purchased 2 bottles and we used 1.5 bottles of it.

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@GLTHFJ60 killed it on this contoured passenger rear corner patch. We thought it'd be one of the harder ones to get right but it came out damn near perfect. The weld seam didn't even need any bondo or adjustment.
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Then a quick scuff and 2 more coats of primer and here's how she looks now waiting for color.

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Couple more pics from this morning if I may. The blotches you see are where the bondo skimmed areas soak up the primer coats a little more than the rest of the already primed metal. Color won't soak into them now that they've been primed.

We're super proud of how the sides came out.

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DANG!!! Those gutters look better than factory new! Primer job in the last pic(previous post) looks like you could just spray clear and call it done. Great job.....Durham is not too far from Virginia Beach! :) in case you want to revisit the roof paint and seal again sometime! :cool:
 
beauty!
 
Couple more pics from this morning if I may. The blotches you see are where the bondo skimmed areas soak up the primer coats a little more than the rest of the already primed metal. Color won't soak into them now that they've been primed.

We're super proud of how the sides came out.

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This looks great 👍. Do you have any close up pictures of the heavy bodied seam sealer under the gutter? Did it come with an applicator or did you have to use something to spread it? Does it have a pot life that makes it workable for a few minutes? Thanks for the photos. Really great work.
 
This looks great 👍. Do you have any close up pictures of the heavy bodied seam sealer under the gutter? Did it come with an applicator or did you have to use something to spread it? Does it have a pot life that makes it workable for a few minutes? Thanks for the photos. Really great work.

It comes in a tube and a caulk style gun is used to apply it through a plastic tip. I spread it flat with my finger. I listed the part number above. You can look it up.

Only pics I have are with some dust unfortunately before we blew it off. Dries in less than 10 mins and is paintable in 15.
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It's basically the same as caulking your bathtub or a toilet. Same process. You can use a tool to smooth it out, or just your finger. I prefer the finger route because I'm not fancy. It smears a little if you don't tape the edges of the caulk seam, but it's getting painted over anyway, and has effectively no thickness where it smears, so no harm no foul.

The two part epoxy stuff we're using is a little fancier than your run of the mill s***, but it goes on the same as any other caulk would.
 
You're as bad as Paramount, making us wait for the next episode.
 
She's painted!!

Yesterday I did some final sanding, moved the tape lines, and sprayed color. It was my first time behind the paint gun and was a learning experience but I'm thrilled with how it came out!

Moving tape line down and sanding the transition and scuffing old paint
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Prepped and ready!
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This is the paint I used.
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Now for the painted pics! I'm happy with the results for a garage paint job and being my first time shooting paint. Once the paint dries and cures a little bit, I'll wetsand the blend line of old and new paint and then decide if I want to buff out the existing paint to bring it back to life to better match the new paint or lightly scuff up the new paint to knock down the reflection and shine to match the existing paint.

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Got everything unmasked while paint was still wet
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@GLTHFJ60 showing how happy we were to have this finished and for the truck to be one step closer to leaving his garage :rofl:
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