Sag box leak... Replace????

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

chicago

chicago

Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Threads
434
Messages
9,610
Location
Reno, Nevada
Hey all,
Have a question that may not be "HARDCORE", but I suspect that my 37's MAY be part of the issue???
Running rubithon last weekend I noticed that my j20 re manned sag box was leaking PS fluid from the ADJUSTOR NUT!! The fluid was HOT!!
Does this indicate that I need to REPLACE the box, or is it the fluid getting too hot, expanding and the pressure is forcing it out past that nut??
I DO NOT have a cooler on it, but plan to put one on, now that I'm having issues.
I've not had issues at all till last weekend. I've wheeled quite a bit over the last year on that trail and others like it... That's what's concerning me more than anything.

Thanks for any info on this!!

Keith
 
1974FJ said:
i cant remember and your build thread is too many pages long to look, but are you running a hydro-boost setup aswell?
Click to expand...

Nope. No ram assist.
 
I just went though the same thing kinda except my Saginaw box was getting loose. It just did the Redneck ram install and the difference is night and day and was really easy to install. For the 500ish it cost hands down one of the best mods I have done. I lost all of the little bumps you would feel in the wheel and I can take my hands is steering wheel at 60 and cruise all day long. Worth it for sure.
Jim
 
Just replace the seal that is under the adjuster nut. And add a PS cooler.

And go HA ;)


The seal under the nut has to seal against a threaded piece. They sometimes go bad. It's not a big deal.
 
SAg boxes are cake to rebuild..

;)
 
rusty_tlc said:
For what it's worth I know a guy that owns an XJ who is ASE certified to re-build Sag boxes. :grinpimp:
Click to expand...

DOH!!!
I forgot about that lil nugget!!! :)
 
Mace said:
Just replace the seal that is under the adjuster nut. And add a PS cooler.

And go HA ;)

The seal under the nut has to seal against a threaded piece. They sometimes go bad. It's not a big deal.
Click to expand...

That's good news!! It's kind of a PITA to replace that box ONLY because of the fact that the U joint on the linkage is a bitch!!
 
Was looking at a aluminum heat sink cooler. Coild mount it on the frame rail...Don't have the room on the rad. For a fin type.
 
Anything is better than nothing.. Land Rover made a neat tubular one. I have one i could probably send you if you wanted..
 
Fast Eddy said:
You want a radiator type, not an extruded tube type. They don't transfer enough heat. How could you not have room between the bezel and the radiator? Tranny cooler in there?
Click to expand...

It's an aftermarket radiator (griffen w/ a thicker core) and a custom built mount w/ a Chevy vortec in it that was maxed out forward to make room for a rear shaft.
The trans cooler is in the back of the rig w it's own fan and wired to the ignition. ;)
How's that for an answer?! Lol!!
 
Mace said:
Anything is better than nothing.. Land Rover made a neat tubular one. I have one i could probably send you if you wanted..
Click to expand...

Sounds pretty good, but you don't think one of the summit heat sink coolers would work?
I'm guessing and really have no idea at this point. Just relatively certain that I could use SOMETHING on there.
 
ARCTICMUTT said:
I have a buddy this happened to in has Grand Wagoneer and he installed new seals in the box as well as installed a cooler...never happened again and he was running 40" swampers. What kind of fluid are you running?
Click to expand...

Nothing special... Just some garden variety PS fluid.
 
anything is better than nothing. remember that your 62 had a cooler that was just two pieces of tubing run under the radiator..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom