Rust repair advise on North East 200 series (1 Viewer)

[Raptor62]

Hello guys, I am considering a 2008 200 series in the northeast with 120k on it. It seems to have some rust on the underbody and I was wondering if it's worth the trouble to buy it and clean up the rust? I live in the northeast and plan on it being my daily to save putting miles on my 80 series. It's selling for 30k. Thanks!

 

[PDoyle]

If your not in a hurry wait for a better one. The rust has taken over the front end pretty good.

 

[Raptor62]

If your not in a hurry wait for a better one. The rust has taken over the front end pretty good.

Yes I agree it has. It seemed like upper and lower control arms are pretty cheap and I have been looking in my area for a while and prices are ridiculously especially for 2011+.

 

[auggafj80]

I would say that’s a bit rusty for miles and year. Closer to the ocean? I’m in Maine and My 08 has 260k on it and not nearly as bad. I’ve taken care of it though. $30k would be hard to swallow for me but market is crazy.

 

[Weedhopper]

Look and feel on top of the brake and power steering lines. Salt and crud sits up there and eats it’s way through the thin lines.

 

[Raptor62]

Look and feel on top of the brake and power steering lines. Salt and crud sits up there and eats it’s way through the thin lines.

Thank you I will check those out.

 

[CharlieS]

I live in the Northeast and am used to rust - I would pass on that one, unless you never plan to work on it or have it worked on. It looks too far gone to be an economical choice in the long run.

I've looked at 50 year old 40 series in better shape!

 

[Raptor62]

I would say that’s a bit rusty for miles and year. Closer to the ocean? I’m in Maine and My 08 has 260k on it and not nearly as bad. I’ve taken care of it though. $30k would be hard to swallow for me but market is crazy.

Yes its right by the ocean. My 97 has 200k and almost no rust. I'm looking for a cheaper 200 series so I can not daily my 80 and restore/ modify it. But yes the market is ridiculous

I live in the Northeast and am used to rust - I would pass on that one, unless you never plan to work on it or have it worked on. It looks too far gone to be an economical choice in the long run.

I've looked at 50 year old 40 series in better shape!

Thanks for that feedback. I think I'll pass on this land cruiser and keep searching.

 

[Lester did that]

I might pass on that. You can see brake lines that where replaced. It's not that your foot will go thru the floor but any kind of maintenance or mods are going to be a Kroil pain in the butt. 30K is also steep for that amount of rust regardless of how clean the interior is. It looks like every dang bolt is rusted solid. I'm in the NE as well and that looks bad for a 2008. I just see broken bolt, broken bolt, replace all of that, torch, bloody knuckles, bolt extractor, tap set and many hard hours cursing. Keep up the search.

Cruiser Solutions – custom Land Cruisers, restorations, genuine Toyota parts, body tubs, used Land Cruisers for sale - https://cruisersolutions.com/ These guys are pretty solid but up in NE. Might be worth giving a call. They deal mainly with restoration and full builds. But they know people selling 200's before they hit the internet. They will take a small sellers fee and for that price you will know everything about it. The good and bad. They are very good at correcting the bad and won't rake you over the coals like some of the shops in the west especially Cali. Just let them know your budget and be patient.

 

[yonah]

I would hard pass on that. That’s an incredible amount of corrosion.

I want to say thank you for posting the photos. These are very helpful for those of us who have new, or newer, 200s and are in the never ending process of corrosion prevention. Some really good threads have popped up recently discussing the different products and methods used by members in the 200 tech forum.

I have a request - @Raptor62 do you have any photos of the engine bay? I’m curious to see if anything has corroded there. Did you see any rust in the body panels or rocker areas?

 

[Weedhopper]

X2 on Cruiser Solutions. They spent a lot of extra time with me with my 40, at no extra charge.

 

[Lester did that]

I would hard pass on that. That’s an incredible amount of corrosion.

I want to say thank you for posting the photos. These are very helpful for those of us who have new, or newer, 200s and are in the never ending process of corrosion prevention. Some really good threads have popped up recently discussing the different products and methods used my members in the 200 tech forum.

I have a request - do you have any photos of the engine bay? I’m curious to see if anything has corroded there. Did you see any rust in the body panels or rocker areas?

Yes. That 2008 is pretty bad. But any more pictures would be great. Not to laugh at! It's very informative. The bottom is pretty bad but what about the engine bay and door panels? How do they relate.

I have seen rust like this many times and the thing keeps going strong. It's just the bill can be 2x-3x the labor if something needs repair. 4 hours vs. 12 hours. That's the real problem with LC's and rust. The frame is fine, the components are fine, the KDDS bolts are gone (if your not doing a lift who cares). It's just any work is exacerbated with the rust.

I bet someone will buy it for 25K if it does not sell soon. Not touch a damn thing on it besides the oil, plugs, fresh calipers and the thing will run just fine for the next 150K.

 

[stonepa]

Yes. That 2008 is pretty bad. But any more pictures would be great. Not to laugh at! It's very informative. The bottom is pretty bad but what about the engine bay and door panels? How do they relate.

I have seen rust like this many times and the thing keeps going strong. It's just the bill can be 2x-3x the labor if something needs repair. 4 hours vs. 12 hours. That's the real problem with LC's and rust. The frame is fine, the components are fine, the KDDS bolts are gone (if your not doing a lift who cares). It's just any work is exacerbated with the rust.

I bet someone will buy it for 25K if it does not sell soon. Not touch a damn thing on it besides the oil, plugs, fresh calipers and the thing will run just fine for the next 150K.

I agree. My 100, which has spent most of it’s life in coastal Alaska and coastal Baja, looks a lot worse underneath than these pictures and it gives me zero issues. It is pretty much stock and needs little work so rusty nuts and bolt are irrelevant. It just keeps on trucking and most likely will for years to come.

 

[nautiquelover]

Since you're in VA, I would also pass. I feel like the cars around here usually don't rust too bad unless you just don't take care of them at all. In reality, it would be fine for several years, but I would pass and see what comes up.

 

[EverywhereBear]

I would 100% pass on this one. My 08 LX was close to this amount of rust after 11 years. None of the shops in my area wanted to touch it to fix the rust, so when a clean 2018 LX showed up I traded it in.

 

[Raptor62]

Yes. That 2008 is pretty bad. But any more pictures would be great. Not to laugh at! It's very informative. The bottom is pretty bad but what about the engine bay and door panels? How do they relate.

I have seen rust like this many times and the thing keeps going strong. It's just the bill can be 2x-3x the labor if something needs repair. 4 hours vs. 12 hours. That's the real problem with LC's and rust. The frame is fine, the components are fine, the KDDS bolts are gone (if your not doing a lift who cares). It's just any work is exacerbated with the rust.

I bet someone will buy it for 25K if it does not sell soon. Not touch a damn thing on it besides the oil, plugs, fresh calipers and the thing will run just fine for the next 150K.

No, I don't have pictures of the engine bay but it's for sale for 30k and they are really set at that price. I had a conversation with the salesmen when I was asking for a lower price and I said that the only person paying 30k for a 13-year-old car with 120k would be an LC enthusiast and he agreed. I then told him an LC enthusiast isn't going to pay 30 for a 200 series with this much rust and they then told me it's not that bad and "it's not like the frame is rotted through". The car has a decent service history but clearly, they never did any rust protection.

 

[Raptor62]

I would 100% pass on this one. My 08 LX was close to this amount of rust after 11 years. None of the shops in my area wanted to touch it to fix the rust, so when a clean 2018 LX showed up I traded it in.

Wow I never thought of shops turning away work because of rust but I can see why.

 

[Raptor62]

Since you're in VA, I would also pass. I feel like the cars around here usually don't rust too bad unless you just don't take care of them at all. In reality, it would be fine for several years, but I would pass and see what comes up.

Thanks that's what I'm going to do. I just moved up here from the south and I'm trying to see how bad cars rust and this was def on the worse side.

 

[stonepa]

Wow I never thought of shops turning away work because of rust but I can see why.

Ive never seen a shop other than west coast that would turn away money because of rust. Everyone rlse knows how to deal with it.

 

[nautiquelover]

Thanks that's what I'm going to do. I just moved up here from the south and I'm trying to see how bad cars rust and this was def on the worse side.

Yeah. VA cars definitely rust since VA seems to put down all the salt in the world when the slightest calling for snow appears on the radar, which definitely sucks. I'm very jealous of the states out west that don't use salt, but here we are. Keep us updated on what you do. Again, just take care of it and be good about spraying the undercarriage every now and then and you should be good to go.