Build run-of-the-mill

[JoeCova]

I decided to create a build thread mainly to consolidate a lot of the work I am doing to the 80. Since much of what I am doing will be DIY, I hope it provides some folks ideas of how to take on some of things without dumping a bunch of money into pre-determined kits. Much of my motivation behind this work and thread is really from my disappointment in the products I have purchased, or my value tolerance is well below the asking price. I'm not here to throw shade at vendors supporting the LC community given how few there are but I will be matter of fact about things.

I'll skip past some of the boring details of things I have already done such as a full engine rebuild, transmission rebuild, transfer case regear, locker and gear install (I may touch on how I wired that in for the rotary switch), and general interior refresh items and leave you with some pics.

Key things I am working on now:
ARB Bumper Modification (Bumper failed on the Rubicon)
DIY Hydroboost (Not paying those prices for unknown parts)
DIY Slip-on Sliders (Hybrid Weld/Bolt-on); (4x4Labs failed, poor design)
Front 3-Link (because 98% anti-lift is no bueno)
Rear Triangulated 4-link (I hate panhards)

Day I brought her home, 1994 with 154k miles:

Previous owner (1-owner) blew a head gasket, brought it to an independent who couldn't fix it, so they did a half-ass job on the rebuild, stripped an O2 sensor wire from the harness, didnt install the bronze oil bushing, ignored the bent rod on 6, had a dead cylinder, and on and on and thus this was left to rot in a driveway for 10 years before I bought it home.

Cleaned her up nice and perdy

Since Toyota didnt have replacement harnesses for OBD1 and mine was barely hanging on by the EGR all nice and crusty. I rebuilt the entire thing with new wire and connectors, eat tape etc. what a PITA

Aside from a bunch of other details, this is how she sat up until this year when she was stripped for paint.

 

[JoeCova]

Had some rust in the rear quarter panel and around the front windshield that I didnt like so I pulled everything off and prepped for paint.

Fenders deleted, and rear sliding glass replaced with OEM solid panes.

 

[JoeCova]

My 4x4Labs sliders failed on the Rubicon, the inner tube buckled and slammed into the pinch weld and fenders, misaligning my doors. After inspection of the sliders themselves, it's a crap design (sorry Luke).

So I went to work rebuilding them so they can be used for more than an old lady step.

I cut the outer tubes off and welded them to a 2x3 .188 Square tube at 72" giving proper coverage of the entire pinch weld and lower panel without interfering with the wheel wells (I don't have mudflaps). The outriggers are built off of 1.5" .188 Square tube and gusset with the same square tubing. The outriggers will slip fit into 2" .188 square tube receivers that are welded to 4x6" .25 plate at 3 strategic frame locations and will bolt via 1/2" Grade 8 in double sheer with the receiver bearing the outrigger

The u-bolt design is a quick and easy solution for a production slider that leverages clamping force against the frame which has inherent weaknesses such as traversal overloads and gouging and stretching of the frame. Having experienced these weaknesses, I opted for a new mounting solution. I wanted the strength of weld on sliders with the convenience of service from bolt-on.

The closet production design I have seen offered for sale is from 4Plus Products but their 3 bolt mounting brackets weld to the frame flanges which weaken the frame and the bolts are all single sheer.

More to follow

 

[JoeCova]

The ARB bumper also failed me, it looks super nice but can't take a hit and offers low ground clearance. I decided to remove the lower vertical plating which increased my clearance by about 2.5-3" but by removing this the bumper lost all vertical integrity. The unsupported lower plates of the bumper were exposed and at risk of crumpling or buckling under a rock hit.

To bring back the structural integrity I fully welded 1x2" .125 tube vertically inside the bumper end to end, I extended this along the wings to ensure they could equally take a modest hit without folding. For the center section under the winch, I used a 4" .375 plate securing the lower bumper plate and reinforcing the frame mounts of the bumper, while 3/8 is pretty strong I added 1x2" .125 tubing fully welded across the plate to provide additional support.

The silver overspray you see inside the wing is a weldable Zync paint. This was sprayed inside the bumper and insdie the tubes to prevent corrosion, even though pieces are fully perimeter welded, just wanted to make sure nothing would easily rust, though nothing rusts that quickly in CO but still.

I have a couple welds to finish on the new shackle mounts as ARB only used 1/8" plate, I have added 3/4" shackle mounts but need additional passes before they are done and I need to remove the winch to complete one final inside pass on the lower plate. Then will prep for paint.

 

[JoeCova]

Collecting parts. The kit made by PIP (firewall and MC adapters) for the hydroboost so far has been impressive.

I have a Motorcraft Hydrobooster for 05-10 on the way. The part number is PC3Z-2005-AA. According to the dealer I called this is the only part number for this hydrobooster for these years. The official motorcraft part number is BRB-36.

Something to note. I specifically wanted a 1 1/16” bore MC. Toyota killed this, they were available for a limited time on early tundras and some other models but there are currently no active production of any Toyota or aftermarket specific MCs that are 1 1/16. Pretty much all 2000+ tundra MCs are now sold as 13/16. I could still grab one in a pinch at least

You can look to using something like a wilwood but I wanted an MC I could generally get without trouble. While there aren’t new or remanned production, there are possibly some in junkyards

The PSC reservoir is their larger offroad reservoir, the key thing with this is the secondary return line. If you keep the stock reservoir or use one with only a single return you have to use a T junction that causes backflow issues. The larger volume will also help with overall cooling as I’m running this through a Derale cooler.

 

[NeverFinis]

Collecting parts. The kit made by PIP for the hydroboost so far has been impressive.

View attachment 4034324

I have a Motorcraft Hydrobooster for 05-10 on the way. The part number is PC3Z-2005-AA. According to the dealer I called this is the only part number for this hydrobooster for these years. The official motorcraft part number is BRB-36

This is interesting. I didn't know that it existed. Looking forward to the installation.

 

[sjpitts]

Collecting parts. The kit made by PIP (firewall and MC adapters) for the hydroboost so far has been impressive.

I have a Motorcraft Hydrobooster for 05-10 on the way. The part number is PC3Z-2005-AA. According to the dealer I called this is the only part number for this hydrobooster for these years. The official motorcraft part number is BRB-36.

Something to note. I specifically wanted a 1 1/16” bore MC. Toyota killed this, they were available for a limited time on early tundras and some other models but there are currently no active production of any Toyota or aftermarket specific MCs that are 1 1/16. Pretty much all 2000+ tundra MCs are now sold as 13/16. I could still grab one in a pinch at least

You can look to using something like a wilwood but I wanted an MC I could generally get without trouble. While there aren’t new or remanned production, there are 100s in junk yards for $35. So I grabbed two just in case.

The PSC reservoir is their larger offroad reservoir, the key thing with this is the secondary return line. If you keep the stock reservoir or use one with only a single return you have to use a T junction that causes backflow issues. The larger volume will also help with overall cooling as I’m running this through a Derale cooler.

I have been looking at the PIP kit. My understanding is that it was designed to use the stock 80 master cylinder-- and that seems like it would make it a pretty straight forward install. Do you have a specific reason for wanting to switch to a different MC?

 

[JoeCova]

I have been looking at the PIP kit. My understanding is that it was designed to use the stock 80 master cylinder-- and that seems like it would make it a pretty straight forward install. Do you have a specific reason for wanting to switch to a different MC?

Bigger bore lets you move more brake fluid quicker per brake stroke, meaning less brake stroke. The stock MC at 1” is fine but was designed for vacuum boost, this create a longer pedal stroke which feels a dead zone before the brakes begin to engage, this is somewhat how my brakes feel now.

The Bosch hydro boosts are mostly on 3/4 and 1-ton trucks with much larger calipers so their master cylinders are typically 1 1/8”+ which is too big for the LC caliper size.

1 1/16 seems to be a good middle ground between the long pedal stroke of 1” and the too short pedal stroke of 1 1/8”

This seems to be unobtainium, as the only real options are specifically 94-98 T100s in certain models and 2000-2002 Tundras without VSC or ABS. Since VINs don’t call this out, most junkyards have no idea what MC is in the truck without inspection.

 

[JoeCova]

Got the bumper somewhat painted and letting it cure for a couple days before installing. The pics show the internal bracing.

I also cut and welded new shackle mounts. These were integrated into the ARB shackle mounts since they are solid plate to the frame. I ran two weld passes on these but were kind of a PITA to get a torch behind.

 

[JoeCova]

My quest for the 1 1/16” MC from Toyota has proven to be quite a challenge. This challenge is due to the fact that Toyota split ABS (1”) vs Non-ABS (1 1/16”) master cylinders and when Toyota killed the non-ABS master cylinders the aftermarket basically consolidated part numbers based on application family and not specifics and thus a lot of catalog information is wrong.

Let me also point out that you can find various GM master cylinders with 1 1/16” bore and wilwood makes a version as well. However, they are SAE with a different flare that requires conversion. I wanted to stick with Toyota flare and M10 so no conversion and driver side ports.

I was able to find a NEW 1 1/16” bore master cylinder for the Toyota T100 through Oreillys, part number NMC22744, I’m sure Napa, Autozone, and others have a version.

Because catolog information is so bad and I kept getting the wrong master cylinders, I confirmed by measuring the piston and bore.

You MUST remove the snap ring and measure the piston and the bore or it will be wrong. Period.

1.059 is perfect spec usually want .002 1.058 to 1.060

Next I measured the bore.

Again 1.063 is perfectly in spec for a 1.0625.

This confirms that this Master Cylinder is indeed the correct bore. Next will need to check piston rod depth. With the adapters everything should more or less fit but want to double check.

Below is a quick pic of the hydroboost, with @PIP adapter and new T100 master cylinder.

This isnt assembled it’s just mocked up for fitment.

 

[PIP]

I have bought a few of the 1-1/16" Toyota masters from Rockauto. I believe they were Denso brand and had Toyota script on them. I'll dig around for the part number.

 

[JoeCova]

I have bought a few of the 1-1/16" Toyota masters from Rockauto. I believe they were Denso brand and had Toyota script on them. I'll dig around for the part number.

That would be great!! I kept getting 13/16s even when it would say 1.06

 

[JoeCova]

Got the bumper painted and mounted. I debated having it powdered again but it’s just gonna get banged up anyway so just rattle canned it with some VHT and let cure.

Much better clearance and should be able to take some moderate hits.

 

[JoeCova]

When reinstalling the winch cabling one of my battery ground cables broke. I purchased these “HD” cables from a member here in MUD. I won’t call them out directly but the cables are crap, they may be larger gauge but lower quality with aluminum wiring (might be tinned copper) and are poorly crimped.

Checking the other cables confirmed they aren’t assembled correctly and high risk of breaking.

I repaired the cables by soldering the lugs properly but I ended up just repairing and reinstalling the higher quality OEM copper cables.

I wired things up to the Slee Offroad battery terminals. I’m not a fan.

 

[NeverFinis]

When reinstalling the winch cabling one of my battery ground cables broke. I purchased these “HD” cables from a member here in MUD. I won’t call them out directly but the cables are crap, they may be larger gauge but lower quality with aluminum wiring and are poorly crimped.

View attachment 4039400

Are you sure they are aluminum and not tinned copper? Was it even crimped?

 

[JoeCova]

Are you sure they are aluminum and not tinned copper? Was it even crimped?

That’s a fair point. I took a second look, opened up the cable and inspecting the strands, looks like tinned copper, that’s not as terrible as I initially thought

There was an attempt to crimp but I think the glued heat shrink is probably doing more of the work, once the heat shrink is torn I could wiggle the lugs.

 

[JoeCova]

Nothing new with the hydroboost as I’ve been collecting parts and assessing everything. I’m trying to make it work with ABS, and since I deleted that, I’ve been adding it back and then also fixing the ABS sensor codes since all of them were reporting errors. So each sensor was pulled and cleaned and working through the ABS plumbing.

So far whole system will come in under $1000 for everything which is a bunch better deal but expected with DIY.

I did get the JTX quad light conversion completed. It’s a mix of OEM and aftermarket parts. They use a relay box to reverse polarity to have the lights function with the factory switch. The relays aren’t replaceable and tied to a circuit board which will make field repair a PITA, I will likely go with @jcardona1 wire harness, since it’s a normal relay and offers quad low, quad high and the wiring is simple.

Halos

Low

High

 

[JoeCova]

So after getting hit by the life bat and being away for 4 months I am back to slowly finish up some of the work on the cruiser.

I finished the full reintegration of the factory ABS combined with hydroboost. First impressions is that it just brakes like normal now or what I would consider to be normal. I always felt like the pedal was squishy no matter how much I bled the brakes and I would have to dang near stand on the pedal at times otherwise the cruiser could almost crawl through the brakes on a trail. Now everything brakes like it should, bites hard, controlled and feels good.

*A note on the PSC Remote reservoir, I would NOT recommend the tall (8.75") Offroad reservoir as it is quite large and requires some work to ensure you can close the hood properly. With the added Derale cooler, there should be enough capacity with the normal 7.25" Offroad reservoir which will make fitment much much easier. Whatever you choose, make sure it has THREE ports.

Here is a bit of the parts I used, ill update if I forgot something.

1 x PIP Hydroboost Adapter
1 x PC3Z-2005-AA Ford Hydrobooster
1 x NMC22744 T100 1 1/16 Master Cylinder
1 x SR148OR-Extra Capacity Off Road Remote Fluid Reservoir, 8.75" Tall - #10 Feed, #6, Return
1 x Derale 13261 17" Dual Pass
1 x Solve Function (Outsane) PSC Power Steering Mount bracket
1 x -6 AN Hydroboost Brake Fitting Kit
1 x -6 JIC X 16MM-1.5 METRIC Inverted Flare
2 x -6 JIC X 17MM-1.5 METRIC Inverted Flare
1 x #10 (5/8) 120 Degree Push-Lock Low Pressure Fittings
2 x 3/8 NPT to 6AN Adapters
4 x #6 (3/8") 90 Degree Field Serviceable High-Pressure Fittings
6 x #6 (3/8) 90 Degree Push-Lock Low Pressure Fittings
1 x 6ft Bulk Hose, High-Pressure #6 (3/8" ID)
1 x 2ft Bulk Hose, Low Pressure #8 (5/8" ID)
1x 6 ft Bulk Hose, Low Pressure #6 (3/8" ID)

I think all said and done it was about $900-$1000 in parts.

Also don't judge my terrible rebending of the OEM brake lines. Keep in mind, I previously deleted the ABS before and have no brake line bending tools LOL, that's just my hands and pliers.

 

[JoeCova]

Also random picture now that I have finally been able to drive it after 4 months. Onto the Sliders.

 

[Mag71k5]

Not much to add, but I will say @jcardona1 harness has been working great for me for the last year and a half. He also helped me troubleshoot some cheap amazon 4x6 lights I bought, which he didn't have to do, ultimately I pinned a few wires wrong.