Ruffstuff full float conversion

[chicago]

Was wondering if anyone had converted their semi float to a full float using the ruffstuffspecialties conversion plate??
Seems interesting, but I don't know much about it.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I am looking into this myself as I have most of the stuff to do this.

My concern with this setup is lining up the conversion plates properly so that they are exactly parallel and inline with each other. I know that when axles are built there are pucks w/ holes in them inserted into a diff housing which is bolted in place. A bar is slid through the entire assembly and the plates are then aligned and welded in place.

For a trail rig that gets trailered and driven minimally on the street, I don't think it would be much of an issue, however, I have to drive my rig to and from the trail. So the alignment is much more critical.

I email ruffstuff saturday evening asking about this. I will update this thread when I get more info.

 

[dr_dobro]

I'm going to the same, and was looking to get a used FF, or get the flanges. The only issue is to custom make the shafts and buying an extra long side for spare. I also was working on a 14 bolt which has a 1.34" in diameter compared to 1.31 Toyota. It just doesn't justify to put a massive axle under a rig with a larger R&P and do all the custom work to it.

Apparently you can use your semi floating center section by just eliminating the c clips, and makes the build more affordable....

 

[chicago]

I am looking into this myself as I have most of the stuff to do this.

My concern with this setup is lining up the conversion plates properly so that they are exactly parallel and inline with each other. I know that when axles are built there are pucks w/ holes in them inserted into a diff housing which is bolted in place. A bar is slid through the entire assembly and the plates are then aligned and welded in place.

For a trail rig that gets trailered and driven minimally on the street, I don't think it would be much of an issue, however, I have to drive my rig to and from the trail. So the alignment is much more critical.

I email ruffstuff saturday evening asking about this. I will update this thread when I get more info.

That'd be great if you could post up what Dan tells you.
I'm not so concerned w/ the strength of the cruiser axles as much as I am concerned w/ the c clip ends.
I had one let loose and it scared the HELL out of me. It'd be nice to NOT Have to worry about it again.

 

[chicago]

I'm going to the same, and was looking to get a used FF, or get the flanges. The only issue is to custom make the shafts and buying an extra long side for spare. I also was working on a 14 bolt which has a 1.34" in diameter compared to 1.31 Toyota. It just doesn't justify to put a massive axle under a rig with a larger R&P and do all the custom work to it.

Apparently you can use your semi floating center section by just eliminating the c clips, and makes the build more affordable....

I was considering a 14 bolt as well, but... Need gears, lockers, new wrap bar in addition to cutting the tubes and crap....
I don't hammer on my rig, but the full float option IS something that I'd like for safety sake and piece of mind

 

[cody c]

That'd be great if you could post up what Dan tells you.
I'm not so concerned w/ the strength of the cruiser axles as much as I am concerned w/ the c clip ends.
I had one let loose and it scared the HELL out of me. It'd be nice to NOT Have to worry about it again.

rear disc's mighta kept things a little less scary.

Im curious as to Dan's reccomendations for how to align the splindle flanges properly before you weld them in as well.

 

[Tapage]

rear disc's mighta kept things a little less scary.

actually that safe my A** twice .. ( to broken stock SF rears ) and one of those allow me to drive back home from close trail ..

 

[cody c]

actually that safe my A** twice .. ( to broken stock SF rears ) and one of those allow me to drive back home from close trail ..

I need to do this for my 92 fj80 one day. Its a little more at risk of breaking rear SF shafts than my hilux I figure. Just swapped a broken front birf in the 80 actually.

 

[Fast Eddy]

My concern with this setup is lining up the conversion plates properly so that they are exactly parallel and inline with each other.

You just have to build the outers with the axles, hubs, bearings and the plate (no seal), install the diff with a few nuts, and slide the whole assembly into place before you weld it. It was easy and I don't see how it's possible to make it anything other than perfect. The axle and diff acts as the alignment bar you're talking about.

Mine is an fzj80 housing, but the principle is the same.

 

[chicago]

You just have to build the outers with the axles, hubs, bearings and the plate (no seal), install the diff with a few nuts, and slide the whole assembly into place before you weld it. It was easy and I don't see how it's possible to make it anything other than perfect. The axle and diff acts as the alignment bar you're talking about.

Mine is an fzj80 housing, but the principle is the same.

Now that's a good thought!!!
I was thinking it would be a LOT more complicated than that, but it makes sense now that you mention it.
So, essentially all you have to do is cut off (carefully) the stock plate and set the FF plate on, assemble, snugly, and get a good solid tack weld in?
Sounds like you can use off the shelf FF shafts??

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Now that's a good thought!!!
I was thinking it would be a LOT more complicated than that, but it makes sense now that you mention it.
So, essentially all you have to do is cut off (carefully) the stock plate and set the FF plate on, assemble, snugly, and get a good solid tack weld in?
Sounds like you can use off the shelf FF shafts??

The RuffStuff full floater setup will make the axle wider than any of the stock applications I can think of, though, Nitro has cut to length cromo full floater axle shafts which I think would work well in this application.

 

[chicago]

The RuffStuff full floater setup will make the axle wider than any of the stock applications I can think of, though, Nitro has cut to length cromo full floater axle shafts which I think would work well in this application.

So I would have to chop some of the housing down to make them stock width??

 

[cody c]

So I would have to chop some of the housing down to make them stock width??

yes, because of the extra width added by the spindles/hubs vs. the SF flange at the end of the tube.

 

[cody c]

You just have to build the outers with the axles, hubs, bearings and the plate (no seal), install the diff with a few nuts, and slide the whole assembly into place before you weld it. It was easy and I don't see how it's possible to make it anything other than perfect. The axle and diff acts as the alignment bar you're talking about.

Mine is an fzj80 housing, but the principle is the same.

The only thing is, you need to have the axleshafts bolted on the hub, the spindle bolted to the ruff stuff plate, and the FF shafts in the differential.

Which is fine, but if your building one out of a SF housing and are ordering custom shafts for it at the final length, then you need to measure and order the FF shafts for it before building it. (just a bit of foresight required)

some axle shaft machinists wont build them with the flange'd end to bolt directly to the hub, but will instead put splines on them to use a hub flange like on an fzj80's front full time hub. In this situation you will likely have a bit more "slop" between the splines and the flange with the extra weight of the hub/spindle/ruffstuff flange bolted to it. Which would make it a bit more difficult to get it perfect.

Having said that, I havent built one yet and apparently you have, so what axle shafts did you use? Stock Im guessing?

You could also use a larger axleshaft for the rear, and even a tundra 10.5" diff, though Im not sure what the max size is, Id have to measure the I.D. of the spindle.

 

[Slowerthanu]

yes, because of the extra width added by the spindles/hubs vs. the SF flange at the end of the tube.

Are you sure, the wheel slides over the bearing assembly and mounts against the rotor in a similar location. I can see maybe an inch difference in width unless I am missing something.

I'm pretty sure that there are companies making the pucks that keep the housing aligned. Once you hit that point though, why not just purchase one of Dan's housing with the flanges welded?

My plan is to run one of Dan's rear housings (front FJ60 width) with the FF flanges, used front spindles and hub housings along with the brake components (or the new Trail Gear pieces if I can't source the used parts for cheap) and hopefully some of Bobby's shafts if he gets healthy enough again. Otherwise more shaft builders are coming onto the scene.

The upgraded housing will add some serious strength and remove the issue of properly aligning. Granted, you will have to cut everything off but how many times have we had to do that anyways.

 

[Toyoland66]

Why not run nitro or PP full floater chro-mo shafts at either 40 or 60 stock width. If you plan to go wider you might as well use a FZJ80 full floater.

 

[chicago]

Why not run nitro or PP full floater chro-mo shafts at either 40 or 60 stock width. If you plan to go wider you might as well use a FZJ80 full floater.

This is my plan... I'm just trying to find out if it'll work or not.
I want OFF THE SHELF replacement axles and don't wanna have to deal w/ custom widths AT ALL!!
Seems no ones really ventured down this road too far to give definitive advice on it.
I'm looking at this as a lil winter project, so... Wanna get all the ducks in a row.

 

[chicago]

I e mailed Dan of ruff stuff on this...
I learned to NOT e mail him if you want any information.
So I'll just have to call.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I e mailed Dan of ruff stuff on this...
I learned to NOT e mail him if you want any information.
So I'll just have to call.

Yeah, I still haven't heard anything back from him.
*shrugs*

 

[chicago]

Yeah, I still haven't heard anything back from him.
*shrugs*

He responded, but the answers were one or two words with no real information where I was Hoping for more to go from.
This went on for about 3 e mails and I just decided that I wasn't gonna get him to sit still to give me a real answer for the questions I have.
I suspect he's pretty busy though.