RTH: 1994 FZJ80 Transmission issue? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 19, 2016
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279
Location
Bay Area California
Website
www.kingleidinger.com
Hi all,
Getting towards the end of our (Central American) Pan-American journey now, the FZJ80 is scheduled to go into a container on Friday in Colon Panama. However, we've had an issue today, or a few issues perhaps, that are giving me a bit of pause.

We had the car washed today including a bit of a spray at the motor to wash off some of the gunk for customs inspection. Afterwards I observed that there was a LOT of shudder, especially when I shifted into drive. I was thinking that some water had gotten somewhere it shouldn't have.

However, the shudder went away over the course of the rest of the day's driving, replaced by a new issue: the car seems to slip into neutral if you are attempting to accelerate up a hill at around 50mph. I would say that it's right at the point where it would usually downshift to give a bit more power.

I should give a bit of background in that the transmission hump, and possibly the engine itself, has HUGELY heated up over the past few months when climbing. I notice this especially because I ripped out the original center console and replaced it with a Tuffy (thanks for that mod everyone!) and there isn't a lot preventing heat transmission from the hump to the passenger compartment. I attributed this potentially to needing something like a new air filter or fuel filter, or just heat due to the humidity and heat we are experiencing in Central America, but perhaps it is in fact the transmission having some issues?

To check the engine itself, when we parked, I put the brake on and put the car in neutral and revved it - nothing sounded bad at all.

I saw the thread below, and the other thread where Dan suggested shift solenoids, and that would probably be my first stop, but any other thoughts? Moreover, can anyone put my mind at ease that the LC is not going to totally expire imminently, because we're about to spend some cash on containering it back to the US of A.

Thanks in advance!! Michael

1993 FZJ80 Transmission slips in forward gears
 
I have experienced no reverse lights, un-lit shift indicator lights and occasional no 1st gear starts in drive on a 94. That barrel connector connects to a lot of functions. If you do not have the inner fender rubber splash guards in place, i would highly recommend replacing them when you can. I have fitted most all of the 80's I have worked on with custom ones made from rubber semi-mud flaps.
 
Hmm, thanks for the tips! Interestingly, the next day (presumably when whatever was wet had dried out a bit more), the downshifting was back to normal instead of neutral (the car does still start at a higher rev level than I think is normal). No CEL. The car's on its way to the container now (there is "valet parking" at the container port, yikes) but when it gets back to the USA, hopefully I can find an LC expert on the east coast somewhere (driving north from Miami to Mass) to have a look.
 
Will you be documenting your epic journey here in mud? I hope so!
 
Thanks for the interest! Not in mud, but we do have a blog (in English/German), the link is in my profile. I still have to write something about Panama...
 
Car wash + 94 transmission problem=Neutral safety switch barrel connector corrosion issue. Located right under the PHH.

I wanted to check my connector for corrosion but I see 3 of them under there near the PHH. Two have square-ish plugs and are close to the starter and one closer to the engine block looks to have a round plug. Which of these 3 is the right one for the transmission?
 
I wanted to check my connector for corrosion but I see 3 of them under there near the PHH. Two have square-ish plugs and are close to the starter and one closer to the engine block looks to have a round plug. Which of these 3 is the right one for the transmission?
The round barrel plug goes to the NSS.
 
I have experienced no reverse lights, un-lit shift indicator lights and occasional no 1st gear starts in drive on a 94. That barrel connector connects to a lot of functions. If you do not have the inner fender rubber splash guards in place, i would highly recommend replacing them when you can. I have fitted most all of the 80's I have worked on with custom ones made from rubber semi-mud flaps.

Hey @SUMMIT CRUISERS do you have any pictures or a write up on this? I/'m missing the DS splash cover and would love a visual or two to go off of. Thanks!
 
Hey @SUMMIT CRUISERS do you have any pictures or a write up on this? I/'m missing the DS splash cover and would love a visual or two to go off of. Thanks!

Here's a couple pics:

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
Fwiw, I've been chasing a shifting issue for the past 9 months. Happened just after I went through a water crossing. Shuttered, stalled, then idled rough. Wouldn't hold an idle either, if left unattended it would stall out. Rpms at idle were between 2k and 4K. In addition, my cruiser would prematurely shift into third, basically shifting from 1st into 3rd. Not confidence inspiring when merging into traffic! Oh and ALL of this with no CEL. FFFFFFFF!!

So I tried new plugs, rotor, distributor cap, replaced both the battery and alt as it needed it anyhow, performed a Trans fluid exchange, cleaned the throttle body, discovered my fuel filter had been deleted...eventually took it to a shop to little avail.

Been lurking the forums extra hard these past few days looking for an answer and found this thread and a couple others where @SUMMIT CRUISERS suggested the culprit could be the NSS. I pulled mine apart re sat the rubber boots looked at the blades of the male end and they looked good, at which point, my heart sank a little. But I thought, " Eff it, it's open, time for some dialectric grease" I filled the cavity snapped it back together, took it for a drive, AND IT SHIFTED LIKE A DREAM!!

It's a bit early to claim victory but I'm feeling really optimistic.

Next step is to make a splash guard as my OEM has been missing for some time.
 
I am going to have a look at the barrel connector when we get up to Massachusetts. Worth noting that I also had a CEL code 28 the other day, so it's very possible that some of the truck's issues are caused by faulty o2 sensors. Anyone gotten Toyota to cough up for new 93/94 oxygen sensors this year yet on the SSC? Mine doesn't seem to have had this done.
 
Also - anyone got a good LC mechanic in the MA south shore/cape area?
 
Looks like I was wrong - the SSC had been done, 21 years ago. :doh:
By the time I got up here to cape cod I had also noticed the larger PCV hose was cracked and had a lot of gunk around the crack, so I'm going to replace that and take it to a local mechanic to pronounce it fit before I do anything else that costs serious $.

BTW, are there only two O2 sensors on a 1994? I was under the truck today and only saw two (with the typical messed up nuts, yay), but I might have missed something. Going to have to get the running boards off to do anything serious under there without a lift, my clearance under there isn't so hot.:cookie:
 
'94s only have 2 O2 sensors.
 
Fwiw, I've been chasing a shifting issue for the past 9 months. Happened just after I went through a water crossing. Shuttered, stalled, then idled rough. Wouldn't hold an idle either, if left unattended it would stall out. Rpms at idle were between 2k and 4K. In addition, my cruiser would prematurely shift into third, basically shifting from 1st into 3rd. Not confidence inspiring when merging into traffic! Oh and ALL of this with no CEL. FFFFFFFF!!

So I tried new plugs, rotor, distributor cap, replaced both the battery and alt as it needed it anyhow, performed a Trans fluid exchange, cleaned the throttle body, discovered my fuel filter had been deleted...eventually took it to a shop to little avail.

Been lurking the forums extra hard these past few days looking for an answer and found this thread and a couple others where @SUMMIT CRUISERS suggested the culprit could be the NSS. I pulled mine apart re sat the rubber boots looked at the blades of the male end and they looked good, at which point, my heart sank a little. But I thought, " Eff it, it's open, time for some dialectric grease" I filled the cavity snapped it back together, took it for a drive, AND IT SHIFTED LIKE A DREAM!!

It's a bit early to claim victory but I'm feeling really optimistic.

Next step is to make a splash guard as my OEM has been missing for some time.


Happy to report that this fix is still going strong

/end hijack
 
In case anyone's still watching - Just did o2 sensors (1994) today. I can confirm that you will be much happier removing/reattaching (especially reattaching) the heat shield with a 12mm racheting box end wrench (which will also be useful for the o2 sensor nuts, depending on the size of your regular ratchet). 3/4 of my nuts were fine after an overnight soak in PB blaster. The fourth (the outside one, thankfully), required a bit more effort.

full


The miniature vise grips didn't do the trick, but drilling the nut then using a hammer and chisel did...three hours later. If any of the other three nuts hadn't come off immediately, I'd have been up s-t creek without a paddle.
 

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