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Thanks, your compliments give me the satisfaction of knowing I got the job done.
Rick
ROTM: January 2009
- Thread starter rchalmers3
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Thanks, your compliments give me the satisfaction of knowing I got the job done.
Rick
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Cool landcruiser!Any more info on the 130 Rover pickup?
I was wondering if any cruiser heads were going to have comments about that last photo. Your request for more info is a surprise for it's civility!
Both LR's in the photos are clients. I occasionally do work for pocket money. I get to drive and work on another "third world" conqueror, and reconfirm the superior engineering of Toyotas.
The Defender pickup has an electrical issue involving the turn indicators and integrated alarm system. Without a comprehensive FSM all I could do was to confirm the fuses, switches and relays were good. I'm taking it to the big city next week for a dealer visit.
Rick
an electrical issue in a landrover? unbelievable.
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Hey, thats more like what I was expecting! C'mon guys, I teed it up, who else is swinging?
Rick
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Update since January
Well, It's been 10 months or so since my last installment in our family wagon saga. I just got my computer back after waiting a few months for it to get repaired, allowing me to read the card from my camera, and post up some maintenance and progress photos.
Before it started raining, I went to the big city and bought a sheet of 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. With some cutting, sanding and riveting, I created a solution for the old dingy, buckled interior panels. While the panel was off, I relocated the bracket for hanging the washer bag, opening the space above the well created in the body behind the wheel arch. I now have all my recovery gear (snatch block, chains, straps, tie downs, shackles, Hi lift come-along parts, gloves) carried in a stored position on board. It used to be that I would load this 60 some odd pounds of freight when wheeling, but now it's there 24/7.
One of these days I'll get to gettin the interior cargo area Rhino lined or some paint equivalent. If there was some way to get some Duraback product down here, I'd be all over it. I thought of smuggling a gallon down in my luggage......
Well, It's been 10 months or so since my last installment in our family wagon saga. I just got my computer back after waiting a few months for it to get repaired, allowing me to read the card from my camera, and post up some maintenance and progress photos.
Before it started raining, I went to the big city and bought a sheet of 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. With some cutting, sanding and riveting, I created a solution for the old dingy, buckled interior panels. While the panel was off, I relocated the bracket for hanging the washer bag, opening the space above the well created in the body behind the wheel arch. I now have all my recovery gear (snatch block, chains, straps, tie downs, shackles, Hi lift come-along parts, gloves) carried in a stored position on board. It used to be that I would load this 60 some odd pounds of freight when wheeling, but now it's there 24/7.
One of these days I'll get to gettin the interior cargo area Rhino lined or some paint equivalent. If there was some way to get some Duraback product down here, I'd be all over it. I thought of smuggling a gallon down in my luggage......
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That looks great Rick! Any extra 'rattling' with that setup?Before it started raining, I went to the big city and bought a sheet of 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. With some cutting, sanding and riveting, I created a solution for the old dingy, buckled interior panels. While the panel was off, I relocated the bracket for hanging the washer bag, opening the space above the well created in the body behind the wheel arch.
Butt
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BUC,
No rattles! I was worried about that and took pains to not install noises. Screwing the panels around the perimeter helped. A slim strip of foam on the inside of the right side isolated the panel from the internal body braces. The latch Tee handle is quality: the handle is under constant tension to avoid movement. The latch bracket is formed to pull the door into slight tension when closed. Finally, at the top corners of the panel door, I added stick on pads to keep the rattles away.
After installing I did have a rhythmic "bumping" from the back that turned out to be the washer motor swinging and bumping into the panel, so I glued on a piece of foam to prevent contact.
I have more material and latches to build more storage in the tailgate, and may do this sometime when I feel its required.
Rick
No rattles! I was worried about that and took pains to not install noises. Screwing the panels around the perimeter helped. A slim strip of foam on the inside of the right side isolated the panel from the internal body braces. The latch Tee handle is quality: the handle is under constant tension to avoid movement. The latch bracket is formed to pull the door into slight tension when closed. Finally, at the top corners of the panel door, I added stick on pads to keep the rattles away.
After installing I did have a rhythmic "bumping" from the back that turned out to be the washer motor swinging and bumping into the panel, so I glued on a piece of foam to prevent contact.
I have more material and latches to build more storage in the tailgate, and may do this sometime when I feel its required.
Rick
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The truck ran pretty well this year, and has not required any major repairs. One thing I noticed recently was that the front spring shackle perches on the frame were nearly torn off. I had heard a single report snap or crack on flexing the left front suspension for a while, but had not investigated closely.
I disassembled the front shackles and laid triple pass welds over the cracks.I didn't have any .035 wire, so I fought to get adequate penetration using .023 wire and the MIG current cranked up. Those of you who have experience will know that passing too much current through small wire makes it hard to lay a bead.
I got the penetration, but the welds looked like a horror movie, so you only get to see the final work painted!
I disassembled the front shackles and laid triple pass welds over the cracks.I didn't have any .035 wire, so I fought to get adequate penetration using .023 wire and the MIG current cranked up. Those of you who have experience will know that passing too much current through small wire makes it hard to lay a bead.
I got the penetration, but the welds looked like a horror movie, so you only get to see the final work painted!
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My curiosity got the best of me this summer. I was wondering how the fuel metering was set on my truck. Not that I expected to have any issues, but maybe if it was trimmed conservatively I could dial it up a little!
I chose the IssPro Pyrometer with the colored gauge and 270* sweep, to complement the movement and style of the stock gauges. Installation is very straight forward with no surprises. My truck is 24v, but with the added capacity of the inverter, I hooked this accessory to my 12v source, thus grouping my added accessories on one circuit, and leaving the factory wiring intact.
The illumination lamps are 2watt, 24v with green prophylactics, hooked to the rheostat function on the dash illumination lights.
I installed the probe where it was convinient, in the exhaust down pipe. My thought is that if I ever do something to add a charged air system, I can tap the manifold at that time.
Results......
The fuel trim is spot on as is. About once a month I have a need to go to the city via pavement road. If I drive hard on a looong uphill with my foot stuffed in it (not my style), the temps will raise up and up and up into the red. I was very pleased to see I have not been starving the motor, nor abusing it with too much fuel.
I can now safely adjust the fuel for the purpose of testing for a seat-of-the-pants power difference running it leaner or richer. This testing is not a priority, however I am interested to learn the real world differences in adjusting the fuel for power. Surely I am not the only forum member who dreams of building a chassis dyno???
Rick
I chose the IssPro Pyrometer with the colored gauge and 270* sweep, to complement the movement and style of the stock gauges. Installation is very straight forward with no surprises. My truck is 24v, but with the added capacity of the inverter, I hooked this accessory to my 12v source, thus grouping my added accessories on one circuit, and leaving the factory wiring intact.
The illumination lamps are 2watt, 24v with green prophylactics, hooked to the rheostat function on the dash illumination lights.
I installed the probe where it was convinient, in the exhaust down pipe. My thought is that if I ever do something to add a charged air system, I can tap the manifold at that time.
Results......
The fuel trim is spot on as is. About once a month I have a need to go to the city via pavement road. If I drive hard on a looong uphill with my foot stuffed in it (not my style), the temps will raise up and up and up into the red. I was very pleased to see I have not been starving the motor, nor abusing it with too much fuel.
I can now safely adjust the fuel for the purpose of testing for a seat-of-the-pants power difference running it leaner or richer. This testing is not a priority, however I am interested to learn the real world differences in adjusting the fuel for power. Surely I am not the only forum member who dreams of building a chassis dyno???
Rick
nice job, Rick.
looks like a terrible place to live................................................................