Build Rocklander 77-series build

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NM Frontier said:
That is sweet! This is going to be a beast and a fun build to watch.

Looks like from the pictures that you might be able to keep the flares on even. Or are you going to have to trim some out?
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If I want much up travel yes will have to trim some. I want to keep the flares or some version of flares. OEM look best to me.

Pictures make the tires look much more “donut” than in person as well.

Cheers
 
I ordered leaf springs!!

I dislike poly bushings so I ordered OEM rubber to go with the aftermarket leaves.

I also ordered FROR high steer & knuckles (that’s Front Range Off-Road), I am going to wait and see before I say much else!! I also have zero idea on eta for the RuffStuff housing as well.

I think all I don’t have now (have as in not ordered) to build out axles and suspension 100% is rear shocks to match front (I have rear shocks just not 2.5’s!), wheels, tires, rear leaf spring slider and front e-locker. Rear leaf spring slider to match the front, I want to run the same setup front & rear if possible.

I have received the front leaf spring slider by the way, it allows me to not run shackles! More to come on this, a few of you may know what I am going on about!?

Cheers
 
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IMO the FROR high steer knuckles are superior with there keyed steering arms 😎 good call !
 
To give an idea on heights with the 38’s. I don’t see it being more than 2” higher than this on SoA, who knows maybe lower. I have never done a SoA without shackles! 🤣🤪🤙

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Cheers
 
With a lot of Cruisers once you go big rubber the front wheel well backside at the firewall becomes a problem. We will move the front axle forward here and carve up the body as needed to solve this rub issue with the big rubber.

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In the rear to start with we will need to center the axle. Carve up the wheel well after that. Under compression the axle will move back, under droop it will move forward.

It’s all kinds of ass right now with current suspension but hey, crazy how the 38 fills the wheel well!

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Rubbing here at firewall and or back of inner fenders at this turning radius which is ass. Push front axle forward and carve the rub areas under max compression is the solution.

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It is really giving me the vibe that it will work awesome in the end with my plans and purchased parts (!), ie; be low, be stable and flex like a champ for leaf springs and a daily driver. That is the goal anyways! 🫥🤙

Cheers
 
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Seems like pictures make everything look like a “fishbowl” or maybe that is just my phone?

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Anyways those are 38’s! This thing has what 4-5” of SuA lift? I am excited to build it SoA and nice and low with quality parts! Something different which is rad! 💪😎🤘

Cheers
 
SNLC said:
In the rear to start with we will need to center the axle. Carve up the wheel well after that. Under compression the axle will move back, under droop it will move forward.
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What's the best way to move the axle forward? Redrill the spring perch bolt bolts and adjust? I'm having the same issue with rubbing on the rear fender/flare during compression. And like you mentioned, I'd like to ideally not have to cut up my nice flares. I know you are doing SOA, so the process might be different then stock layout.

I also feel this pain lol 😭
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mjw4 said:
What's the best way to move the axle forward? Redrill the spring perch bolt bolts and adjust? I'm having the same issue with rubbing on the rear fender/flare during compression. And like you mentioned, I'd like to ideally not have to cut up my nice flares. I know you are doing SOA, so the process might be different then stock layout.

I also feel this pain lol 😭
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I am going to cut all the mounts off the frame and set the axles right where I want them.

Yes you can drill the springs and or limit up travel to stop the rubbing.

Cheers
 
Lots of ass going on here with the fender flares and side steps. Obviously I am removing it all. Lots of bondo and rust in it too.

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Cheers
 
svsisu said:
I was thinking drywall screw, more fitting for filler :meh:
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Yup bunch of them on it. Wire ties and butyl tape too to hold it all together! 🤣

Cheers
 
More parts laying around the shop. HZJ79 nearly new exhaust system. While I do plan to swap in my 1HDFT at the moment the 1HZ exhaust is pretty toast. So I think I will cut this up and fit it until the FT goes in.

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Cheers
 
Again, super ass homemade flare brackets. Not sure why a person would do this when OEM parts are available and not very expensive. I also believe all this janky work was done in Japan prior to import. I just need to remove any of these that are like knives right now.

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Loving the low lift and 38’s! It will come up SoA but not a lot by my estimation. First order of business after getting the new 80-series axles under it will be to trim/cut sheet metal out of the way in the wheel wells for tire clearance under compression. I do plan to run some kind of flares but for now I need these OEM scabbed on flares out of the way.

Cheers
 
38’s are starting to look like 35’s to me after a week or so of looking at this! 🤣🤦‍♂️

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Cheers
 
Front wheel well has much more clearance at the front so going to move the front axle as far forward as possible. I am sure we will still have to carve out the firewall side a bit.

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In the back, I want to do most of the carving at the rear of the wheel wells, let’s see how that goes during the build process. 🤙

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Cheers
 
Hello,

I may have skipped this detail, and I apologize if it was already considered/answered.

Have you considered portal axles, or a portal axle conversion? It might come in handy with the tires.

Just curious.





Juan
 
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