Build Rockcod’s final ride, Morty the Forty

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Back from Bonneville and back in the garage. Painted and reinstalled the battery mount, wired the relay/fuse panel inside the glove box, wired the alternator and mounted the under hood power distribution box. I still need to measure for positive and negative battery cables and install my fuel delivery system, I am so close to firing this thing up!

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Had a couple of hours this morning to work in the garage, pulled out the fuel delivery parts and laid them out only to find out I’m missing a couple of an6 fittings to make it all work. The only real progress I made was mounting the pressure regulator 🤦🏻‍♂️. Dead in the water until Monday.

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rockcod said:
Spent some time in the garage today, got the battery mounted. Bolted a mounting plate to the factory holes in the firewall where the fan used to mount and welded the battery mount to it. The battery is mounted very solid and not going anywhere. Now I can figure out where my auxiliary relay/fuse box will mount and plan my next move for the wiring.

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Hi! To clarify, that battery mount is totally custom? Or it’s something you bought off the shelf? I yanked my heat recently and would love to move my battery to the firewall.
 
Started running lines to fuel rail and regulator and for various reasons I quickly found out the original placement of the regulator was not going to work. So, I relocated it to the driver side of the firewall.
Mounted the 100 micron filter and connected it to a bulkhead fitting to get it through the body. I ran out of 90* and 45* so o am finished for today.

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Finished the fuel lines this morning, I ran the lines inside the frame and as high up as possible to protect them from trail damage and heat from the exhaust. Now to flush the lines, re-tighten all connections, fill the engine with oil and 🤞🏼 fire this thing to life!

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Working through my wiring nightmare, finally got the LS to fire off. I have a few small fuel leaks to take care of (fuel rail o-rings), waiting for them to be delivered today. I removed the VATS, EGR, downstream O2 sensors and the cats, no codes for any of those. I did throw codes for no auto trans recognized or the the gas pedal. Knowing my limitations, I dropped off the ECU at CBM motorsports in Colton to have them take care of those issues.

 
The factory oil sender is not compatible with my auto meter gauges and the sender that came with my oil gauge is way too big to fit in the factory location. I opted to go with a tapped block off plate just above the oil filter on the oil pan.

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My last gauge is now hooked up, the bushing that comes with the gauge is the wrong thread pitch for the LS engine. Go figure the GM engine is metric and requires an M12x1.5 male to 1/8 NPT female.

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Whitey, that’s what I’m really looking forward to, the drive ability and reliability.The wiring for the engine is finished, now to do the chassis wiring, switches, make brake lines, drive shafts, swap out the adaptor plate, find the correct clutch fork, clearance the rear wheel wells, tires, mount the seats blah blah blah. I’m close and yet so far.
 
Why do you have two fuel pressure regulators?
You know that there’s a regulator on your fuel rail already, right? They work great.
Also, don’t be surprised if you have a misfire from those injector plug adapters. It is way better to change the actual connector on your harness or just use different injectors.
 
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Yeah, I just replaced the factory regulator, the old one was leaking. It came with kit I bought so I’m using it. The adaptors fit pretty loose and do not have a positive connection, they are on my list to replace.

This is my first experience with an LS motor, so there will be growing pains.
 
rockcod said:
Yeah, I just replaced the factory regulator, the old one was leaking. It came with kit I bought so I’m using it. The adaptors fit pretty loose and do not have a positive connection, they are on my list to replace.

This is my first experience with an LS motor, so there will be growing pains.
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Delete the adjustable regulator and just go straight from your filter outlet to the larger port on your fuel rail. The smaller outlet on your fuel rail should just go straight back to your tank (return). Having a bunch of extra high pressure fuel connections is just risk of a fuel leak for no reason. The OEM regulators usually work better then the cheap Chinese adjustable ones anyways.
 
Matt,

I’ve gotten differing views on the factory regulator, I do like having a pressure gauge though. Funny you mentioned the adaptors on the injectors, when I first got the harness and had it laid out fixing the wiring to work with the truck ECU I was looking at them and telling myself to change the plugs. More work for myself 🤦🏻‍♂️

Thanks for your input!!!
 
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