Build RINZLER: 2026 Tundra TRD Pro Build
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- Thread starter
- #22
Been busy trying to get ready for camping season and generally doing everything outdoors, but I did get to do some truck stuff.
I ditched the undersized Falken AT3s and changed out my winter tires for a set of TOYO AT3 in 35x12.5. They look like stock sized tires but maybe I look at truck stuff too much. No rubbing anywhere but I don’t think I could have gone bigger without a lift which I’m currently trying to avoid (losing battle).
I wanted the RT trails but as much as I drive I needed a tire that would last longer.
I ditched the undersized Falken AT3s and changed out my winter tires for a set of TOYO AT3 in 35x12.5. They look like stock sized tires but maybe I look at truck stuff too much. No rubbing anywhere but I don’t think I could have gone bigger without a lift which I’m currently trying to avoid (losing battle).
I wanted the RT trails but as much as I drive I needed a tire that would last longer.
- Thread starter
- #23
I also got to tow our camper for the first time today. Nothing crazy to report but man, having nearly 200 more HP and 250+ more torque sure does make easy work of towing.
The added length of the truck is a huge improvement in the drivability dept too. Temp was 85 today with 25 mph crosswind and I didn’t even notice it. I would’ve been wrestling with my 100 to go straight.
Not pictured is the 30mm spacer I used from the 100 and swapped onto the rear springs. Now I have just the right amount of rake I think.
The added length of the truck is a huge improvement in the drivability dept too. Temp was 85 today with 25 mph crosswind and I didn’t even notice it. I would’ve been wrestling with my 100 to go straight.
Not pictured is the 30mm spacer I used from the 100 and swapped onto the rear springs. Now I have just the right amount of rake I think.
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- #24
If I’m knit-picking, I noticed while towing that the rear springs will ultimately need to be replaced with something that has a higher load rating and the shocks unfortunately are under-damped with any load which is disappointing. Having said that I understand the application is for an unladen truck.
Been looking a lot at the OME BP-51 vs MT -64. We shall see.
Been looking a lot at the OME BP-51 vs MT -64. We shall see.
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- #25
I finally had some time last weekend to knock out of couple of projects.
In the first picture, it felt weird wiring everything through the cab like this, but this is what I've seen them do over on the Tundra forums.
I'll be honest, I was a little surprised how "sealed" the compartment is for the battery. Makes sense with the air filters on each side, but even finding a small enough gap in the seats/ panels was a bit of a chore.
Next picture is the Fuse block I'm utilizing as I'm also in the process of adding my ARB Air compressor, adding a hook-up for my ARB Zero Fridge that currently resides in my camper. The back panel pops off pretty easily and behind the sound deadening cloth there's a vent near the bottom center of the cab (pictured in the last picture)
Although I'm not so new to wiring, this is first time using MIDI fuses with regular ATC fuses in the same block. I can't imagine my needs exceeding this but I'm excited because this eliminates the need (I think) for the large bulky inline fuses that come with the higher draw items like the compressor.
Just a pic of the installed Anderson port. Having used one of these on my 100 series I learned living in the North this needs to be well-sealed which took a little more work but I'm happy how it turned out, although not as happy to see just how much plastic the bumper is comprised of. But at least the mounting unit itself is honestly pretty well-sealed.
Before I get dogged, this was a prior pic before I shrouded the wire. Snaking the wire through here was honestly much easier than in-cab.
In the first picture, it felt weird wiring everything through the cab like this, but this is what I've seen them do over on the Tundra forums.
I'll be honest, I was a little surprised how "sealed" the compartment is for the battery. Makes sense with the air filters on each side, but even finding a small enough gap in the seats/ panels was a bit of a chore.
Next picture is the Fuse block I'm utilizing as I'm also in the process of adding my ARB Air compressor, adding a hook-up for my ARB Zero Fridge that currently resides in my camper. The back panel pops off pretty easily and behind the sound deadening cloth there's a vent near the bottom center of the cab (pictured in the last picture)
Although I'm not so new to wiring, this is first time using MIDI fuses with regular ATC fuses in the same block. I can't imagine my needs exceeding this but I'm excited because this eliminates the need (I think) for the large bulky inline fuses that come with the higher draw items like the compressor.
Just a pic of the installed Anderson port. Having used one of these on my 100 series I learned living in the North this needs to be well-sealed which took a little more work but I'm happy how it turned out, although not as happy to see just how much plastic the bumper is comprised of. But at least the mounting unit itself is honestly pretty well-sealed.
Before I get dogged, this was a prior pic before I shrouded the wire. Snaking the wire through here was honestly much easier than in-cab.
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- Thread starter
- #26
I also mounted the ARB compressor in the bed. I'll get some pics pending my final decision. I had my previous compressors mounted under the hood and I think just because it's unfamiliar I'm not sure I like the compressor mounted freely in the bed even though it will always be covered by either a tonneau or cap.
- Thread starter
- #27
I posted in the Power Systems section, but I figured I'd post here for increased visibility:
Charge lndicator Questions
Having an issue possibly with feedback from the wiring.
Charge lndicator Questions
Having an issue possibly with feedback from the wiring.