Rigger's disc brake conversion

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Thanks for the comments, John. I am replacing every line on the truck with new 10mm stuff. I am also doing the rear disc conversion. All the old stuff goes into the trash barrel.

I'm not sure how a new clutch master is gonna fit. I have to order a new one. My old one was leaking. The old one seems to fit, but I am getting the update kit, so have to wait and see.

I appreciate your comments, questions and encouragement!
 
Got the rear end up on stands, opened the pumpkin. Somewhere in there are the clips that I need to remove so I can pull the axles.
Rear Axle.webp
 
Photos of removal of C-clips:

1) Remove retaining bolt.

2) Remove pin. Not sure the exact name for that pin. I pushed it and it slid right out.

3) Block falls out easily.
Sat 002.webp
Sat 004.webp
Sat 005.webp
 
Go to side of truck and push axle inward. It will move in about 1/2" or so. Then, the C-clip can be easily removed. It will just about fall out. There is one C-clip for each half axle, so you do this step twice.
Sat 007.webp
 
Once the C-clip is out, pull the axle out carefully. See pic one. Axle standing on floor.

Then undo those backer plate bolts and remove the old drum brake backing plate. See pic two.

(Listen to me narrating like I'm a pro or something! :) I had to look at FSM and call Toyrod to get this far! I'm such a rookie!)
Sat 009.webp
Sat 010.webp
 
I had to grind that little nub on the caliper to get things seated in the Poser bracket. Pic 1.

Also did the clearancing where the banjo bolt goes to allow the brake hose to go inboard across the leaf spring. Pic 2.

Here it is all mocked up. Pic 3. The GM rotors are also from Poser. Center section properly opened up to fit the Cruiser. (Pic 3 also makes it abundantly clear that my rear pinion seal is dying!)
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I have a tendancy to repeat myself, so if I am doing that now, you'll have to forgive me. I bought a new clutch master kit from SOR. I will have to install this soon, too.

As you can see, this is not only a disc brakes thread. It is a disc brakes, heater hoses, and clutch master thread! :)
Sat 022.webp
 
Looks like a nice setup. What persuaded you to mount the calipers forward?
 
Toyrod said:
Looks like a nice setup. What persuaded you to mount the calipers forward?
Click to expand...

I mocked it up both ways. I felt like the brake hose is better protected with the caliper forward.
 
Nice work Rigger,you are at it again! I mounted my calipers forward also.I did not pull my rear axles,I just unbolted& hacked off the backing plates.
You are doing it right as you can put new seals in and?. Im' sure there is more you can do wile you have them apart.
Keep up the good work& photos
Thanks,John
 
SouthBostonFJ said:
Rigger,
Did you need to replace the axle seals?
Click to expand...

I may have gone wrong here; I pulled the axles, checked the seals, they looked okay to me, so I put the axles back in. I'm betting now that it would have been a good move to have just replaced the seals as long as I was right there and all.

What do you think?

:confused:
 
Depends on seal condition, we left the seals in when we did a rear disc conversion on my buddy's rig as they had never leaked in the past. They still don't. If you have seals on hand though I probably would replace them as cheap insurance.
 
Been a while since I got anything done on this project. Have had a million other things happening, though.

The advice seems be in favor of new seals, as long as I'm in there, so this morning, I pulled and replaced the rear axle seals. Tightened down the Poser brackets, now that I like the positioning. Also re-installed the rear pumpkin cover.

Next up is tombstone tabs and brake lines.
 
Worked on the hard lines today. The rear line is pretty well sorted out. Out of the master into the prop valve, then across the fire wall and down to the rear. The front line is not so easy. I am not sure of where to make the hard line to soft line transition. I'll post up pics later.
 
Had some old mini parts laying around. Welded a tab to this TEE...
DSC03265.jpg


Works like a champ
DSC03266.jpg


You can buy these cool mounts/clips/fittings from Summit pretty durn cheap. Used existing threaded hole locations from the previous single circuit mounting holes. Works well so far.
DSC03306.jpg
 
Here are a few links to the items in the Summit catalog. I couldn't find the exact fitting I used in the mount but the one at the bottom is close, minus the AN male end. It's a clean, secure way of mounting the hard line to the flex line.... if you decide to go aftermarket hardware etc... Hope this helps

Hurry up and let's wheeeeeeeeeelllllllll!!!

Russell Performance 683942 - Russell Brake Line Clamps - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Russell Performance 683941 - Russell Brake Line Clamps - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Aeroquip FBM2946 - Aeroquip Brake System Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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