Retro-inspired front bumper

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The Retroline Front Bumper — A Design Study — Building on and evolving the standard fabrication process.

This initially started as a design study. A bit of a deep dive into automotive design from different eras. Then when you start looking at almost every bumper, for every platform whether it be the 80, a Tacoma, a Bronco, or Wrangler - they all typically follow the same fabrication recipe. Few minor tweaks to all call it their own. I get it, it's mostly to simplify production, keep costs reasonable, and allow for scaling production. All the same playbook — cut some sheet metal, make some folds or weld a corner joint. Soon started thinking that having nothing but sharp corners and hard edges could be improved upon on aftermarket bumpers. I for one think the 80 is a bit iconic in my book and deserving of something better. I started wondering if OE automotive designers from yesteryear were given the technology, tools, and practices of today, how would they design an aftermarket bumper. This is my take on that, moving away from the standard recipe of sharp bends or welded joints.
The Billet Bumper Guards

After studying the lines of the OE 80 bumper — soft, rounded clean, and the 60 series — minimalistic with bumper caps/extensions at the corners, I took a look at other iconic vehicles leading up to this era. The Porsche 930, Datsun 240z — these had bumper guards. The implementation of these pretty much went away once we started introducing crumple zones into vehicles.

Bumper guards have had a long history, all the way back to the 1920's. In the 1950's they became an aesthetic statement, mimicking artillery shells and rocket fins, famously nicknamed "Dagmars". In the 70's they were then mostly made out of rubber to protect the main bumper from scrapes and light parking bumps. I wanted to implement this as a retro inspired feature, but how do I make it functional as well? Here's where the billet bumper guards serve as recovery points. 60mm thick bumper guards allowed for a hefty sized radius that was ultra smooth, specifically designed for soft shackles. For those keen on details, 60mm is the same thickness as the frame rails, and these bumper guards are mounted directly on the same vertical plane as the left and right frame. It works much similar to hitch recovery points like the Factor 55 Hitchlink Pro 2.0 and the Agency 6 Shackle Block, just implemented as a purposeful design element.

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To balance out the bumper visually, I took a 60 series design element. The bumper extensions, or bumper caps/ends as some might call, and implemented them into the modular wings. (Currently a 3d printed prototype is fitted, but production pieces will also be billet.)

Another period-correct inspiration was the bumper strips along the face of the modular wings. These are 3d printed CF-ASA and house an integrated Profile Pivot Sequential LED Strip that operate as white DRL and amber sequential turn signal when activated.

Lasers — From Cutting To Welding

Modular wings and main structure of the center section is 3/16" mild steel. Winch plate is 1/4" steel. Front removable/replaceable bash plate is 3/16" 5052 aluminum. Winch is mounted high to give space underneath for various heat exchangers(trans, oil, or even heat exchangers for w2a intercoolers). Multiple mounting provisions are built in, removable front bash plate gives easy access.

I wouldn't have pursued this as a product if it wasn't for laser welding. Many advantages over MIG and TIG. A laser runs in a "keyhole" mode — it focuses high amounts of energy into one tiny spot to dig a deep, narrow weld in a single pass — so we don't have to bevel or grind the edges to get full penetration like you would on a thicker MIG or TIG joint. That "keyhole also means significantly less heat affected zone(HAZ). It puts way less heat into the metal, so it doesn't warp and stays strong right next to the weld, the beads come out clean and consistent, and there's barely any grinding to clean up. Many top racing teams like Camburg Racing are making the switch to laser fabrication, after their tests show significantly stronger joints and requires much less labor time. The catch with laser is it wants parts that fit up tight and clean, but we use precision cut parts anyways, so that works in our favor. Prep, welding, and cleanup times all shrink — and reallocating that time into design, allowed me to not only come up with a much more elegant bumper without high-end bespoke restomod prices.

Form, Meet Function

"Form every follows function" - American Architect Louis Sullivan 1896 in his essay The Tall Office Building Artistically Considered.

None of this is complicated for the sake of it. The usual recipe sticks around because it's quick and easy to repeat, and most people never stop to question it. I did. If you imagine the designers of those old trucks and cars getting their hands on the tools we have now, our Retroline Front Bumper is the kind of thing that comes out — retro, inspired. If you're into the little details, you'll likely catch them.

Happy to answer any questions.

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Looks different. Unique for sure.

Some aspects I really like, some not so much.
Overall, looks really clean and definitely a lot of design went into it.

The proportions look good and suit the aesthetic of the OEM grill and body really well.
The centre section lines up with the grill above pretty well. Could have maybe gone slightly wider with the shackle blocks so the outer edge matches the line of the chrome bezel/ head light edge above, but it definitely doesn't look out of place.
The raw metal look fits with the chrome grill aesthetic.

I really like the look of the side wings at that height, they fit with the body lines/grill/ head lights really cleanly. Looks OEM.

Great high ground clearance. The winch looks nicely tucked away.
I like the bumperette shackle block idea. Looks clean, but functional too.

The side bars look nice, clean smooth lines, but it looks like you raided the rusty bolt bucket to bolt them to the center part.
OEM bumpers from back in the day used domed bolts, with nuts out of sight at the back. Button head fasteners would fit that aesthetic better.

The thin LED turn signals are clean, but kinda ultra modern, but still retro like a thin leather neck tie from the 80s.

Three side wings come up s little short IMO, literally and figuratuvely.
The length doesn't quite line up with the body lines.
If you were going for a retro oem style design, the squared off side bar caps don't quite nail it.
Looks kind of like you didn't know how to finish the end and slapped a cap on the end. A rounded end cap that was a little longer might have worked better with the rounded shape of an 80, which are very much a rounded brick. Not really square edges on anything.

Also not a fan of the flat belly pan with protruding fasteners, and square/flat edges on the belltpan.
I've had bumpers with a similar belly pan, and bolt heads get bent and mangled with contact with rocks, and flat edges get bent and dented. (Although, I doubt many bumpers like this will ever see rocks)
OEM fabrication could have had this pressed with radiused edges.

The design and fabrication and price tag are way beyond my capabilities, so take my $0.02 accordingly :hmm::lol:
 
I really like the design overall. I'm with @mudgudgeon, and am not a professional designer or fabricator, so take my observations with a grain of salt. I assume you didn't take the bumper out to meet the fender flares for ground clearance or bumper strength? It looks like it comes up short. The raw metal look comes across to me as an afterthought of design. Have you tried powder coated black or painted black? Thank you for designing this! It is good to have different options to choose from as an enthusiast.
 
Looks different. Unique for sure.

Some aspects I really like, some not so much.
Overall, looks really clean and definitely a lot of design went into it.

The proportions look good and suit the aesthetic of the OEM grill and body really well.
The centre section lines up with the grill above pretty well. Could have maybe gone slightly wider with the shackle blocks so the outer edge matches the line of the chrome bezel/ head light edge above, but it definitely doesn't look out of place.
The raw metal look fits with the chrome grill aesthetic.

I really like the look of the side wings at that height, they fit with the body lines/grill/ head lights really cleanly. Looks OEM.

Great high ground clearance. The winch looks nicely tucked away.
I like the bumperette shackle block idea. Looks clean, but functional too.

The side bars look nice, clean smooth lines, but it looks like you raided the rusty bolt bucket to bolt them to the center part.
OEM bumpers from back in the day used domed bolts, with nuts out of sight at the back. Button head fasteners would fit that aesthetic better.

The thin LED turn signals are clean, but kinda ultra modern, but still retro like a thin leather neck tie from the 80s.

Three side wings come up s little short IMO, literally and figuratuvely.
The length doesn't quite line up with the body lines.
If you were going for a retro oem style design, the squared off side bar caps don't quite nail it.
Looks kind of like you didn't know how to finish the end and slapped a cap on the end. A rounded end cap that was a little longer might have worked better with the rounded shape of an 80, which are very much a rounded brick. Not really square edges on anything.

Also not a fan of the flat belly pan with protruding fasteners, and square/flat edges on the belltpan.
I've had bumpers with a similar belly pan, and bolt heads get bent and mangled with contact with rocks, and flat edges get bent and dented. (Although, I doubt many bumpers like this will ever see rocks)
OEM fabrication could have had this pressed with radiused edges.

The design and fabrication and price tag are way beyond my capabilities, so take my $0.02 accordingly :hmm::lol:

I really like the design overall. I'm with @mudgudgeon, and am not a professional designer or fabricator, so take my observations with a grain of salt. I assume you didn't take the bumper out to meet the fender flares for ground clearance or bumper strength? It looks like it comes up short. The raw metal look comes across to me as an afterthought of design. Have you tried powder coated black or painted black? Thank you for designing this! It is good to have different options to choose from as an enthusiast.
Could definitely swap out to button head bolts on top of the bumper guards. Was thinking of putting some sort of cover to hide them a bit, but that's not a bad route.

Reason for the two harder edges on the bumper caps(the outer chamfer), was to balance out the sharp folds on the center section and spread out that design language visually. They were softer fillets originally, but felt the chamfer was better in the end to blend the winglet design to the center. Of course this is subjective.

Few reasons I didn't go full width. 1.) I've always felt the 80 silhouette from front view or back view felt long and skinny. Like a long face. Lifting the 80 exacerbates this silhouette. Much different than current SUV's that are much wider proportioned. The ≈90-95% width gives it a slight visual break, giving it a wider look. Quite subtle and it's one of those things you can't pinpoint why it looks a certain way, until you change it back. Many pre-runners don't run full width tubework, and if you compare a stubby bumper to a full width bumper on a Jeep, the one with the stubby bumper looks significantly wider even though it's the same. 2.) The bumper caps are modular. During the many month's in development shared on IG, the most common request was a bullbar/full hoop option. With an updated bumper cap design a full hoop can be integrated so that tubework can wrap around and over the corner light.

Might be hard to tell in the images, but the main structure of the body is powdercoated Prismatic Powders Forged Charcoal 2(gallery here), and a bit of a premium finish as it requires two coats. This is an optional upgrade to the standard satin black. If you've seen my previous bumper, you may get the idea that I'm a bit averse to the standard black, but I know it works for the majority. In early renders I always showed the bumper guards and caps as cerakote bronze, but the raw aluminum just went well with the center grill and headlight trim, so I kept it. Felt the raw aluminum was also a nice contrast to the rest of the bumper and another prerunner-esque element to mimic bolt-on cover plates in between tube work.

I'm not too aware of metal stamping that can do 3/16 steel, but even if, it's not feasible in ultra low batch production. Would be nice finish though and save me a bit of work.
 
I like it but far too narrow. Corners are most prone to a knock and the bumper offers no protection there. It needs to be the width of the flares.
 
I've had a full width bumper for about 8 years. My 80, has seen a good portion of the world, relative to others. Lived in New Zealand, did many trips spanning both the North and South Island and did a majority of the well known tracks there. Lived on both ends of Canada, Bay Area for a year and now in Austin, TX. I'm sure my experience is different than others, but till the day I took the old bumper off, there were no dents or any signs of impact on the corners.

In fact I challenge everyone to go look at a hundred 80 series Land Cruisers that have front armor, take a close look at their wings, and count how many have damage at the corners. What percentage do you actually see? You'll most likely only see a handful, and they tend to be some more extreme cases of rock crawlers. But even then, some pretty well known 80's here known for doing that type of terrain don't have any signs of impact to the front corner armor.

Try and binge on some of Stellar Built's YouTube and take a close look at all the rigs featured, I saw one Tacoma with corner and fender damage(there may be some that I missed). Even their own shop Tacoma has no front corner damage on their bumper. And in contrast to the rear, which has lots of visible signs of impact. This is same with the 80 rear bumpers you'll see with lots of abuse, due to the poor departure angle on these rigs. There's no magical force field barrier keeping all their front corner armor pristine 😁

Am I aware and acknowledge the concern, yes. Do I take data-gathering a step further and ask what is the probability in my use case(and maybe many others), definitely. My conclusion is we see such few examples of benefitting from full corner protection, and percentage is much lower than many people may realize. One instances where I think full corner protection is an absolute necessity is Australia's well known bog holes, but that's why it's common to see brush guards in the Aussie world. You really have to think about how long ago this conception was introduced, and take a look at rig capabilities now. Maybe if you're on 33"-35", stock offset, stock width tires, (as it was way back when) approach angle would definitely dictate the need for corner protection. Now 37's seem to be one of the most common, 38's popping up to replace 37's, and we do see a handful of 40" tires on these rigs, all needing high offsets, having larger width tires, and many people opting to push the front axle forward. So you end up having significantly higher approach angle and corners getting tucked in in relation to outside tire sidewall.

But hey what does a guy who did 15+ years of physics simulations for a creative industry, and went on to train muscle and skin dynamics for AI systems know... (I'm quite logic and data driven based). We can rely on heuristics, OR we can engage in system 2 thinking by gathering data and come up with our own conclusions, I always try and choose the latter. Definitely no problem if others form their own conclusions for their needs. Every use case is different, just offering another option :)

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What is the weight of the current design (w/o winch)?

Haven't gotten an official weight, but CAD properties showing about 115lbs with the billet components accounting for about 20lbs of that. Of course this is estimated.

Being modular, different length wings would be an easy option, no?
Relatively easy, yes. Two different routes to go, lengthening the steel winglets would require a new bumper cap design, or extending just the caps, like how the factory 60 series ones look would just be a larger piece.
 
Its the front left corner (US driver) of 80 that has a dent on mine. :hillbilly: Pretty much exactly the spot you are saying they don't get dented.
From the previous owner and that's also why I got it with no bumper and the wrong valence. In an ideal world I'd replace the valence with the correct one, and replace the fender, but neither keep the vehicle from functioning, and the bumper I have now covers the whole front end anyway.

I just personally don't like bumpers that hang out super far. Similar to your original bumper as well. I prefer ones that tuck the under the grill between the frame rails.
 
Big fan of this design. I think you nailed your goal of creating a bumper that fits the retro look of the 80.
 
I've had a full width bumper for about 8 years. My 80, has seen a good portion of the world, relative to others. Lived in New Zealand, did many trips spanning both the North and South Island and did a majority of the well known tracks there. Lived on both ends of Canada, Bay Area for a year and now in Austin, TX. I'm sure my experience is different than others, but till the day I took the old bumper off, there were no dents or any signs of impact on the corners.

In fact I challenge everyone to go look at a hundred 80 series Land Cruisers that have front armor, take a close look at their wings, and count how many have damage at the corners. What percentage do you actually see? You'll most likely only see a handful, and they tend to be some more extreme cases of rock crawlers. But even then, some pretty well known 80's here known for doing that type of terrain don't have any signs of impact to the front corner armor.

Try and binge on some of Stellar Built's YouTube and take a close look at all the rigs featured, I saw one Tacoma with corner and fender damage(there may be some that I missed). Even their own shop Tacoma has no front corner damage on their bumper. And in contrast to the rear, which has lots of visible signs of impact. This is same with the 80 rear bumpers you'll see with lots of abuse, due to the poor departure angle on these rigs. There's no magical force field barrier keeping all their front corner armor pristine 😁

Am I aware and acknowledge the concern, yes. Do I take data-gathering a step further and ask what is the probability in my use case(and maybe many others), definitely. My conclusion is we see such few examples of benefitting from full corner protection, and percentage is much lower than many people may realize. One instances where I think full corner protection is an absolute necessity is Australia's well known bog holes, but that's why it's common to see brush guards in the Aussie world. You really have to think about how long ago this conception was introduced, and take a look at rig capabilities now. Maybe if you're on 33"-35", stock offset, stock width tires, (as it was way back when) approach angle would definitely dictate the need for corner protection. Now 37's seem to be one of the most common, 38's popping up to replace 37's, and we do see a handful of 40" tires on these rigs, all needing high offsets, having larger width tires, and many people opting to push the front axle forward. So you end up having significantly higher approach angle and corners getting tucked in in relation to outside tire sidewall.

But hey what does a guy who did 15+ years of physics simulations for a creative industry, and went on to train muscle and skin dynamics for AI systems know... (I'm quite logic and data driven based). We can rely on heuristics, OR we can engage in system 2 thinking by gathering data and come up with our own conclusions, I always try and choose the latter. Definitely no problem if others form their own conclusions for their needs. Every use case is different, just offering another option :)

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Different places, different people, different uses. We can just leave it at that I guess. :) Personally a front bumper that does not protect the corners AND does not have full frontal coverage (Old school ARB style) is a non starter in my world. This is based on personal experience over the last 40+ years using the rigs on and off road, on and off trail in Alaska. Ditches and holes, ledges, creek and river banks, brush (light and heavy), icy roads and more rigs larger than an '80 to impact than smaller ones, Moose (yep, I've hit a couple and seen a lot hit) caribou and bison. I've had full bumpers leave me with virtually zero damage after smacking 1500 LBS bulls. I had a "mini-bumper" leave my FJ62 totaled and dead on the Alcan 700 miles from home after a moose encounter. I've bent "not heavy duty enough" bumpers into fenders and tires. I've had heavy ones glance off of trees and push my front end back where it needed to be. I've seen a full sized truck towed to the junkyard after hitting an ARB equipped '80 head on... as the '80 drove home.

My full on trail rig is a SBC powered '40 on 45 inch ags with a bit over 275:1 "stupid low range" ultimate gearing. The front bumper on this one is a section of 5 inch C channel that just barely extends past the frame and it's main reason for being there is to mount the winch. Not worried about hitting other rigs on icy roads that it never sees and any animal that I (routinely) encounter on the trail is just gonna be a staring contest at the most. :) Getting the tires onto any obstacle (including a pure vertical ledge that is actually higher than the bumper is a requirement. (the front tires actually extend further than the bumper even).

But my '80s all wear a lot more bumper. ARB or similar. For the road and trail use that they see, for me, nothing less in terms of frontal coverage is acceptable. Another, less important but still important consideration for me is the ability to mount lights *in a protected location* is very important. Lots of long dark nights in these parts and lots of long dark highways. Big Lights Matter. I smacked a moose last year with an ARB equipped '80. 45 MPH and (only) about 1000 lbs of cow stepped in between me and the rig I was following. Following CLOSE. It was amazing that she even managed to get between us. I think she was suicidal because she literally stood there until he passed and then LEAPED off the snow berm in front of me. Killed her. Killed her good. Well, actually had to put her down with the 10mm but she was gonna die there regardless. Just slowly with a broken spine, leg and who knows what else. :(
Sheared some of the mounting bolts for the bumper and it tipped back a tiny bit, but no damage to the rig, minimal, minimal, MINIMAL to the bumper... and the 9 inch driving lights in front of the grill were undamaged as well. Good lights can be spendy as hell. I felt bad for her... but I would have felt worse if the rig had suffered damage too.

Anyway... there is no one bumper that it perfect for every rig in every environment under every use for every driver.

I knows what I likes and I likes what I knows. ;)


Mark...
 
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I’m in the extreme group but the first thing I thought was the wings are to short.
My bumper had been painted at least 5 times in 10 years so looking at pictures doesn’t really tell a true story.
 
I think I've already mentioned if you're in the need for full protection, lot's of readily available options are already out there. This is just something different for a particular group of 80 owners.

I did physics simulations for over 15 years, so I'm fully aware(better than most people on mud to be frank) of what situations warrant the need for wider protection. I also know that the average 80 on 33's or 35's on a 2" lift is likely to have more concerns than one on 38x13.5 on a wider track width and 4"+ lift height. Considering approach angles, bumper width to outside-to-outside track width ratio, etc., - then also consider type of terrain you frequent. I'm not saying so much that it'll never happen, I'm just cognizant of "the sum of it's parts"(as an analogy) situations that may validate the concerns for damage.

We're unfortunately in a world where the average "offroader" is overbuilt for a weekend of camping in a developed campground. I've lived in my cruiser for over 3 weeks exploring New Zealand, in much less gear than what everyone's saying "we need", or "I can't do that without this gear".

I also don't think a rock crawler with panels beat up is looking for a "Retroline bumper" :rofl: , since that same person isn't likely into the details of how this came to be or the historical automotive design features I tried to incorporate - though there's a few. It really just has to speak to you, as with everything I try to focus on. We have a $9k brake system that's out of reach for maybe 95-99% of mud members, but it is by far the best system out that is properly engineered as if an OEM or motorsport team approached the 80 brake system. Not a fabricator who has limited knowledge on how brake systems work, and just thinks: "Big front calipers, put it on. Oh now we need big master cylinder!"(they cancel each other out in case you didn't know - bigger master cylinder decreases line pressure given the same pedal pressure applied, but now think about what that decreased line pressure just did to stock rears...). An official guarantee is that nothing remotely comes close to our braking performance. Lot's of videos of testing have been shared to prove it all. It's much needed when many 80 rigs are approaching 7000lbs and a few even going quite over. Now we're also seeing more 80's with engine swaps or turbo kits getting installed. What I'm getting at is that I'm more focused in bespoke/boutique products.

Our customers also know that because of this, they can have something uniquely built to them. I'm just finishing up a one-of-one front and rear brake system for a client with a fully built engine utilizing exotic titanium rods if that helps give an idea of what I'm mostly focused on catering to.
 
Sound Like you’re on the wrong venue 😉
 
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