Replacing body mounts with a full set of new factory ones (no lift).

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Taking it off, no. Lifting it off, yes, just like the 80; as long as we're talking about a Land Cruiser and not a Lexus. The hydraulic lift system complicates things a bit; still doable, but not as straightforward. You just have to be more careful about where you lift and how much.

The live axle in the rear needs to be strapped to the springs, or it'll extend forever. I used a 6x6 across the rear cargo area (I just happen to have one that's exactly the full width of the cargo area), with straps to the rear seat anchors, and a midpoint lift for my engine hoist, to get the rear corners high enough to remove the corner bushings. I'm sure the same will work with the 100 series. You can get all but the front corner bushings out with just this one lift point.

Some people like to use the mid seat seatbelt anchors and lift one side completely, using a hoist through the rear door, then move and do the other side. That's twice the work for the same benefit, IMHO.

FWIW, it is the Lexus LX470 that I have, and it does have AHC.

The notes from the shop say: REPLACE BROKEN FRAME MOUNTS BEHIND THE FRONT WHEELS AND AT THE VERY REAR OF THE BODY TO FRAME MOUNTS ( THIS INCLUDES ALL NEEDED REMOVAL AS NEEDED FOR BRAKE LINES, FUEL LINES, A/C SYSTEM AND SO ON ) ( THIS LABOR MAY GO UP OR DOWN )

...I'm not including their quote for labor, but it's extremely high. And to be fair to them, they recommended I check with some other shops, particularly body shops, as they believe I could save money that way.

I just didn't want to be "that guy" and reply to them (or other shops) by telling them I found some internet links that say that removing all that stuff isn't necessary.
 
FWIW, it is the Lexus LX470 that I have, and it does have AHC.

The notes from the shop say: REPLACE BROKEN FRAME MOUNTS BEHIND THE FRONT WHEELS AND AT THE VERY REAR OF THE BODY TO FRAME MOUNTS ( THIS INCLUDES ALL NEEDED REMOVAL AS NEEDED FOR BRAKE LINES, FUEL LINES, A/C SYSTEM AND SO ON ) ( THIS LABOR MAY GO UP OR DOWN )

...I'm not including their quote for labor, but it's extremely high. And to be fair to them, they recommended I check with some other shops, particularly body shops, as they believe I could save money that way.

I just didn't want to be "that guy" and reply to them (or other shops) by telling them I found some internet links that say that removing all that stuff isn't necessary.
I see bolts with no nuts and whole mounts that look ok from here. On the 80 series nothing has to be disconnected in order to raise the body enough, one side at a time, to replace the mounts/isolators. I did my own in a day.

Beyond this I can’t offer anything except the encouragement to tackle the job yourself. It’s very basic.
 
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The hydraulic suspension has fiddly little sensor thingys attached everywhere. Very PITA.

I just replaced body bushings for a customer whose right number 2 mount was totally rusted away. In order to fix that, the body would have to come off the frame; there's just not enough room to work there and do a good job. We agreed to leave it be, until it fell off, and then address it. Maybe not the best idea, but it was a new to him truck and he wanted to drive it. I didn't blame him a bit.

That is going to be a lot of money. Someday.
 
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