Replacement Keys 1999 Land Cruiser
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Just curious, but if we know the design is weak on these keys why are you guys buying more that may just break in the future... I'm not the guy selling them so I don't give a crap either way, but the stronger design of the FJ Cruiser key was a no-brainer for me since it fits our internals from the OEM LC key/fob.
It sure looks like the same button layout as the LC fob. If you say the LC module fits thats good news. Cant really see the key blade in detail. Is that the same profile as the LC blade? Can an LC key be cut on that blade, and work?
Yes, same profile, everything goes into the shell with no problem. I had it cut by a local locksmith and it works in all lock cylanders, including the glove box. Another user on amazon was nice enough to put up those pics in detail of where the ceramic like chip goes as well. It's like an upgrade meant for us LC owners... but I'm apparently one of the very few using this fob. I love it and no more worries about breaking the key, even when carelessly turning it it feels very solid. Plus it's fun to play with
Yes, same profile, everything goes into the shell with no problem. I had it cut by a local locksmith and it works in all lock cylanders, including the glove box. Another user on amazon was nice enough to put up those pics in detail of where the ceramic like chip goes as well. It's like an upgrade meant for us LC owners... but I'm apparently one of the very few using this fob. I love it and no more worries about breaking the key, even when carelessly turning it it feels very solid. Plus it's fun to play with
Crap! I wish I would've seen or noticed this before I bought my used OEM! So the FJCruiser remote key works with the 100 series internals? And the remote casing is MUCH stronger than the 100 series OEM? If so, this has to get into the FAQ somewhere
That's what I'm saying, everyone needs to know about this IMO. I'll post some pics up in a second, but ya it's everything that you'd expect, for $14. It's really solid feeling in my hand, and when turning in a cylinder. The only thing that should be noted, is that you have to twist the two shells a couple turns to get the spring loaded action to work right on reassembly. Replacing the battery when you assemble it will save you from doing it when a used battery wears out sooner than a new one.
EDIT: Here's some pics:
Yep. Now I'm going to have to get one of those.
I searched 'Fj cruiser key OEM' on eBay and nothing came up that looks like that. Any help? Am I using the wrong keywords?
Now you're talking! That would be awesome! I have no idea where to even start on something like that but if you're looking for group buy numbers, count me in for two.
I did find the FJCruiser keys on eBay, had to include 'flip' with the keywords.
I don't think it will be that hard. You'll need a mold (easy) and a press. I'll make a few calls tomorrow. No clue on pricing, but I'd assume I would need quite a few to make it worth my time and the shops time.
Would the hinged key mechanism be tricky to fabricate? Guess you'd need a source for the matching key blanks as well. I like the idea of a billet keyfob but the devil is in those damn details.
Elijah, the link was above, but here it is again:
http://www.amazon.com/Buttons-Folding-Remote-Toyota-Cruiser/dp/B007GJ1UIE/?tag=ihco-20
I think it would be really easy for me to migrate my metal parts (key, button and spring) out of this into a custom metal casing as long as it was the same design. There's just a couple fins on the inside to keep the remote and ceramic chip in place.
What the what? For $15, who cares?
What the what? For $15, who cares?
That's what I'm saying... can't go wrong with either key design for $15, but this one seems a lot stronger to me, and nifty to boot.
Looks like a nice durable solution, and at $15 its a no-brainer. Just ordered one - thanks for the link Andrew!
I might be selling my shelf stock of new key shells with uncut blades soon
I might be selling my shelf stock of new key shells with uncut blades soon
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Haha there you go, I'm thinking I may snag another just to hang on to as well.
OK, if you go the flip key route, here's what I've learned...
Not all flip keys are the same, mainly due to the orientation of the 3-button "pod" that goes in the shell. There is a key available on e-bay (thanks to MUD member Lost African) under seller name and description:
superpowersale999
"Flip Folding Remote Key Shell Case For Toyota FJ Land Cruiser Camry 3BT T0289"
that is the correct orientation. This is a "drop-in" solution to the weak-key shell, and only requires you to swap the electronics module, and get the key cut. (some local hardware store's key cutters were not able to grasp the flip key correctly - I ended up at a locksmith for $10
.)
The Amazon key didn't work out-of-the-box on my '04. The security light would not stop blinking and it would crank, but not start. Clearly the transponder was not close enough to the ring antenna to disable the immobilizer. BUT it appears that the Amazon key can be made to work if you disassemble the glued-together casing of the 3-button electronics to relocate the transponder closer to the ignition switch. Some owners reported in the "What have you done this week..." thread that their casing that houses the battery was coming apart already, thus making it much easier to relocate the transponder. Not sure how destructive an x-acto knife on the key internals might be...
Not all flip keys are the same, mainly due to the orientation of the 3-button "pod" that goes in the shell. There is a key available on e-bay (thanks to MUD member Lost African) under seller name and description:
superpowersale999
"Flip Folding Remote Key Shell Case For Toyota FJ Land Cruiser Camry 3BT T0289"
that is the correct orientation. This is a "drop-in" solution to the weak-key shell, and only requires you to swap the electronics module, and get the key cut. (some local hardware store's key cutters were not able to grasp the flip key correctly - I ended up at a locksmith for $10
.)The Amazon key didn't work out-of-the-box on my '04. The security light would not stop blinking and it would crank, but not start. Clearly the transponder was not close enough to the ring antenna to disable the immobilizer. BUT it appears that the Amazon key can be made to work if you disassemble the glued-together casing of the 3-button electronics to relocate the transponder closer to the ignition switch. Some owners reported in the "What have you done this week..." thread that their casing that houses the battery was coming apart already, thus making it much easier to relocate the transponder. Not sure how destructive an x-acto knife on the key internals might be...
Oh nice, now I understand what you were saying in the 'what have you done this week thread'. Interesting that mine worked for me. I think it was just that my remote was all jacked up and I was able to get the chip out. The one that you're saying is no bueno though is the one that I am using, and there is a slot for the chip in the very front right up by the flip button, thus it's close enough to the immobilizer!