I'm replacing lower ball joints boot with a kit from the dealer. I put the included grease on the cleaned ball joint stem. Then I slipped on the new boot.
Next comes the wire which is coiled up?
Do I just slip it on?
Or do I wrap and twist tie?
The old wire was more of a band and spring like tension around boot. Whereas this new wire from the kit is round and flexible with no spring like tension.
Wrap it around twice (I think) and twist the ends up like a twisty tie tight enough to make a good water tight seal. Clip the excess ends off leaving about 3/8". Then bend it out of the way. Rotate the ware and boot to provide the best clearance of the clipped wire end and boot during suspension travel so the end doesn't poke a hole in the boot.
I think I took pics of mine but I'm at work right now. I'll check tonight and post if I have them.
Wrap it around twice (I think) and twist the ends up like a twisty tie tight enough to make a good water tight seal. Clip the excess ends off leaving about 3/8". Then bend it out of the way. Rotate the ware and boot to provide the best clearance of the clipped wire end and boot during suspension travel so the end doesn't poke a hole in the boot.
I think I took pics of mine but I'm at work right now. I'll check tonight and post if I have them.
This is what I'm thinking. Although I don't think I can get around twice and twist easily. Without starching it, as it rest with only a ~1/4 inch overlap.
Would placing twisted end to rear be best? Would this be least pinch area (out of way) with ACH system?
This would also be less likely to snag road debris.
I could just used the old springy wire that came off, but it's 16 years old and seen better days.
I don't get why dealer kit didn't include same spring loaded wire.
Ive got the kit in front of me, hadn't got to opening it up. Yeah seems the wire supplied is simply a small coil of wire to use secure the boot as a twist tie method like Badlander posted. If thats that case its like wiring a set of grips to dirt bike handlebars. It may not require 2 wraps around to properly secure it but if you wanted a longer wire, .032 ( or close) stainless wire would work. (Twist too much and the wire will snap.) Cut off excess wire to a 1/4" nub and push it back down flush against the wire so it doesn't protrude.
Strange thing on mine is that they started leaking from the small end where there is nothing securing the boot. Started after I jacked up the front end a few times changing out the shocks, and they started dribbling grease. Does the small end of the boot just rest on the end of the ball joint or is the boot pressed over some ridge on the joint?
Strange thing on mine is that they started leaking from the small end where there is nothing securing the boot. Started after I jacked up the front end a few times changing out the shocks, and they started dribbling grease. Does the small end of the boot just rest on the end of the ball joint or is the boot pressed over some ridge on the joint?
Just kind of rest there. It's normal to see grease seepage. I changes do to tear in boot rubber letting out all boot & stem grease. Ball joint checks out good and has different grease in it's ball area, which looks clean.
I think they went to the wire wrap is because the oem spring coil thing is a PITA to try to get on while all greasy without messing something up like stretching it all out of shape or poking holes in the boot, etc. Easy to get off but very hard to get back on. I wouldn't want to have to deal with that out in the "outback" somewhere. The plain wire is ultra simple, quick, and effective. Just my thoughts on it......
